Question for JAL/Jim and other Math Saavy Readers re BHE

Colin Colenso

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've been wondering if anyone has attempted to do the math on the correlation between pivot angle and amount of squirt for a given offset, in regard to a cue's pivot point.

I've made the assumption over the years that the two track each other linearly and proportionately, such that at one's pivot point, (ignoring swerve), the squirt angle matches the angle of cue pivot.

I'm pretty sure this isn't perfectly true, due to the nature of tip widths varying and the rounded surface of the CB, but any variations are hard to detect due to the variability of knowing one's exact original aim line and the variations in throw with speed and spin.

I've a sneaking suspicion that smaller offsets, say 1/2 tip require a longer pivot point than a 1 tip pivot, but I think it should be possible for some math to provide a more authoritative insight.

Anyone's insights would be appreciated.

Colin
 
Hi Colin,

It's been really good to see you posting again over the last few weeks.

I'm not sure if this will address your question exactly, but according to Ron Shepard's derivation, and then Dr. Dave's (see below), squirt does increase nearly linearly with tip offset. If it was exactly linear, then the pivot point on the stick would remain fixed at one location. But it isn't, though close. On page 4 of Dr. Dave's treatment, he plots squirt vs tip offset for three different ratios of ball mass to shaft endmass (i.e., high squirt (red) to low squirt (green) shafts):

http://billiards.colostate.edu/technical_proofs/new/TP_A-31.pdf

Image1.jpg

You can see the squirt tailing off some with increasing offset. Therefore, the stick's pivot location should migrate down the shaft toward the butt, a little anyway, with increasing offset. I can't give you a hard figure as to how much, but remember Ron mentioning something like an inch or two. This would depend a bit on the particulars of a given shaft, I would think.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to avoid any discussion of such details as tip curvature/shaft diameter right now as I'm preoccupied with a problem jsp brought up in the other thread about limiting cueball travel. Patrick and I have sort of hashed over this in the past, and I think the upshot is that they're irrelevant given the definition of a shaft's pivot point. But maybe Dr. Dave or Patrick will take notice and chime in?

Jim
 
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Hi Colin,

It's been really good to see you posting again over the last few weeks.

I'm not sure if this will address your question exactly, but according to Ron Shepard's derivation, and then Dr. Dave's (see below), squirt does increase nearly linearly with tip offset. If it was exactly linear, then the pivot point on the stick would remain fixed at one location. But it isn't, though close. On page 4 of Dr. Dave's treatment, he plots squirt vs tip offset for three different ratios of ball mass to shaft endmass (i.e., high squirt (red) to low squirt (green) shafts):

http://billiards.colostate.edu/technical_proofs/new/TP_A-31.pdf

View attachment 386865

You can see the squirt tailing off some with increasing offset. Therefore, the stick's pivot location should migrate down the shaft toward the butt, a little anyway, with increasing offset. I can't give you a hard figure as to how much, but remember Ron mentioning something like an inch or two. This would depend a bit on the particulars of a given shaft, I would think.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to avoid any discussion of such details as tip curvature/shaft diameter right now as I'm preoccupied with a problem jsp brought up in the other thread about limiting cueball travel. Patrick and I have sort of hashed over this in the past, and I think the upshot is that they're irrelevant given the definition of a shaft's pivot point. But maybe Dr. Dave or Patrick will take notice and chime in?

Jim

Thanks Jim,
That helped get my cogs turning. I recall reading Dr. Dave's stuff years ago but had forgotten about it.

One thing I notice is that I think that chart is a bit off, as my pivot point, which is medium deflection (11.8mm diam) is about 12 inches, which equates to about 3.5 degrees at 0.5 diameter (18.5mm) tip offset, which puts my cue on the red line.<-- (I question this below)


I did some math on offset v pivot angle. If it were a line intersecting a flat surface, it would be almost linear over 3-4 degrees with the same curve as the graph you posted. It would asymptote at 90 degrees.

However, two factors affect this path. The most significant is that the cue tip contact point shifts approximately 4mm over journey to approximately 18mm max offset at about 3.5 degrees. That's reduces the gradient of the line by about 22%.

The other factor is that the surface is getting further away. At 18mm offset, the surface is about 4mm further away. This increase the offset by about 0.25mm for the given pivot angle of approx 3.5 degrees. This reduction is about 1.4%, so it is far less significant than the effect of tip curvature.

Let's say 22% -1.4% is approximately 20%. This suggests that the gradient is about 20% less if pivot angle is charted on the y and tip offset distance is charted along x, compared to Dr. Dave's chart.

The main thing is that both of these appear to track almost linearly and with almost identical curves, such that the pivot point would seem to be pretty fixed for all offsets.

However, thinking around this full circle, makes me question my earlier argument, as it would suggest, if I've got it right, that the pivot point would be about 20% longer if we used a line on a flat surface, and so my 3.5 degree max offset is really only effectively 2.8 degrees, mainly due to the shape of the tip. That places my cue on the blue line on Dr. Dave's chart, not the red line.

Still wrapping my head around it a bit, but I find it useful to write it down.

Attached image may help others to perceive the 2 factors I discussed.

Edit: Something I just thought to add. Each mm of reduction of tip diameter should reduce the offset adjustment by about 0.4mm, this would increase the pivot point length by about 10%, even with the same tip end mass. i.e. Approx 1 inch in most cases. The reduction of tip end mass for a 1mm reduction in diameter is approximately 20%. These are accumulative, such that reducing a 13mm tip to 12mm or a 12mm to 11mm increases the length of the pivot point by about 30% or about 3 inches.

Colin
 

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Squirt/Standard?

You fellows mathematically are little above my head but I understand the most of it.

Do you have any information as relates to the amount of squirt generated by a certain constant end mass. I read somewhere that squirt rate was constant no matter the amount of force that is used. That would be interesting to know although I'm not sure I would agree until I"ve proven it at the table.
 
You fellows mathematically are little above my head but I understand the most of it.

Do you have any information as relates to the amount of squirt generated by a certain constant end mass. I read somewhere that squirt rate was constant no matter the amount of force that is used. That would be interesting to know although I'm not sure I would agree until I"ve proven it at the table.
Pretty hard for you to prove it - you'd need a perfectly level cue with your tip right at the CB's equator to eliminate swerve at all speeds. That's pretty much impossible on a normal table, but fortunately for us Dr. Dave has the setup for that and has done the work.

pj
chgo
 
You fellows mathematically are little above my head but I understand the most of it.

Do you have any information as relates to the amount of squirt generated by a certain constant end mass. I read somewhere that squirt rate was constant no matter the amount of force that is used. That would be interesting to know although I'm not sure I would agree until I"ve proven it at the table.

I thought the same too for a while Robin, but the more I looked into it and practiced / tested, the more I believe it's just misconception based on swerve, as the slower shots swerve to reduce the squirt angle.

Colin
 
Squirt and Swerve

I thought the same too for a while Robin, but the more I looked into it and practiced / tested, the more I believe it's just misconception based on swerve, as the slower shots swerve to reduce the squirt angle.

Colin

Colin,
Yes I have been coming around to thinking the same that speed is very important in the application of swerve. First the allowance and then swerve back. On inside English it appears to be very unforgiving as opposed to outside English shots because of the direction of English Spin itself I suppose. I will have to work some more with this.
 
Table with No Rails

Pretty hard for you to prove it - you'd need a perfectly level cue with your tip right at the CB's equator to eliminate swerve at all speeds. That's pretty much impossible on a normal table, but fortunately for us Dr. Dave has the setup for that and has done the work.

pj
chgo

PJ,
That would lead one to think the swerve and speed is much more a factor in figuring allowances for parallel applied English. I have taken into account some of that when applying parallel English however I have not been allowing for the swerve back or out into the equation when I shoot slower although it would make perfect sense when you consider one performs masse at slow speeds. Since pool tables have rails there will always be swerve. Do you have a link to the dr. dave info?
 
Colin,
Yes I have been coming around to thinking the same that speed is very important in the application of swerve. First the allowance and then swerve back. On inside English it appears to be very unforgiving as opposed to outside English shots because of the direction of English Spin itself I suppose. I will have to work some more with this.

Hi Robin,

Generally speaking, all slower longer shots with significant sidespin are last options, unless perhaps the player is very familiar with the particular conditions of temp, humidity, and the cloth slipperiness.

Intermediate shots, e.g. 2 foot slow and 6 feet medium-firm are more manageable, but also require some adjustment for local conditions.

Hence, using considerable side english is mainly the domain of firmer short to medium distance CB-OB shots.

This is true of parallel, FHE or BHE or any other method of applying english. For me, BHE has the most potential, but it does take a lot of work.

And whatever accuracy one acquires, a knowledge of how the various spins and speeds and the various angles effect THROW is crucial as well, if one is to be systematic and not just try to learn to feel all the various spins, speeds and cut angle possibilities. For this reason, even the pros tend to stick to a set range of shots that they have developed feel for.

FWIW: I have trialed some swerve adjustment systems and they can work well under constant temp, humidity, same table, but there is a lot of variability as one changes tables and conditions, so it's hard to present a useable system unless a player did various tests on each table at each time they played. So some knowledge and some experience is more efficacious.

Colin
 
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Swerve value

Hi Robin,

Generally speaking, all slower longer shots with significant sidespin are last options, unless perhaps the player is very familiar with the particular conditions of temp, humidity, and the cloth slipperiness.

