Polishing a SS joint
- Thread starter Ched
- Start date
A cue maker. They'll polish it on a lathe.
I would post this in the cue makers forum.
For my own, I don't mess with it beyond wiping it down. I would be concerned that polishing compounds could damage the adjacent finish.
Example:
I had a cue that had the wrap cleaned by an amateur. Whatever they used got into the finish of the forearm. It didn't lift the finish, it turned a hazy, milky, kind of whitish for about a quarter inch adjacent to the wrap in the finish of the forearm. Required a refinish, and a re-wrap since we had no idea what kind of stuff might have been in the wrap that could potentially damage the new finish or interfere with it in some way. I suppose it was some kind of solvent. Not too big of a deal, right? Yeah, until you consider there is a signature on that forearm...then you better hope he is still alive and working on cues...
Personally, I prefer that amateur work not be done on cues of any value. I know a lot, I have studied cue making and repair for years, but I still don't mess with my own beyond replacing tips. But I would never, ever, entertain even replacing just a tip on somebody else's cue. Studying is no replacement for experience.
I respect the cue makers and highly suggest you ask them about this.
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Strongly agree,
CUE NEEDS TO BE IN A LATHE...
"Only takes 5-10 minutes-
See a local cue maker
"Only takes 5-10 minutes-
See a local cue maker
Yep. Nothing like a good radial grind.
What is that?
word to the wise - ty.
If you are not all thumbs, and you think your stainless steel joint does not have quite that polish you want, there are some thing you can do.
First, tape right below the steel. Masking tape ok, but I think Scotch Freezer Tape is much better.
Then, get yourself a jewelry cloth, often called a sunshine cloth, and buff the joint by hand. Obviously, you have taped the finish so you don't go onto it.
By the way, for 99%, I do agree that a cue repairman is best, but I am not all thumbs, and I have seen too many lathe jobs where too much material was taken off, whether ferrule, joint, you name it.
How much of a do it yourselfer is up to you. And if you do, you'd better have patience, and you'd better be good.
All the best,
WW
First, tape right below the steel. Masking tape ok, but I think Scotch Freezer Tape is much better.
Then, get yourself a jewelry cloth, often called a sunshine cloth, and buff the joint by hand. Obviously, you have taped the finish so you don't go onto it.
By the way, for 99%, I do agree that a cue repairman is best, but I am not all thumbs, and I have seen too many lathe jobs where too much material was taken off, whether ferrule, joint, you name it.
How much of a do it yourselfer is up to you. And if you do, you'd better have patience, and you'd better be good.
All the best,
WW
If the joint has scratches (which most do) I usually use some 2000 grit wet sand at a high speed ( the water keeps the heat from friction down as to not heat the joint and possible loosen epoxy) and then use polishing compound for a final buff (comes out like a mirror) ....this is done on the lathe with the joint collar section blue taped...if the finish near the joint is thin or chipped in anyway I put a layer of white plumbers tape and then blue tape to make sure no moisture gets in to joint collar or under finish
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