Porter cable 7310 router mount

ken ken quarter

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Anyone have a simple way to horizontally mount ths router on a Logan 11x36 to cut rings and to cut live tooling threads? I'm sure it is an easy fix but I'm blank tonight...Pic's...drawings or links would be greatly accepted by this 83 year old qsmith here at Q-Spot billiads in Tulsa,OK.Don't do PM's but understand email qspot@tulsacoxmail.com.
Thanks,
Ken Ken Quarters
 
The following links are what I did for my Cuesmith but it is far from simple. Alignment is so critical and such a pain in the ars, I went with a dedicted setup.

I bought a second carriage from Chris that is 1" lower since a PC router will not fit normally. I bought a dedicated router for that carriage. I bought a dedicated mandrel and cutoff saw blade from KJ. I then designed a fabricated a V block for mounting.

Every PC router has machined corners that nest in the V block. I have dowels in the bottom of the block that pick up on the cross slide T slots. I could take this on and off but why bother. I already had the rear bed extension coupler, again thanks to Chris, so I made a little bracket to attach an indicator for travel.

Now my setup is nothing. Chuck up the material. slide on the carriage. Slide on the indicator. Cut my rings. Set it back on my shelf when done.

http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 1.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 2.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 3.JPG

See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet. Now I'm cutting all my own rings, not just stitch rings. I got a lot of positive input from the major contriutors to this website in order to think this through and do it right the first time. Lets keep that going.
 
Anyone have a simple way to horizontally mount ths router on a Logan 11x36 to cut rings and to cut live tooling threads? I'm sure it is an easy fix but I'm blank tonight...Pic's...drawings or links would be greatly accepted by this 83 year old qsmith here at Q-Spot billiads in Tulsa,OK.Don't do PM's but understand email qspot@tulsacoxmail.com.
Thanks,
Ken Ken Quarters

First things first what kind of tool post are you useing on the lathe?? On my lathe I have a quick change tool post and the easiest thing for me to do was just mount some square stock on the side of the router. Then just mount it in the one of my tool posts adjust the height and I was off and running..
 
The following links are what I did for my Cuesmith but it is far from simple. Alignment is so critical and such a pain in the ars, I went with a dedicted setup.

I bought a second carriage from Chris that is 1" lower since a PC router will not fit normally. I bought a dedicated router for that carriage. I bought a dedicated mandrel and cutoff saw blade from KJ. I then designed a fabricated a V block for mounting.

Every PC router has machined corners that nest in the V block. I have dowels in the bottom of the block that pick up on the cross slide T slots. I could take this on and off but why bother. I already had the rear bed extension coupler, again thanks to Chris, so I made a little bracket to attach an indicator for travel.

Now my setup is nothing. Chuck up the material. slide on the carriage. Slide on the indicator. Cut my rings. Set it back on my shelf when done.

http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 1.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 2.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 3.JPG

See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet. Now I'm cutting all my own rings, not just stitch rings. I got a lot of positive input from the major contriutors to this website in order to think this through and do it right the first time. Lets keep that going.

Dano,

I've told you before that I liked your set-up and I haven't changed that opinion.
I can tell from your cut rings that you're getting pretty damn close to true.
When you can thin one off @ .010", you've got the nuts.

I appreciate your business and seeing this is equally rewarding. :smile: :cool: :wink:
 
Dano, what a great setup, are you building them?
 
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Dano, what a great setup, are you building them?

I'm just a squirrel trying to find a nut. I did a detailed drawing of the block, then had it fabricated by a close friend. I work closely with fabrication companies at my "real" job. If you want, I can get you a cost for the block by itself. Send me a pm if anyone is serious?

Now lets get back to solving Ken's problem.
 
Thanks everybody...Joe Baker pushed my think button for a simple five minute fix. My standard mount is a piece of 1/2x2x8 alum bar bent into an "L" with a 2" and a 6" leg...mill a 3/8" wide x3" long slot on the 6" leg to accept a modifyed cap screw holding the router in an upright position when the 2" leg is clamped into the QCTP. Drilled a 3/8" hole in the 2" leg ...clamped 6" leg horizontally with 2"leg pointing down...insert modifiyed cap screw through hole and screw into mounting thread of the router...mount holder on QCTP and center the router axis to the chuck and square it up by rotating the QCTP body. Rock solid no vibes ... cut several biskets using KJ's mandrel and saw with less than 0.001" thickness variation.Thanks again for all your feedback.
Ken Ken Quarters
 
I like DanoO's setup- thanks for sharing.
It seems that the setup mounted directly on the carriage would be more solid (less prone to any movement or vibration) than one hanging out of a toolpost. I would think that would be necessary for really thin rings.
I'd like to hear feedback from folks who do it either way.
 
router setup for rings etc

The following links are what I did for my Cuesmith but it is far from simple. Alignment is so critical and such a pain in the ars, I went with a dedicted setup.

