Question about cleaning Aramith Tournament Pro Cup balls with a magic eraser?

Dopc

www.PoolActionTV.com
Silver Member
Three weeks ago I purchased a set of Aramith Tournament Pro Cup balls along with a slew of other items for a recent table purchase. The set comes with a bottle of Aramith ball cleaner (smells like wax to me). I have read all about the bucket ball polisher and the variants. I plan on building one once I get a bucket on the next HomeDepot trip as I already have the buffer and some spare carpet.

cleaning process*
So up to this point at least once a week I have spent about 5 minutes a ball polishing by hand. First I rub all the balls with a couple drops of the cleaner and set aside on a micro-fiber wash cloth. By the time I get 16 done, the first ones start to dry and glaze over (you know, like wax dries). I then grab a clean micro-fiber rag and polish each ball to a nice luster while watching TV or a match stream.

Idiot discovery or idiot move period:
I'm in the pool room goofing about doing a cleaning of the cue ball at the sink and there's a stubborn chalk mark, by chance the wife left a new clean Magic Eraser at the sink. so my brain puts two and two together. I got it wet and rung it out, to my amazement with little to no pressure it took the chalk mark right off. Being overly anal, I immediately inspect the ball finish with a magnifying glass looking for signs on the surface that this was a dumb idea. To my amazement I saw zero ill affects, in fact it did indeed appear to "polish/shine" the surface of the ball to a luster just as if I had done a full cleaning.
A few days later A buddy shows up to play and the balls were a tad marked up (leather pockets & impact spots). So I thought why not just hit the whole set quickly with the Magic Eraser.

The Magic Eraser cleaning.
So this is what I did, get the magic eraser wet and wring it out and proceed to polish each ball, with the motion you would use to polish a shoe while spinning the ball with each stroke for about 20-30 seconds. I then put the ball in a micro-fiber wash cloth and spin it in the cloth to both dry and semi-polish/shine it. It only takes me about 10 minutes to do the whole set verse the other method that can take 60-90 minutes of manual labor. I have also noticed since this cleaning the impact marks are not as visually obvious on the balls after the Magic Eraser cleaning like I would get with the Aramith cleaner.

Main question/concern of the post:
Primarily, am I doing any damage to the balls? I understand the Magic Eraser is a micro-abrasive but I see no signs of any ball material removal or scratching of the surface. In fact just the opposite, it appears to be "polishing/shining" the surface, at least to me. So, have I made some sort of grand discovery or have I proven myself a complete idiot?

Thanks for your time and feedback is well appreciated.
Dopc.
 
It appears I get to be the guinea pig on this one. Cleaned the set again last night with just the magic eraser and a dry micro-fiber cloth, no signs of any dulling finish on any of the balls (yet) after 3 cleanings. So far I have not noticed any change in the "throw" of the balls.
I just need to get myself to the depot and get a bucket.....

Dopc
 
Just me, but I wouldn't do the ME.

The idea is to have the balls nice and polished so that they act right, off each other and the rails. Anything that degrades the quality of the finish of the balls, even at the micro-level is going to change that. "Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon..." You may end up with a problem that may or may not be fixable later on with a product like the Aramith polish.

Lou Figueroa
 
I use a Magic Eraser on cue balls all the time. It doesn't seem to damage them at all. After cleaning I put them in the ball polisher with the other balls where they get Maguire's Express Detail polish (non-waxy, super-thin finish).
 
lfigueroa: Believe me, those thoughts are close in mind. If I do ruin them, I'll just get another set. As of now I see no ill affects. Science says something about a softer material shouldn't cause an abrasive action on a harder material. Or, I'm simply an idiot.......

bdorman: Awesome to hear someone else has the same type of thought patterns. Glad to hear of your success. Thanks for sharing...

SoFlo Kahuna: Hmmmmmm, thanks for sharing that thought as well. I like the way you think. I'll store this idea for the next time I re-tip and want to cleanup the ferrule...good tip....
 
