question about Atlas 5/8 x 11 threader

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Has anyone used the Atlas 5/8 threaders? I bought the 11tpi and the 18tpi and I have not been able to get any useable threads. I tried CA, wax, and wd40 even, all that seems to happen is crush the wood and leave marks. I have tried for 2 days now on scrap maple dowels, tried different diameters, but no threads. :(
I want to put on a threaded stainless steel joint on a cue I'm building, but can't figure this part out. Any help much appreciated.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
Has anyone used the Atlas 5/8 threaders? I bought the 11tpi and the 18tpi and I have not been able to get any useable threads. I tried CA, wax, and wd40 even, all that seems to happen is crush the wood and leave marks. I have tried for 2 days now on scrap maple dowels, tried different diameters, but no threads. :(
I want to put on a threaded stainless steel joint on a cue I'm building, but can't figure this part out. Any help much appreciated.
Dave

I've never had any luck with the coarse thread dies on the more fibrous hard woods. They would work OK on Ebony and Coco but usually shred Maple. The finer 18 thread usually will work if you are careful. I've always just put in a 60 deg V-bit in a router and milled the threads myself. Much easier I've found.

Dick
 
Hand dies made out of Aluminum and brass usually require a smaller tenon than the actual size if not, It just rips the wood, NO SUPER GLUE NEEDED ANYWHERE ON A CUE, EXCEPT TO HOLD THE TIP ON!
 
Michael Webb said:
Hand dies made out of Aluminum and brass usually require a smaller tenon than the actual size if not, It just rips the wood, NO SUPER GLUE NEEDED ANYWHERE ON A CUE, EXCEPT TO HOLD THE TIP ON!



Tap, tap, tap, The smaller tenon is the only way I know of too. the tops of the threads will be flat, but The collar should still screw on tight If the tenon is just the right size.

Greg
 
Dave38 said:
Has anyone used the Atlas 5/8 threaders? I bought the 11tpi and the 18tpi and I have not been able to get any useable threads. I tried CA, wax, and wd40 even, all that seems to happen is crush the wood and leave marks. I have tried for 2 days now on scrap maple dowels, tried different diameters, but no threads. :(
I want to put on a threaded stainless steel joint on a cue I'm building, but can't figure this part out. Any help much appreciated.
Dave
I have one word. SPEED!!!!!
 
Michael Webb said:
Hand dies made out of Aluminum and brass usually require a smaller tenon than the actual size if not, It just rips the wood, NO SUPER GLUE NEEDED ANYWHERE ON A CUE, EXCEPT TO HOLD THE TIP ON!

I ran across a thread while searching that recommended using CA before threading to harden the wood so it would cut cleaner threads. I have tried it with joint pins and did seem to help.
I will try Dicks method later today and see if my thread mill will do. Thanks guys,
Dave
 
JoeyInCali said:
Thanks Joey, actually, I bought one from him already. It works great for a ferrule so far, haven't tried it on a joint tenon yet. My spindle bore is to small to slide the butt thru, so I have to chuck up one end and by means of a steadyrest/pillow block assembly, for the other end. It takes considerably time to set up the arraingement, I was going to today but did breakfast with my Dad and then ended up at the new Harbor Freight store for 2.5 hrs. Kinda killed the day's plans.
Dave
 
Tenon threader?

Dave38 said:
Has anyone used the Atlas 5/8 threaders? I bought the 11tpi and the 18tpi and I have not been able to get any useable threads. I tried CA, wax, and wd40 even, all that seems to happen is crush the wood and leave marks. I have tried for 2 days now on scrap maple dowels, tried different diameters, but no threads. :(
I want to put on a threaded stainless steel joint on a cue I'm building, but can't figure this part out. Any help much appreciated.
Dave
Dave try turning the tenon to 0.585 this should get it Done let me know if it works.
 
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