Intermediate shots, e.g. 2 foot slow and 6 feet medium-firm are more manageable, but also require some adjustment for local conditions.

Hence, using considerable side english is mainly the domain of firmer short to medium distance CB-OB shots.

This is true of parallel, FHE or BHE or any other method of applying english. For me, BHE has the most potential, but it does take a lot of work.

And whatever accuracy one acquires, a knowledge of how the various spins and speeds and the various angles effect THROW is crucial as well, if one is to be systematic and not just try to learn to feel all the various spins, speeds and cut angle possibilities. For this reason, even the pros tend to stick to a set range of shots that they have developed feel for.

FWIW: I have trialed some swerve adjustment systems and they can work well under constant temp, humidity, same table, but there is a lot of variability as one changes tables and conditions, so it's hard to present a useable system unless a player did various tests on each table at each time they played. So some knowledge and some experience is more efficacious.

Colin

Colin,
I agree with your post. Taking information from it I would surmise that if one knew the general allowance for a particular shot at say Medium or firm speed that would remove the swerve that this information would be a baseline for shots that were slower or more cue elevation as both of those are said to impart more swerve and would cause you to think and make adjustment for such. Ive not been doing this on slow, jacked up shots and I think I should have been.

I do use a form of FHE/BHE in a great deal of my shots although I don't kick the backside of my cue off of the center ball lineup except on very firm shots. In so applying to a slow shot at a long distance say 4 to 6 diamonds Im not allowing much at all on these for swerve. I think that is due to the many times decreased elevation of the cue and the fact that a sideways adjustment without a parallel adjustment being applied. Where I use this is on long thin cut shots mostly. I like the dr dave description of FHE and its applications very much although I play already set up with my cue tip to the gearing point on the cue ball.

I have found that playing this way I have learned to make certain allowances from the center ball pot point to the point of not having to think about it much when playing a long set. Inside English and slow shots always present challenges.
 
I should add, that the 4mm figure, which I assumed for a 12mm tip, 6mm radius is a bit of a guess, based on my observations of miscue burn marks, more so than any accurate testing.

Perhaps others could proffer the maximum english offset on a tip, perhaps in terms of percentage of tip radius?
 
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I should add, that the 4mm figure, which I assumed for a 12mm tip, 6mm radius is a bit of a guess, based on my observations of miscue burn marks, more so than any accurate testing.

Perhaps others could proffer the maximum english offset on a tip, perhaps in terms of percentage of tip radius?
If the maximum miscue limit on the CB is 1/2 radius from center, then the tip must contact the CB the same 1/2 radius from center (assuming a regular curve on the tip). So for your 6mm radius (which I believe is smaller than reality), contact would be at 3mm from center (seen from straight on).

Here are the distances for American nickel and dime radii (seen from straight on):

Nickel = 10.6mm radius = 5.3mm offset
Dime = 9.0mm radius = 4.5mm offset

pj
chgo
 
If the maximum miscue limit on the CB is 1/2 radius from center, then the tip must contact the CB the same 1/2 radius from center (assuming a regular curve on the tip). So for your 6mm radius (which I believe is smaller than reality), contact would be at 3mm from center (seen from straight on).

Here are the distances for American nickel and dime radii (seen from straight on):

Nickel = 10.6mm radius = 5.3mm offset
Dime = 9.0mm radius = 4.5mm offset

pj
chgo
I can't fault that geometry PJ. What if the tip shape is elliptical, as in say a 16mm radius at the top graduating to a 6mm radius around the edge? Will this move the contact point for maximum CB offset further out or closer into the center of the tip? Having a struggle visualizing it.

Colin

Edit: I did a little paintbrushing and looks to me like an eliptical curve as described would contact the CB at a wider tip offset, where the tip angle relative to the CB is the same. See diagram attached.
 

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This is a cirular radius tip, which looks pretty typical, truncated at about 60% of the circle diameter.

The 50% offset line intersects the tip surface at very close to 80% of it's radius from my reasonably careful measurements. This would equate to my own 12mm tip width (6mm diameter) having a maximum offset of 6mm x 80% = 4.8mm.
 

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This is a cirular radius tip, which looks pretty typical, truncated at about 60% of the circle diameter.

The 50% offset line intersects the tip surface at very close to 80% of it's radius from my reasonably careful measurements. This would equate to my own 12mm tip width (6mm diameter) having a maximum offset of 6mm x 80% = 4.8mm.
Sorry, Colin, I'm not following you. Isn't it the radius of the tip's "top curvature" that matters? How is the radius of your tip/shaft's cross section relevant?

pj <- confusing me is no challenge
chgo

P.S. Also, you mean "6mm radius", right?
 
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