Question about purpleheart

newo9277

newo9277

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,
I have a cue i made with purpleheart points, and i noticed that when i cut or sand it the purple gets lighter and more of a gray. When it sits for a few weeks the purple gets darker and more of a purple color. Is this due to exposure to light or to air? If i seal and finish the cue wile it is still this grayish color will it darken over time, or do i need to let it darken before applying the finish?
Thanks,
Owen
 
newo9277 said:
Hi,
I have a cue i made with purpleheart points, and i noticed that when i cut or sand it the purple gets lighter and more of a gray. When it sits for a few weeks the purple gets darker and more of a purple color. Is this due to exposure to light or to air? If i seal and finish the cue wile it is still this grayish color will it darken over time, or do i need to let it darken before applying the finish?
Thanks,
Owen
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Light. Let it hang for a week or so before finishing. Turn every day or two to make sure it gets even exposure. It will continue to darken after it is finished but it takes longer. I am guessing that it is because if the UV filter in the clear coat (mine anyway).
 
Owen,
I found this at, Website.

"Heartwood Color
The heartwood is initially dull brown, but it rapidly changes to a bright, vibrant purple. Prolonged exposure darkens the wood to a dark-purplish brown or dark brown, but the original color can be restored by recutting the wood. Color variation between boards is reported to be moderate to high. Presence of minerals in some boards may cause uneven coloration and steaming is reported to affect the color. Peltogyne timbers are reported to vary widely in color between, and probably within, species.

Light & Air-Induced Changes
Treatment against the effects of ultra-violet rays has been suggested to maintain the original color of the wood. A treatment with Armorall, the car finish product, under lacquer is reported to hold the color well."

What do you all think of the "Armorall" treatment, that is mentioned? Has anyone tried it? I would think it would make it hard for the finish to adhere.

Tracy
 
Yep It definatly is more colorfull under lights. I just about keep the lights on in My shop all the time, and just hanging in there is enough to really brighten It up. Exposure to Direct sunlight is supposed to work well also. How long it will stay that way is anyone's guess. It's a shame that don't stay in full color. some pieces are really bright.
 
I will suggest using ArmorAll. Rub it down with ArmorAll before sealing it and let me know how it works out.

Thank you.

Richard
 
Cue Crazy said:
Yep It definatly is more colorfull under lights. I just about keep the lights on in My shop all the time, and just hanging in there is enough to really brighten It up. Exposure to Direct sunlight is supposed to work well also. How long it will stay that way is anyone's guess. It's a shame that don't stay in full color. some pieces are really bright.
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I have found that heat will bring out the purple. Notice when you face a piece on the lathe how purple it is at the cut from the friction. If you want it to stay purple then just stain it purple.
Dick
 
rhncue said:
I have found that heat will bring out the purple. Notice when you face a piece on the lathe how purple it is at the cut from the friction. If you want it to stay purple then just stain it purple.
Dick
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Huh, guess I never thought of that. have You ever tried It? Wondering If It takes the stain well, and if there is any uneven coloring after the wood starts loosing the natural color? I've had some woods that need a conditioner to take the stain evenly, and seems purple on purpleheart would be hard for me to tell how even It's going on until the natural color starts to change, and well after the fact, unless It's obvious when applying the stain. Also what stain base do you prefer for the best penetration if you don't mind me asking? water or oil based, assuming that a properly based finish is applied over that? I've heard mixed opinions on this.I don't like the idea of a water based finish over a oil based stain, but not sure how I feel about a oil based finish over water based stain, because I am still experiementing and learning with this type thing. I don't know if we've had a topic about these issues here, but would be interested in hearing more about It. Thanks

Yes, I have noticed, The ends will take on a different color from the heat. I have seen them do the opposite, and turn somewhat brown also, but usually a dull bit, or not enough relief causing that, and burmishing/burning more than It should be ;) .

I have also noticed that some pieces of purple heart are just more colorfull then others, and seem to hold the color better. I have some that stay more purple even when cutting, and others that will go back to the gray that was mentioned here. the gray is the most common I see though, and I basically think of It as handle wood :D . Maybe the stain would make It more usefull.

