Question
- Thread starter Muxy
- Start date
I would have guessed the price most would charge to be in the $50 to $70 range depending on pin style and if they also put on rings. I used to charge $40 for cutting in half and installing a joint over 12 years ago.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
cueman said:
I do it all the time for $40.00 and use an alloy 3/8 x 10 pin so as to change the cue as little as possable. I just lightly sand the joint area to get a nice blend and buff it with a little paste wax. If they actually want the cue strayed with finish then it will be more. Most don't since they are looking for something cheap and don't really care that much. By the way, $40.00 isn't that cheap, I can do the job in like 20 to 30 minutes so it's pretty good money I would say.
I would never build a sneaky pete type joint with 3/8-10. I always use 5/16 pin in the butt and brass insert in shaft. I have seen too many shaft walls busted out from 3/8-10 pin with no joint rings. Actually I have quit building any cues without rings. The 3/8-10 would save some time and cost, but Muxy if you want 3/8-10 insist on joint rings.
DaveK said:
First this isn't just some bar cue. It is my dads girlfriends cue she went to this bar and learnt with this cue it was hers when she went there, so the first year she went there she got the Most Improved Player award they gave her a trophy and that cue she used all season with her Name ingraved in it. A Dufferin wont do this. It isn't the type of cue it is the sentemental reasoning behind it. It is one peice so it is hard to bring into a room without being reconized as a house cue that other people would use.
JazzNpooL said:
PM me thier contact details please, cheapest price i have heard so far.
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Chris Could you send me a PM i understand you are very knowlegable, if i would have someone do it I probably would choose you. PM me a price. Thanks
.muxY'
Muxy said:
Now it makes sense, sorry for any confusion. I was simply thinking that the cost of a 1 piece house cue plus the cost of modifications would take it over the cost of a new Phantom .... carry on ...
Are there not some cuemakers in northern New England area ? You're fairly close.
Dave
cueman said:
I agree rings should really be there but some guy with a cue he found in the bar he likes and just wants it cut in half, thats what they want. I don't know you drill a much larger hole to install an insert then for a 3/8 x10 pin. Either way the rings are the way to go.
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Yes, I likes them too, even on the 5/16 pin. I do have to agree that the 3/8 without rings is very risky, seen the results myself also, and they will blow out in a heartbeat due to the thin wall, But in all fairness, I have seen them hold up also. the sneakies I am doing, I am thinning the butt sections out quite a bit, so the 3/8 is too big for me, but I have seen some thick, dense house cues, that if not trimmed too much, may be alright with one installed.
personally if I used a sneaky design for actual play, it would be because I like the feel, and not so it looks like a common house cue, so the rings would not bother me, and is the way I would prefer them. even a very thin phenolic or other good material would do a world of good.5/16 seems the way to go on those for the most part. Back in the day I remember alot of people using the meucci sneakies, they were very popular, and basically were just 5/16x18 pin. IMO & from what I saw, they were some of their best shooting cues at the time it seemed. We sold a used one to a guy over ten years ago, and he still shoots with it today, he could have a nicer cue, but still chooses It, does pretty good with it too. My father just picked a purple heart up by a custom maker with a uni-loc, and I shot with it tonight, felt really good, and easy to switch to from another cue also.
I have not shot with the 5/16x14 in a sneaky, and I'm caught between using them or the 18 pins. Be interested in hearing any opinions on the best between those pins in sneakies. I would probably prefer the coarser in most cases these days, but wonder how much difference there would really be in a sneaky?
Muxy,
I think macguy hit on an important part that will make quite a bit difference in price for your situation. the "finish" - there may be other ways, but the only way I know to match a sneaky up close would be using another shaft to get a close diameter, and the cuemaker would have to be dead perfect with installation. otherwise, and most likely anyway, no matter how slight, there will probably be some sanding or trimming involved to match the pieces up due to the loss of material from the cutting blade width, incured from cutting it in two pieces. which would require a refinish in most cases, unless, like he said, the customer was not worried about it. if it's a nice cue, with a nice finish, and you want to keep that, then i would think to atleast count in the cost of refinishing the joint area if not more of the cue then that. That will also take more time to do. Just My opinion of something to consider with this. Good luck with it. Greg
personally if I used a sneaky design for actual play, it would be because I like the feel, and not so it looks like a common house cue, so the rings would not bother me, and is the way I would prefer them. even a very thin phenolic or other good material would do a world of good.5/16 seems the way to go on those for the most part. Back in the day I remember alot of people using the meucci sneakies, they were very popular, and basically were just 5/16x18 pin. IMO & from what I saw, they were some of their best shooting cues at the time it seemed. We sold a used one to a guy over ten years ago, and he still shoots with it today, he could have a nicer cue, but still chooses It, does pretty good with it too. My father just picked a purple heart up by a custom maker with a uni-loc, and I shot with it tonight, felt really good, and easy to switch to from another cue also.
I have not shot with the 5/16x14 in a sneaky, and I'm caught between using them or the 18 pins. Be interested in hearing any opinions on the best between those pins in sneakies. I would probably prefer the coarser in most cases these days, but wonder how much difference there would really be in a sneaky?
Muxy,
I think macguy hit on an important part that will make quite a bit difference in price for your situation. the "finish" - there may be other ways, but the only way I know to match a sneaky up close would be using another shaft to get a close diameter, and the cuemaker would have to be dead perfect with installation. otherwise, and most likely anyway, no matter how slight, there will probably be some sanding or trimming involved to match the pieces up due to the loss of material from the cutting blade width, incured from cutting it in two pieces. which would require a refinish in most cases, unless, like he said, the customer was not worried about it. if it's a nice cue, with a nice finish, and you want to keep that, then i would think to atleast count in the cost of refinishing the joint area if not more of the cue then that. That will also take more time to do. Just My opinion of something to consider with this. Good luck with it. Greg
Be warned a 2 piece cue with no rings will get grabbed up. I had a brand new Predator SPW get sanded down by some idiot thinking it was a bar cue. Also had a somewhat serious argument with another fool claiming he just wanted to break with it so as not to damage his pristene Budwiser cue.Muxy said:
Joint rings are worth the extra cost, I am thinking of adding them to the SPW even though I've had no problem with the joint itself.
The cuemaker I'm dealing with locally does the job perfectly. Its a piloted joint with brass insert for 40.00. Although not absolutely necessary, the joint area was lightly sanded to get a good blend and then a coat of satin wiping lacquer was applied to seal that area only (butt of cue has a satin finish already). I use this as a break cue.
I liked the results so much that I am now converting an exceptionally nice USA made Valley Supreme for use as a bar cue the same way. This time I'm adding a 1/2" phenolic butt plate, drill/tap for allen bolt weight adjustment, and a new tip for an extra $30.00. I'm also going to ask about the cost of blending an additional shaft that I sawed off another house cue so I can have 2 shafts.
Any decent cuemaker would be able to do your conversion Muxy. By using someone local you can save the cost of shipping. The guy I am having do the work does not ship.
Martin
I liked the results so much that I am now converting an exceptionally nice USA made Valley Supreme for use as a bar cue the same way. This time I'm adding a 1/2" phenolic butt plate, drill/tap for allen bolt weight adjustment, and a new tip for an extra $30.00. I'm also going to ask about the cost of blending an additional shaft that I sawed off another house cue so I can have 2 shafts.
Any decent cuemaker would be able to do your conversion Muxy. By using someone local you can save the cost of shipping. The guy I am having do the work does not ship.
Martin
Muxy said: