Proper Way to Move Slate?

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Recently I posted about a used table I plan on buying. Well I decided to go ahead and bring it home. I understand I will need to break the table down to move it properly (3 piece slate), and I don't have a problem doing so. But I am a little worried over transporting the slate pieces.

I have a good hour drive (taking the turnpike) to get the table home, or 1.5 to 2 hours if I take the back roads. Anyhow, just curious the proper way to support the slate during transit. I called a local pool shop, and they said they move it all the time HORIZONTALLY with blankets between the different pieces. Yet I found a website that says to move it VERTICALLY with 2x4 crating around it.

Needless to say I'm confused, and a little on edge. I don't want to risk breaking the slate. Ideas or suggestions? Fire away!!

Thanks!
NL
:D
 
Just be carefull with them. They are like marble....just a rock. We move them vertically in a frame type thing we made......kinda like they move glass. But we have had to move them and stacked them, with card board or something between them. Just drive slow and take it easy. They are fragile but they are also alot stronger than you think.
 
I don't mind to build a crate contraption to hold the slate vertically if you really think it would increase the odds of NOT damaging the slate. I could pre-cut some pieces to approximate sizes before I leave and then assemble with my cordless drill and some screws on site.

Of course using some cardboard and blankets would be much easier. But I do worry about them creating "slip plane" in the back of my truck bed as I have a plastic bed liner, and nothing ever stays still in it. Although I guess I could take some rope and tie the ends together and then tie them off to the truck so they don't slide.

Basically whatever you would recommend, I would follow. As I recall from our previous conversations, you actually setup tables so I know you got the experience.

Thanks!
NL
P-)
 
Laying them down is fine. Just becareful of the tops of the slates, not to scratch them if you slide them around on each other. Drive easy and watch out for quick stops or big bumps. In our years of moving tables........KNOCK ON WOOD.......we haven't broke any moving them. We have had them broke in shipping a few times. And once I took the blame for breaking a bar table slate. Which we are sure it was broke before I lifted one end to recover it, but what ya gonna do.......so we replaced it for the guy!
If you are careful with moving the slates around and when you are setting them down they should be fine. And watch out for your fingers when your laying them down....LOL!
 
Hello, I just did this for the first time two weekends ago And it was quite easy. My slate is wood backed which made putting the cloth back on a snap. I stood the slate on edge against the spare tire in the back of My tahoe. It was not a big deal at all. Just take Your corners s l o w l y. Good Luck!
 
pooltablemech said:
Laying them down is fine. Just becareful of the tops of the slates, not to scratch them if you slide them around on each other. Drive easy and watch out for quick stops or big bumps. In our years of moving tables........KNOCK ON WOOD.......we haven't broke any moving them. We have had them broke in shipping a few times. And once I took the blame for breaking a bar table slate. Which we are sure it was broke before I lifted one end to recover it, but what ya gonna do.......so we replaced it for the guy!
If you are careful with moving the slates around and when you are setting them down they should be fine. And watch out for your fingers when your laying them down....LOL!
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Yes he is right, you dont need to build some fancy stand up thing, lay them down and pad them well. Drive slow and dont hit any bumps. Moving old slates, they sometimes arrive with a big crack in the corner, but the hairline crack was there before and the move just opens it up. It the slate is solid and intact, it will travel fine. If you do crack it slightly, you can try and seal it with bondo or you can buy a replacement from me, I sell single pieces for 7-8-9' tables at very resonable prices.
 
Hows this for hoot........get to a guys house that says he needs his table set up. Get there and the table is still together upside down! 3 piece slate still had the rails on, the skirts everything but the legs! He said he didn't figure it would be to hard to just flip the 8 footer back over or whatever! lol!
Took some thinking but eventually got the rails off and flipped the slates and the frame on the side.......so we could get to the slate bolts....to get them off lol! It was a mess.
 
pooltablemech said:
Hows this for hoot........get to a guys house that says he needs his table set up. Get there and the table is still together upside down! 3 piece slate still had the rails on, the skirts everything but the legs! He said he didn't figure it would be to hard to just flip the 8 footer back over or whatever! lol!
Took some thinking but eventually got the rails off and flipped the slates and the frame on the side.......so we could get to the slate bolts....to get them off lol! It was a mess.
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Hahaha....that is the great thing about stupidity. It seems to evolve to a higher level day by day. Case & point with your clients. Oh well, we all have brain farts from time to time...but it is so enjoyable hearing about other peoples....hehe.

And thanks again for the advice on moving the slate. I will do as advised and just lay it down flat and wrap it with blankets and maybe even place some cardboard between the pieces. Not hitting a bump might be a problem though....have you ever driven through Oklahoma? We got some of the crappiest roads. Of course the majority of them are ALWAYS under construction, yet they never seem to improve.

Also I might note that I plan on hauling the rest of the table at the same time. My initial thoughts were to hook a trailer to the back of my truck and then strap down the frame (perhaps while still on the legs) to the trailer. I'm sure the trailer will bounce a little on the way back home. Do you think that could cause enough vibration to hurt the slate?
 
If you live in a cold weather state you probably can go to any farm or hardware store and get some sand bags to lay at the sides and ends so they don't slide.
 
