Proper snooker cues.

Beautiful. :thumbup:

Saw a few I liked with "MAST WALES" on the name plate as well. Did Trevor build those as well or a different maker?
 
MAST just happenend to be random keypresses when he was designing the badge but then his daughter pointed out it was the initials of himself wife and children so it stuck. Eventually he changed it at the end of last year.

One or two there you'll see with facsimal badges as they are copy cues of famed old cues.

Can add 1 more to that, my own TW cue, photo'd with a cheap camera phone it looks purple but the base splices in the butt are actually snakewood.
 

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Wity,

Do you have contact info for Trevor? I currently shoot with a Peradon and was possibly looking to upgrade. I had consider a John Parris, however I would like to look into Trevor as well.....................his work looks very nice!

Thanks,

Mike
 
I'll p.m. it to you in a mo Mike dont think he'd like it publically displayed.
Actually gimme a few mins i have his address and phone number got to look if i have his email addy.

Parris aint in the same league to be honest way overpriced but known as the best because he's a good buisnessman. You get to be when you give cues away to pro's.
 
The advantage of Travor and Parris cues is that the wood is hand picked and shaped while keeping an eye on the grain of the wood. Thus giving you constant behavior and no warping. But I agree, most pool players that get a new cue show me the butt end of it. All that matters is if it plays well with your stroke, with the right balance and weight. My best and only advice for anybody buying a cue, is go to the store, asked the clerk for a couple of balls and shoot with it.
 
Thanks Wity.

Agreed Gordon & drsnooker...............looks are not important, potting balls is the name of the game. Custom cue, production cue...........whatever as long as it feels good to you. That is the most important.

IMO hand crafted cues have a better feel................that being said you won't know until shoot with it.

My Peradon is 1/2 jointed, and my beard catches on the joint. Nothing like potting a black and pulling a hair out mid stroke to kill your shot.

I would like a 3/4, I will pass the Peradon down to my son.

I kinda like pretty cues as well!!! LOL

Mike
 
Looks do have an impact on the player confidence... TKsix when you move to a 3/4 cue, the balance will move a lot further back and the cue will feel a lot different. If you had your peradon for a long time, it might be very hard to switch. My advice: get rid of the beard *LOL*
 
eh... I think I am satisfied with mine. If there were lots of snooker players, tables and the game was more popular here.... I WOULD invest in a nicer one.
 
Understood Drsnooker! The beard is a winter thing for me................the chicks dig it LOL. I played with a pool cue for years with an 11mm shaft. Got away from snooker for a while, no pool room in the area had one, and life got in the way.

Started playing again and purchased the Peradon about 2 years ago. The "proper" style snooker cue has definitely helped my game. I was also lucky enough to stumble on 6 x 12 in the area up for sale. So I bought it and have a nice table to practice on.

If the balance throws me off, I will sell it to Gordon at a discount!! LOL
 
Wity,

Thanks for the info..................Trevor did get back to me and we are working on a design!!

Mike
 
Oh good. I'm certain you wont be dissapointed. When i first got into cues i spent a day or two scouring different forums and found not one bad word about any of his cues. Something you cant say for almost any other maker.

Oh and if you sand your two piece Peradon down and give it an oil finish using raw Linseed Oil you'll get rid of the what can be sometimes sticky feeling as virtually all peradon cues are lacqured nowadays. Plus if when sanding it you keep it joined you may get such a perfectly smooth join that you cant feel it scraping your fingernail across it let alone catch your whiskers in it.

You may want to try that too Gordon though i think you'll find your Riley is varnished. The chinese often use varnish it kills the woodworm and holds the honeycomed wood together :grin:
 
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Those are some great looking cues.

No point in me buying one unfortunately...the nearest real snooker table is over an hour away.

Whats a low end player cue from him start at?
 
I think your talking about 230 - 260 pounds for a plain ebony and ash cue.
More expensive than many yet cheaper than some but I've never heard of anyone ever find fault and 2nd hand cues by him hold their price far better too.
 
bud green said:
Whats a low end player cue from him start at?
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Snooker gives you an ideal opportunity to free yourself from this idiotic fascination with equipment Bud. Buy a thirty quid cue that will last longer than you will, stick a decent ten bob tip on it, and you have as much as the greatest players that ever lived ever had, and you will never need anything more. Spend the fortune you save on table time. That's how it's done in snooker.

Boro Nut
 
The trouble with ?30 quid cues though is they are made in china by schoolboys, have painted splices or at best ugly uneven ones that are then painted, joints that come loose as they are glued not screwed in place, ash or maple shafts that'll have a 50-50 chance of warping as it's low quality unseasoned wood. Butts that again stand a 50-50 chance of cracking for the same reason and then the whole thing is covered in a thick lacquer or varnish that glides through yourr hands like a derailed train.

Second hand you might pick up an old machine spliced decent cue for ?30 but anything else in that price range is usually firewood.
 
I play snooker once per month or so with my pool cue with 11.75mm tip diameter even though I own a snooker cue. If you play pool most of the time, don't have years of snooker experience and on top of that play snooker only occasionally then it doesn't make sense to buy a snooker cue at all. Trust me, at best you will play the same. Snooker cue itself won't improve your snooker game if you're a pool player with no snooker experience, no matter how great it might feel when you strike those smaller balls. It simply won't. You'd need to spend thousands of hours alone practicing only snooker, not playing pool at all, and only then you should invest your money into a proper snooker cue.

I see snooker players sometimes shooting pool with snooker cues or some modified snooker cues with fatter shafts. Do you think they do this to show off? No. I think they simply can't shoot better with a pool cue.
 
predator...........I have played both for years. About 2 years ago I purchased a snooker cue, prior to that I played with a pool cue that had an 11mm shaft.

At first the snooker cue felt strange, the hit was stiff, the shaft taper was strange, the noise was different etc........... BUT, after some time at the table with it my potting definitely went up.

I hope this makes sense................with the pool cue it felt as though the balls jumped off the tip..........with the snooker cue the balls feel like they stay on the cloth no jumping. The hit is more solid with the snooker cue, perhaps the stiffer hit is better with the lighter balls.

I do bounce back and forth from pool to snooker. There is an adjustment period, but it is not as long as you would think. It actually takes me longer from snooker to pool than the other way around.

Mike
 
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