Predator shaft decal for shaft blank
- Thread starter jecues
- Start date
I'm sure that KJ or someone else that has put one one will be along shortly.
I do have a 314 with an upside down decal so maybe someone else could have taken lessons. I don't think it was a repair before I got it so it must have been a partial.
I do have a 314 with an upside down decal so maybe someone else could have taken lessons. I don't think it was a repair before I got it so it must have been a partial.
One is all you should need........in a perfect world.
I'll be honest with you, Predator decals are total crap.
Every time they revamp and come out with new decals, they're worse than the series before.
This is one of my biggest complaints with Predator and they ain't listening.
Their service to their techs in the field is abysmal.
It took me 3 yrs to get phenolic plugs that I was later told were supposed to come with every partial.
It took me 2 yrs to get them to make partials in 30" length.
I've been telling them for more than 6 yrs that their decals are a joke.
Sorry for the rant but Predator decals are a sore subject with me.
OB cues on the other hand has treated me very well, Thanx Royce.
The one and only issue I had with OB was, you guessed it, decals.
I informed Royce of my problem and he replied that he was now aware of it.
He had new, fresh decals to me within 2 days. That's top-shelf service.
No problems since and I'm impressed with the fact that OB is constantly improving.
OK, now to your issue.
What color are they? If they're pink, you're in for a world of frustration.
You'll go thru 20 of them before you get one applied correctly.
If the decal you have is pink just throw it away and I'll send you a couple that you at least stand a chance with.
Predator used to issue what's known as 'dry-apply' type decals. There was no water involved.
These were my favorite as there was no muss, no fuss. Cut a square off the sheet of decals,
peel the tissue paper off the decal, flip it over onto the shaft and rub the back of the paper (with a tool).
The transfer was effortless and you were ready for the spray-booth.
My success of application rate with those was in the high 90% range.
Unfortunately, they stopped making those many yrs. ago.
Since then we've had maybe a 1/2 dz variations of the 'wet-apply' type decals.
These are just like the decals you used if you built model cars as a kid (oh, and they're white).
The application of these isn't too bad if you keep the back of the paper wet enough to slide the decal.
I don't know what finish you use so this may not apply to you. I shoot auto-clear.
When I lay down a light-mist first coat, the decal will wrinkle up and get so distorted that
you think it's going to dissolve right before your eyes. Fortunately, it doesn't.
During the 5-10 min. flash time, the decal lays back down perfectly and you can continue on.
The only draw-back after that is the thickness of the decal's film. Way too thick.
You're almost guaranteed at least 2 sessions in the booth. Rarely will you get it done in one unless you're shooting UV.
I try to keep my finish on the thin side, 2-3 mils. The decal itself is at least that thick.
Well, LMK what you've got and we'll go from there.
Good Luck, KJ
PS: Terry, upside down decal, hilarious though I do recall a post by Bob DZ where he had done just that, upside down.
When I asked him why he did that, he replied; "Because I can".
He's just as correct today as he was then.
I'll be honest with you, Predator decals are total crap.
Every time they revamp and come out with new decals, they're worse than the series before.
This is one of my biggest complaints with Predator and they ain't listening.
Their service to their techs in the field is abysmal.
It took me 3 yrs to get phenolic plugs that I was later told were supposed to come with every partial.
It took me 2 yrs to get them to make partials in 30" length.
I've been telling them for more than 6 yrs that their decals are a joke.
Sorry for the rant but Predator decals are a sore subject with me.
OB cues on the other hand has treated me very well, Thanx Royce.
The one and only issue I had with OB was, you guessed it, decals.
I informed Royce of my problem and he replied that he was now aware of it.
He had new, fresh decals to me within 2 days. That's top-shelf service.
No problems since and I'm impressed with the fact that OB is constantly improving.
OK, now to your issue.
What color are they? If they're pink, you're in for a world of frustration.
You'll go thru 20 of them before you get one applied correctly.
If the decal you have is pink just throw it away and I'll send you a couple that you at least stand a chance with.
Predator used to issue what's known as 'dry-apply' type decals. There was no water involved.
These were my favorite as there was no muss, no fuss. Cut a square off the sheet of decals,
peel the tissue paper off the decal, flip it over onto the shaft and rub the back of the paper (with a tool).
The transfer was effortless and you were ready for the spray-booth.
My success of application rate with those was in the high 90% range.
Unfortunately, they stopped making those many yrs. ago.
Since then we've had maybe a 1/2 dz variations of the 'wet-apply' type decals.
These are just like the decals you used if you built model cars as a kid (oh, and they're white).
The application of these isn't too bad if you keep the back of the paper wet enough to slide the decal.
I don't know what finish you use so this may not apply to you. I shoot auto-clear.
When I lay down a light-mist first coat, the decal will wrinkle up and get so distorted that
you think it's going to dissolve right before your eyes. Fortunately, it doesn't.
During the 5-10 min. flash time, the decal lays back down perfectly and you can continue on.
The only draw-back after that is the thickness of the decal's film. Way too thick.
You're almost guaranteed at least 2 sessions in the booth. Rarely will you get it done in one unless you're shooting UV.
I try to keep my finish on the thin side, 2-3 mils. The decal itself is at least that thick.
Well, LMK what you've got and we'll go from there.
Good Luck, KJ
PS: Terry, upside down decal, hilarious though I do recall a post by Bob DZ where he had done just that, upside down.
When I asked him why he did that, he replied; "Because I can".
He's just as correct today as he was then.
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You didn't have to quote me, my post is right above yours. Lol
I mean, that's a lot to quote and probably not worth repeating.
Anyway, get your shaft ready for finish. Make sure you've got a good sealer on it and it's cured.
Wet the back of the decal, the paper. You could probably throw it in a bowl of water also.
After about a min. or so you should be able to feel the decal start to 'give/slide' on the paper.
You're ready to go. Determine where you want to place the decal and position yourself above that.
Slide the decal off the paper onto your chosen location and dab away any water drops with a paper-towel.
You're ready for finish.
HTHs, KJ
PS: I should probably add that you want to get as close to perfect alignment of the decal
as you can get as it's going on. You won't be able to adjust it once it's on the shaft.
I mean, that's a lot to quote and probably not worth repeating.
Anyway, get your shaft ready for finish. Make sure you've got a good sealer on it and it's cured.
Wet the back of the decal, the paper. You could probably throw it in a bowl of water also.
After about a min. or so you should be able to feel the decal start to 'give/slide' on the paper.
You're ready to go. Determine where you want to place the decal and position yourself above that.
Slide the decal off the paper onto your chosen location and dab away any water drops with a paper-towel.
You're ready for finish.
HTHs, KJ
PS: I should probably add that you want to get as close to perfect alignment of the decal
as you can get as it's going on. You won't be able to adjust it once it's on the shaft.
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KJ gives great advice, One thing I do when I'm sliding the decal off the backing paper is. I never us my fingers. I use a single edge blade. Just get it in the proper spot use the blade to hold it then slide the backing paper away. Then finish as KJ stated with paper towel.
Frank
Frank