Predator Revo shaft
- Thread starter Mase
- Start date
Hi Mase
Don't remove it. Make the shortest extension you can. Quick release one side and the other joint screw thread on the other.
Being a golf club repairman, I also would suggest not using heat. I don't know if the insert is threaded in or pushed in but if heat is applied to break down the epoxy, It could also heat the graphite/resin in the shaft and will eventually breakdown the mixture. If you apply a twisting action, at least on golf shafts, they will look like a twizzler when your done. The only shot you may have is breaking the epoxy bond and letting the shaft resin rest, then try to twist it out. Again, I wouldn't use heat but I'm not sure what's needed so I thought I would throw some past experiences your way. Hope it turns out for you.
Messing with the new REVO shafts in an attempt to change the threads is not a very smart idea - heat is a terrible idea and machine the insert out will present its' own problems in fixturing the shaft since the carbon fiber in quite thin and damaging the surface is a one way proposition.
I like it. I might try that with my Revo. It's the path of least resistance. I would use "adaptors" with a Schon and LE4 Predator. Ok who wants to make one. I have a lathe but have not pinned anything yet.
This. Don't mess.
Mr Drexler,
A forum allows for free and open discussion so let's go ahead and do that.
Have you ever been inside or opened-up a Predator Revo shaft ? Nor have I.
However, we can make assumptions of it's construction based on what we do know.
The current run of Revo shafts utilize the Uni-QR insert.
To the best of my knowledge, there are at least 2 different lengths of these inserts.
The std length, the one that most are familiar with, is 1" long with .875" residing in the shaft.
The remaining .125" is the exposed portion or 'pilot' if you will.
The .875" length in the shaft is not hanging in a void. It has threads on it's buried end
that are secured into something. My guess would be into phenolic. The same phenolic that
is at the face of the shaft. That face of the shaft is not the same carbon-fiber as the shaft.
It is a noticeably different mtrl. It's black while the shaft's body is gray.
Since I routinely use Predator supplied phenolic plugs, I'm assuming, until proven otherwise,
that the face of the shaft is a version of this phenolic plug.
The ones that I'm most familiar with have a buried length of 1.25".
That could/would create ample support for a collet to be used in holding the shaft in a lathe.
Again, I'm not supporting the use of heat to remove an insert from a plastic shaft.
I am however, confident that careful and prudent machining for it's removal is certainly possible.
I am also suppied with a pheno-plug that is 2.125" in L, 12mm OD x 6mm ID.
These pheno-plugs would seem to me to be ideal for filling the hole created when removing the insert.
Once installed, you could go to almost any thread desired.
Changing REVO shafts ??
It may surprise you to know that I do know a bit more about the REVO shaft construction than the average bear - ha.
However, that does not put me in a position to disclose exactly what I do know other than to say AGAIN that removing the Uni-loc insert in an attempt to change/modify them is a particularly bad idea - and damaging the surface texture of the carbon fiber is a oneway proposition.
SO unless you have some magical way of holding the REVO shaft in the joint area that will guarantee not corrupting the finish, while you attempt to remove the insert and convert to another thread configuration, your total success is doubtful.
It may surprise you to know that I do know a bit more about the REVO shaft construction than the average bear - ha.
However, that does not put me in a position to disclose exactly what I do know other than to say AGAIN that removing the Uni-loc insert in an attempt to change/modify them is a particularly bad idea - and damaging the surface texture of the carbon fiber is a oneway proposition.
SO unless you have some magical way of holding the REVO shaft in the joint area that will guarantee not corrupting the finish, while you attempt to remove the insert and convert to another thread configuration, your total success is doubtful.
Please post your method. I'm sure others would like to do the same thing for other pins.
Again, congrats Mase.
Keep your secrets to yourself and don't give away the farm.
Right now you have the nuts. Give it away and all you'll have left are the empty shells.
Even those who aren't CMs want to know how you did it. What will they do with that knowledge ?
Those that have the gift of creative thought will figure it out on their own.
A pic would be nice though.......ha
Keep your secrets to yourself and don't give away the farm.
Right now you have the nuts. Give it away and all you'll have left are the empty shells.
Even those who aren't CMs want to know how you did it. What will they do with that knowledge ?
Those that have the gift of creative thought will figure it out on their own.
A pic would be nice though.......ha
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That's funny sh#t...good one.
I do agree with KJ, Don't share in the open, if you do share, do so selectively, IMO.
Dave
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Holding onto carbon/composite shaft is no real secret.I have not seen a revo shaft but do know how to make things from composite tube. Fishing rod companies do it all the time. Just make a solid sleeve that is the same geometry as the part you are holding. Not a split collet but a distortion collet. Then the part is pushed into the collet like a morse taper sleeve on a drill bit. It just holds on the taper. The second secret is to have the distortion collet at the powered side, and have a free wheeling support in the back. In my case, I take the drive motor off the head stock and attach the motor to the steady rest I made, that is why it has a belt groove on the back of the steady rest.
All that a side, any shaft that has an insert can have the insert changed. KJ had some very good advise. The downside is depending on the heat applied to remove the existing insert could already have had a negative effect on the carbon composite and it's resin. There are just so many resins out there it is too hard to tell without destroying a shaft to find out. Epoxy resins are your best bet and best to choose one that can handle shock loading like what they use in golf clubs for example. Again there are loads of different shock loading epoxies on the market. I would avoid anything that is quick curing though. Sometimes using LH (left hand turning direction) boring bars are very useful in removing inserts etc. So instead of the spindle in the usual counter clock wise direction, you run them in the clockwise direction. The cutter can be either cutting on the front but will be in the orientation of placing a lifting action on the lathe bed, where as an away from you tool will have the cutting forces into the bed. If the insert is threaded , the LH tool will have the tendency to help the thread insert to unscrew and effectively self remove. A RH boring bar just works the remnants into the very end of the hole.
Anyway my advice is since you have already had a go at it, carry on. You have already decided that if you wreck it your'e up for another shaft anyway so you can't loose.
Neil
All that a side, any shaft that has an insert can have the insert changed. KJ had some very good advise. The downside is depending on the heat applied to remove the existing insert could already have had a negative effect on the carbon composite and it's resin. There are just so many resins out there it is too hard to tell without destroying a shaft to find out. Epoxy resins are your best bet and best to choose one that can handle shock loading like what they use in golf clubs for example. Again there are loads of different shock loading epoxies on the market. I would avoid anything that is quick curing though. Sometimes using LH (left hand turning direction) boring bars are very useful in removing inserts etc. So instead of the spindle in the usual counter clock wise direction, you run them in the clockwise direction. The cutter can be either cutting on the front but will be in the orientation of placing a lifting action on the lathe bed, where as an away from you tool will have the cutting forces into the bed. If the insert is threaded , the LH tool will have the tendency to help the thread insert to unscrew and effectively self remove. A RH boring bar just works the remnants into the very end of the hole.
Anyway my advice is since you have already had a go at it, carry on. You have already decided that if you wreck it your'e up for another shaft anyway so you can't loose.
Neil
Revo shaft
I am pretty sure that I don't do anything much different from the rest of the cue builders and repair people on this site. The only thing that might be different is the way I hold the work.
I have 3 magnetic pads (urethane) that fit on the jaws. It lets me hold virtually anything without damaging it. I have a friend in the industry that makes them for me. This is about the 4th set I have gone through in 20 years.
I am pretty sure that I don't do anything much different from the rest of the cue builders and repair people on this site. The only thing that might be different is the way I hold the work.
I have 3 magnetic pads (urethane) that fit on the jaws. It lets me hold virtually anything without damaging it. I have a friend in the industry that makes them for me. This is about the 4th set I have gone through in 20 years.
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Good job Mr. Mason