Thanks, Greg
 
I know some cuemakers who have used heat... an industrial heat gun, or even blow dryer to even out the colors... just keep moving the heat so one spot doesn't get too warm and break down any glues nearby.
Kelly
 
Cue Crazy said:
Huh, guess I never thought of that. have You ever tried It? Wondering If It takes the stain well, and if there is any uneven coloring after the wood starts loosing the natural color? I've had some woods that need a conditioner to take the stain evenly, and seems purple on purpleheart would be hard for me to tell how even It's going on until the natural color starts to change, and well after the fact, unless It's obvious when applying the stain. Also what stain base do you prefer for the best penetration if you don't mind me asking? water or oil based, assuming that a properly based finish is applied over that? I've heard mixed opinions on this.I don't like the idea of a water based finish over a oil based stain, but not sure how I feel about a oil based finish over water based stain, because I am still experiementing and learning with this type thing. I don't know if we've had a topic about these issues here, but would be interested in hearing more about It. Thanks

Yes, I have noticed, The ends will take on a different color from the heat. I have seen them do the opposite, and turn somewhat brown also, but usually a dull bit, or not enough relief causing that, and burmishing/burning more than It should be ;) .

I have also noticed that some pieces of purple heart are just more colorfull then others, and seem to hold the color better. I have some that stay more purple even when cutting, and others that will go back to the gray that was mentioned here. the gray is the most common I see though, and I basically think of It as handle wood :D . Maybe the stain would make It more usefull.

Thanks, Greg
Click to expand...

Water based stains have the deepest penetration of the 3 basic stain types. If using water based you have to wait a day or so to dry and then sand the the raised fibres back down. Oil stain is the least penetraiting of the three and takes to long to dry. I use alcohol based stain, although it doesn't penetrate as deep as water based, it can be finished over in 15 min.. Alcohol stain is harder to find as most retail stores don't carry it. I get mine from a source who supplies the large furniture makers as that is usually what they use. If you make your own stains from aniline granules alcohol can be used instead of water.
A number of years ago I read in a wood working magazine that you stain purple heart furniture tables and such to keep them from turning brown later down the road.
I once tried using a heat gun to speed up the purple color in a piece of purple heart and it turned it almost violet but it was very splotchy. I usually just place the sanded cue in a window facing the sun or leave it near near the furnace.
Dick
 
rhncue said:
Water based stains have the deepest penetration of the 3 basic stain types. If using water based you have to wait a day or so to dry and then sand the the raised fibres back down. Oil stain is the least penetraiting of the three and takes to long to dry. I use alcohol based stain, although it doesn't penetrate as deep as water based, it can be finished over in 15 min.. Alcohol stain is harder to find as most retail stores don't carry it. I get mine from a source who supplies the large furniture makers as that is usually what they use. If you make your own stains from aniline granules alcohol can be used instead of water.
A number of years ago I read in a wood working magazine that you stain purple heart furniture tables and such to keep them from turning brown later down the road.
I once tried using a heat gun to speed up the purple color in a piece of purple heart and it turned it almost violet but it was very splotchy. I usually just place the sanded cue in a window facing the sun or leave it near near the furnace.
Dick
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Thank you, I'll do a search and see if I can locate some. That sounds like what i need. I've heard you can use the W based but don't know how I feel about introducing water into a cue on purpose, and the oil does dry slow, as well as causes finishing issues. I use other alcohol based products, so can just about guess what a difference It will be, and how well It will dry. I have'nt thought to look for any alcohol based stain yet, so I do apprietiate the info.

When I first read that about the heat gun, that was My first thought, wondered If It would come out blotchy. Seems like you would have to set it up like a rotisery :D & possibly mount it to a power feed or something to get It anywhere near even looking. Guess you could hand feed It fairly even, while mounted & turning low rpm's in your wrap lathe. Never tried It myself, so don't know if It would help.

Thanks, Greg
 
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