Predator Joint pin removal

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
So, a customer had a moment of stupidity and slammed their $1400 predator cue and bent the uniloc pin. I have removed many of them in the past, and took my small induction heater and started to heat it. The SS collar started to get hot almost immediately at the same pace of the pin. I have done this many times with a SS collar and it never got hot, they get warm after the heat transfers, but not hot, at this speed. Asking the more knowledgeable people out there, is this one of those joints that the pin is actually part of the SS collar? I do not want to go further until I know that I will not destroy the joint.
Dave
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Wow. I have done quite a few, but I have never seen a Uni-Loc collar/pin combo, like the McDermott QR pin.
But it would not surprise me at all if it is, Predator seems to enjoy making life hard for us repair men.
 
Was the joint screw brass colored before you heated it??
If so, it's a titanium screw. I haven't seen Predator do a one piece joint and joint screw yet. I guess anything is possible but to date, unlikely.
If the joint got hot, I would be concerned about the epoxy break down.
 
Likely a titanium joint pin, so the titanium will not heat as easily as the SS due to their thermal resistivity differences. You can use the induction heater method only if you place a non-conductive shield in front of the joint collar.

Otherwise use some aluminum foil shielding in front of the collar, as it will dissipate heat well, and a propane torch set very low aimed at the tip of the joint pin. Good luck!
 
Kim Bye said:
The extra long wrap groove, the extra deep wrap groove and painted on points to mention a few things.
Click to expand...
Good point.
Longer wrap groove isn't to bad. The dept of the wrap channel because of the rubber wrap thickness, is bad for any cue. I haven't seen a straight butt older than a year old yet.
The rest.
You just have to know when to say..... No!
 
Michael Webb said:
Was the joint screw brass colored before you heated it??
If so, it's a titanium screw. I haven't seen Predator do a one piece joint and joint screw yet. I guess anything is possible but to date, unlikely.
If the joint got hot, I would be concerned about the epoxy break down.
Click to expand...
Yes, it is brass colored, would it be better to cut, then drill it out? I haven't worked with titanium yet, so what drills work the best? The collar got hot, but not to hot to touch, I stopped as soon as I felt it getting hot. I always leave my fingers on the collar area to feel for the heat transfer. Thanks for all the replies, really appreciate it.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Yes, it is brass colored, would it be better to cut, then drill it out? I haven't worked with titanium yet, so what drills work the best? The collar got hot, but not to hot to touch, I stopped as soon as I felt it getting hot. I always leave my fingers on the collar area to feel for the heat transfer. Thanks for all the replies, really appreciate it.
Dave
Click to expand...
All the brass colored ones wete Titanium. I've heated it with a torch and removed them, I've also drilled one out in steps.
If you have to cut it and drill it out, get a new joint screw from Unique products. It will save you from plugging the hole because the shank on thier version is bigger.
Hope this helps.
 

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UPDATE: Removed the pin, had to cut and drill it as the heat seemed to transfer to the collar too fast. Drilled like butter but had to bore and plug the hole. Shaft insert was the same....heated it but wouldn't budge and didn't want to damage the CF shaft. I am finishing it up today and will post some pictures later.
Thanks for the help.
Dave
 
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