JimS said:
If you live in a cold weather state you probably can go to any farm or hardware store and get some sand bags to lay at the sides and ends so they don't slide.
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I live in Oklahoma...it can be 70 degrees one day and snowing the next. We get a wicked mess of weather with no apparent rhyme or reason (at least that's why I'm assuming the weather man is always wrong).

Anyhow, yes, that is a great idea. I threw about 5 or 6 sandbags in my truck our first snow and have been too lazy to take them out yet (knowing as soon as I do another storm will hit). Again, a great idea....I will definitely use them to my advantage now.
 
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I finally got the table moved last night. As you might have guessed by my post, this was my first experience moving a table (at least while taking it apart) and I have to admit, it really went better than what I was expecting. On the other hand, I can see why those moving and setup fees are so much now. You work your rear off...hehe.

I got it back to the house and set it in place. Also I went ahead and placed the slate on the table to help it “settle” in. Then this weekend, I will try to find a Starret level so I can level the frame and then place the slate in its final resting place and shim it as necessary. Hopefully by Saturday evening I’ll be shooting a few games. By the way, which size of level do you guys recommend? Or does it really matter? I assume they are all to the same level of precision as long as they are all Starret models.

In regards to the actual movement of the slate I was so worried about. My boss insisted I take one of our company Ford crew cabs and gooseneck flatbed trailer. Overkill to say the least, but the extra cab space came in handy. We ended up wrapping each piece of slate with a blanket and then facing it on its side and sliding it in the floorboard of the back part of the cab. Put some more blankets between each piece of slate, and pushed the front seat all the way back to create a vice type effect between the two seats to hold the slate still. So in essence I carried it vertically, and had no problems whatsoever. I laid the table face down on the flatbed and strapped her down.

Looks like the method worked as nothing got damaged on the journey home. But I have to say, putting that slate in the cab was probably a good move on our part. The trailer was 16’, so there was some bounce to it. The table helped weight it down a little, but those trailers are used to seeing 7,500-10,000lbs on a regular basis, with a much higher capacity. I was “light” to say the least. I’m afraid the bounce of the trailer might have cracked something had I moved it on that.

Anyhow, I just wanted to give an update, and tell everyone once again how thankful I am for all the great suggestions. It sure is nice to have a board like this to come to and get such good advice.

Thanks!
NL
:D
 
12 inch one is the ones we have.............the smaller ones don't give you enough length to get a good level. And the 16 inch one is a little over kill. But even the 12" one is gonna cost you over 100.
 
Here is a close up of the ones we use.........
 

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pooltablemech said:
12 inch one is the ones we have.............the smaller ones don't give you enough length to get a good level. And the 16 inch one is a little over kill. But even the 12" one is gonna cost you over 100.
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Good thing I asked. I had seen a couple of 6" levels on eBay going for about $25 or so and almost jumped. When looking at the 12" levels, I notice there is a #68 and #98. The latter is usually followed with the term "improved". Is one truly better than the other?

But you are right about the 12" levels being more pricey. Still I am kicking around the idea of buying one if I can't find one to borrow. I have some friends that work in machine shops that may have one they can take home for the weekend. *Keeping fingers crossed*

It seems if I had the proper tools, I would be capable of getting the frame and slate level. I feel if I do this, I will be home free afterwards. Therefore, the $100 for the level may not be a bad investment considering I will spend at least $200-$250 to have a pro come out and do it for me. Plus we are trying to sell our house, so I know the table will get moved at least 1 more time before it gets to its final destination. I doubt I would fork over the $$ to have a pro do it right now since I know it will be temporary. Therefore, if I had the level, I could do my best now and get a "trial" run in before the final test. Otherwise, I will be forced to use my bubble level for now.

Am I being too naive about all this? Be honest with me.

Thanks!
NL
P-)
 
If you got some friends with a machine shop.....ask them. They will let ya borrow it...if ya good friends! Alotta money to put into something to use it that little. Or the guys at the shop might know where you can get a second hand one....or even order you one.
 
A regular old carpenter's bubble level will barely get you in the ballpark as far as getting the slate perfectly level. If you don't have access to a starret another alternative to get the slate level is simple trial and error.
Once you get the slate on and tightened down, simply roll the balls around very slowly, down the full length of the table and side to side. If the slate is off at all you will really be able to see where you need to raise or lower the slate because the bare slate magnifies how easily the balls will roll off. Roll the balls slow enough so that they only roll a few feet. If they tail off as they come to a stop then you need to keep adjusting until you get it right! Good luck..... It can be a headache to get it perfect but its worth the time when you got those long slow roll shots and you know you can trust the table!!!
 
Haha, I was thinking the same thing PTM. By the way I finally found a local tool house that sells them. $135 is what they want. I'm sure I can get them on eBay cheaper, but I need to get it finished by this weekend.

The deal with my buddy at the machine shop turned out to be useless. They do alot of aircraft parts, and apparently they have just about any machine you can think of for getting down to the umptenth thousandth of precision, but not a simple Starrett. Hehe, at first he offered to run it through his machine if I brought it up to the shop, then I explained it was for a pool table.

But I was talking to the Grandpa-in-law and apparently he has some sort of a mechanics level. I know it's not a Starrett like noted in the picture, but he said it should work. I'm going over tomorrow morning to take a peek. He said something about being able to attach the bubble part to a regular ruler!?!?!?
 
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