Magic Eraser is great on ferrules and shafts. I tried Magic Eraser on the poly finish of one of my cues. It quickly dulled the finish. Turning a shiny finish into non-reflective matte. Then I did a quick search on google and according to other forums, other people report Magic Eraser was equivalent to 800 to 2000 grit sandpaper.

If its a brand new set, or the ball still has the original shine I would think twice and proceed with caution.

http://arcadearchive.com/pinball/magic
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=86515.0
 
Last edited:
I just use the aramith ball cleaner on the cue ball, which does a decent job of taking the chalk marks out, and for the rest of the set, I just put them in a huge bath towel, and with a bit of Pledge, just roll them real good till they shine again.

But I never ever hit any other balls with my cue other than the cue ball.
 
The Aramith ball cleaner does not always remove all of the chalk marks and other markings. So I use the Magic Eraser with denatured alcohol to easily spot remove those markings that the Aramith ball cleaner can't handle.

I also keep some Magic Eraser in a ziploc bag and store it in my cue ball case...for those rare occasions at the pool hall when I need to spot remove a prominent marking on a ball.
 
Last edited:
how magic eraser works- Melamine Foam

Erasing Stains with Melamine Foam
Magic Erasers, Easy Erasing Pads and similar products all have the same key ingredient: melamine foam. Melamine foam erasers are formed differently from other cleaning products and only need water to effectively clean most stains -- no chemical cleaners or soaps required. The only downfall is that melamine foam erasers wear out quickly -- just like pencil erasers do.

To all outward appearances, however, melamine foam erasers look and feel just like any other sponge. To view the crucial properties of melamine foam, you need to go down to the microscopic level. This is because when melamine resin cures into foam, its microstructure becomes very hard -- almost as HARD AS GLASS-- causing it to perform on stains a lot like super-fine SANDPAPER You may be asking yourself, if this foam is almost as hard as glass, then how can it be like a sponge? Because it's a special type of open-cell foam.

Closed-cell foam is easier to visualize, so let's start there. Types of closed-cell foam are usually the more rigid because they retain most of their air pockets intact, like a bunch of balls all crammed together. For open-cell foam (typically the more flexible) imagine that those balls have burst, but that some sections of their casings still remain. You can picture a squishy sea sponge as an example. In airy melamine foam, only a very limited amount of casing stays in place, and the strands that do are located where the edges of several air pockets overlapped. The foam is flexible because each tiny strand is so slender and small that bending the entire eraser is easy.

**The cavity-ridden open microstructure of melamine foam is where the second major boost to its stain-removing capabilities comes in. Apart from being able to scrape at stains with extremely hard microscopic filaments, with a few quick runs of the eraser, the stain has already started to come away. That's aided by the fact that the dirt is pulled into the open spaces between the spindly skeletal strands and bound there. These two factors combined make this next-generation eraser seem almost magical.
--------
fyi-I would not use this on my best ball sets.
 
Go get this..."Scratch-X-2 " at your local Lowes/Home Depot/Autosupply house. Apply sparingly on the entire ball surface for 15-20 seconds. Rub more aggressively on CB 'bruises' and marks on the OB's. Polish off use any clean hand towel/micro etc. Speaking of plasic polishing.... try this on your ferrule... and other poly surfaces... Then vacuum your table and wipe down playing surface with damp cloth. Get ready to play your best pool...faster. Your might have some skid for about 10-20 minutes but like a new toys the new will wear off again.

Magic Eraser is NOT recomended for pool balls.

If you have black 'pocket marking' or paint/dye mark from your leather pockets you can fix that too using KIWI clear Shoe Polish directly on your pockets... Apply 2/3 coats working it in let it set (dry) as you move to the other pockets to do the same for each. after 1minutes or so, polish to luster the Clear Coat aggressively... Now no more black/brown marks on your balls. Ball will stay clean 10X longer.

Enjoy :thumbup:

Randy
 
Back
Top