Predator P2 wrap install..

[Newton]

I have just updated my web so sorry for just posting the link and not repeating
it all here in several posts.
But is there any one which has done the same exercise?

What did you think about the "leather grip" installed and how did you remove
the stuff under the plastic?

My first "encounter" with it:
http://www.kendocues.com/Websted/Cue_repair.html

Kent

 

[KJ Cues]

Hi Kent,
I think that by telling you how I cut a wrap groove on a cue that's never had a wrap, will probably answer a lot of your questions.
You can install the cue in the lathe, forearm in the chuck with a collet/bushing of course, with the butt end at the tail-stock live center.
Using a dial indicator, set your compound to the same taper as the body of the cue. I always try to work towards the chuck so I start with an 'AR' carbide bit. Select a point on the cue where you would like the wrap to start and advance into the work. The cue is spinning of course. Now with the compound, advance the cut towards the chuck. Your compound will travel 3-4 inches (75-100mm) before you have to stop and 'reset' it back to the beginning of it's travel. You'll need to do this maybe 4 times to cut a wrap groove of 12" long. Change bits to an 'AL' and square the groove at the butt-end where you started. Clean-up your wrap groove with sandpaper and you're done.

I believe the Predator wrap that you were referring to was called the 'Ultra' leather wrap.
It was scary thick.

 

[Newton]

Hi Kent,
I think that by telling you how I cut a wrap groove on a cue that's never had a wrap, will probably answer a lot of your questions.
You can install the cue in the lathe, forearm in the chuck with a collet/bushing of course, with the butt end at the tail-stock live center.
Using a dial indicator, set your compound to the same taper as the body of the cue. I always try to work towards the chuck so I start with an 'AR' carbide bit. Select a point on the cue where you would like the wrap to start and advance into the work. The cue is spinning of course. Now with the compound, advance the cut towards the chuck. Your compound will travel 3-4 inches (75-100mm) before you have to stop and 'reset' it back to the beginning of it's travel. You'll need to do this maybe 4 times to cut a wrap groove of 12" long. Change bits to an 'AL' and square the groove at the butt-end where you started. Clean-up your wrap groove with sandpaper and you're done.

I believe the Predator wrap that you were referring to was called the 'Ultra' leather wrap.
It was scary thick.

Hi KJ,
Good to hear from you.
WRT the setup/method you mentioned, this was my plan when I finally receive my own big bore lathe. Actually, the exact same method was my idea on restoring a crapy "Balabushka" - Asian - Adam cue I have had lying around for a long time. The idea was to test out with the alu-ultra-sharp inserts we discussed some time back, and try to peal the finnish of in stead of a never ending sanding operation.
Hopefully I'm able to put up the cue with a accurate enough setup so I can carefully resurface the cue for a new finish.

However at the moment I don't have a large lathe to work with, so I have made my self a "wrap-lathe-machine" which can handle the full length of the butt. However, I have not installed any X/Y coordinate table on this machine so I'm not able to perform a controlled cut on this machine....

My method on this P2 was to use a carpet knife and slowly rotate the whole butt and at the same time slowly cutting with the carpet knife - very much lying horizontally. It was a amazing amount of thickness in this "wrap" so I was really surprised when I first cut down to the wood. It was thick.

I would guess a sharp cutter in the lathe (when it has arrived) would make it possible to turn this "handle" off, but I would expect that the alu-cutting bit would be needed.

It is for sure not a job I would do all over again - in this "manual" way. I would search for a X/Y table to mount on the "wrap-setup" and possibly try to cut the next wrap using you're method

Thank's
Kent