I bought a second carriage from Chris that is 1" lower since a PC router will not fit normally. I bought a dedicated router for that carriage. I bought a dedicated mandrel and cutoff saw blade from KJ. I then designed a fabricated a V block for mounting.

Every PC router has machined corners that nest in the V block. I have dowels in the bottom of the block that pick up on the cross slide T slots. I could take this on and off but why bother. I already had the rear bed extension coupler, again thanks to Chris, so I made a little bracket to attach an indicator for travel.

Now my setup is nothing. Chuck up the material. slide on the carriage. Slide on the indicator. Cut my rings. Set it back on my shelf when done.

http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 1.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 2.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 3.JPG

See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet. Now I'm cutting all my own rings, not just stitch rings. I got a lot of positive input from the major contriutors to this website in order to think this through and do it right the first time. Lets keep that going.

Great setup. Really helps to see these things. Keep up the great work
and know you're helping a lot of people.
Bill
 
Very nice set up DanO!!!!!!!!!!
The following links are what I did for my Cuesmith but it is far from simple. Alignment is so critical and such a pain in the ars, I went with a dedicted setup.

I bought a second carriage from Chris that is 1" lower since a PC router will not fit normally. I bought a dedicated router for that carriage. I bought a dedicated mandrel and cutoff saw blade from KJ. I then designed a fabricated a V block for mounting.

Every PC router has machined corners that nest in the V block. I have dowels in the bottom of the block that pick up on the cross slide T slots. I could take this on and off but why bother. I already had the rear bed extension coupler, again thanks to Chris, so I made a little bracket to attach an indicator for travel.

Now my setup is nothing. Chuck up the material. slide on the carriage. Slide on the indicator. Cut my rings. Set it back on my shelf when done.

http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 1.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 2.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 3.JPG

See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet. Now I'm cutting all my own rings, not just stitch rings. I got a lot of positive input from the major contriutors to this website in order to think this through and do it right the first time. Lets keep that going.
 
The following links are what I did for my Cuesmith but it is far from simple. Alignment is so critical and such a pain in the ars, I went with a dedicted setup.

I bought a second carriage from Chris that is 1" lower since a PC router will not fit normally. I bought a dedicated router for that carriage. I bought a dedicated mandrel and cutoff saw blade from KJ. I then designed a fabricated a V block for mounting.

Every PC router has machined corners that nest in the V block. I have dowels in the bottom of the block that pick up on the cross slide T slots. I could take this on and off but why bother. I already had the rear bed extension coupler, again thanks to Chris, so I made a little bracket to attach an indicator for travel.

Now my setup is nothing. Chuck up the material. slide on the carriage. Slide on the indicator. Cut my rings. Set it back on my shelf when done.

http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 1.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 2.JPG
http://www.timocues.com/Cues/Stitch ring 3.JPG

See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet. Now I'm cutting all my own rings, not just stitch rings. I got a lot of positive input from the major contriutors to this website in order to think this through and do it right the first time. Lets keep that going.

By George, I think he's got it.

You are absolutely correct, "Alignment is so critical".
It can take some time in your setup to get your alignment on the money but once you do, it's like a laser through butter. Well worth the effort.

"See that, no burn. Alignment is dead nuts on the billet."
You took the time to do it right. You have earned your success.
 
I think we got a little bit lost on this thread. No doubt that the setup for the Hightower lathe is awesome, but I also have a Enco 13x40 and I do have the vertical setup for a BXA QCTP and would love to get a setup for having the router in a horizontal position to cut rings as well.
 
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Does this help?

These pics were taken of the setup I use on my 12X36 import lathe with QR toolpost. The holder is simple and you can see there is a little shoulder milled into mounting block to locate the router and keep it from pivoting on the mounting bolt screwed into the router. Really just need a small piece of soft steel or aluminum to make your own on a mill. If you make the holder long enough to extend to the plastic body of the router you can clamp the body to the block with a large hose clamp, I saw someone here on AZ did that, i just do not find I need to do that extra step.
The well made holder shown in an earlier post, for use on a Hightower lathe is really not needed when using a stout metal lathe. I have no problem cutting paper thin rings with this setup. The blade used is solid carbide from (EBay) Korea, Less than $15 shipped to me, and the arbor is home made on this same lathe, runs very true.
 

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May as well post the vertical mount too

Again, no rocket science here. I used an old hold down clamp as the stock to machine this mount for my router. I have used it to cut shafts using a four wing cutter before buying my awesome taper shaper from Joe Baker.
 

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