Questions on Fixing a stripped shaft

str8shooter

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I Recently got a sledgehammer 2 with a stripped radial pin shaft for repair work and was wondering what is the best way and material to use to fix this permanently without making a new shaft.I'm got somewhat of an idea how to do this and the correct tools,but want this to be a permanent and good repair being it's a ex-professionals break cue.

What type of adhesive or epoxy should be used and what size should the hole be drilled out to???Should the insert be threaded into the drilled shaft or just grooved for better adhesion.Any help would be greatly appreciated being this is my first repair like this and want to do it right.

Thanks
 
str8shooter said:
I Recently got a sledgehammer 2 with a stripped radial pin shaft for repair work and was wondering what is the best way and material to use to fix this permanently without making a new shaft.I'm got somewhat of an idea how to do this and the correct tools,but want this to be a permanent and good repair being it's a ex-professionals break cue.

What type of adhesive or epoxy should be used and what size should the hole be drilled out to???Should the insert be threaded into the drilled shaft or just grooved for better adhesion.Any help would be greatly appreciated being this is my first repair like this and want to do it right.

Thanks

I usually turn an old shaft dowell to .540 to .550 and cut a couple light rings around the dowell and score 4 or 5 light grooves along it's length around three inches long. I then drill out the shaft to .500 and 2.5" deep. At this point I use a boring bar to increase the 1/2" bore to a good fit for the dowell I had turned. I then glue in the dowell with any good epoxy usually west system. When dry, I trim the extra off the dowell, drill and tap.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I usually turn an old shaft dowell to .540 to .550 and cut a couple light rings around the dowell and score 4 or 5 light grooves along it's length around three inches long. I then drill out the shaft to .500 and 2.5" deep. At this point I use a boring bar to increase the 1/2" bore to a good fit for the dowell I had turned. I then glue in the dowell with any good epoxy usually west system. When dry, I trim the extra off the dowell, drill and tap.

Dick

Tap, Tap, usually works very well. I thread a plug.
str8shooter
Are you sure it's a radial pin, It may look like it but I don't think it is.
 
Michael Webb said:
Tap, Tap, usually works very well. I thread a plug.
str8shooter
Are you sure it's a radial pin, It may look like it but I don't think it is.
Sledge's radial pin is the imported variety. Same ones used on imported Varner and Omega cues.
Atlas's tap will not work with it.
Schmelke sells the pin and the tap.
 
Guess what tap I have:mad: ....i'm glad you mentioned that.
Is the tap your talking about the 3/8-8 from schmelke.Thanks for all the help
 
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str8shooter said:
Guess what tap I have:mad: ....i'm glad you mentioned that.
Is the tap your talking about the 3/8-8 from schmelke.Thanks for all the help
Yes.
The Uni Loc radial does not fit the imported radial pins. In fact, they shouldn't call them radial at all.
 
Tap, Tap, I just did one of these also, but it was a Standard Radial (Atlas One) and I actually made a plug with Phenolic. I really liked the hit also.
 
I prefer to use phenolic aswell....and using rhncues technique is the nuts for locking it in....
________
 
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I've done this type thing with other threads, and even used phenolic inserts like mentioned. I like to drill & tap the plugs/inserts, then put them between centers, and turn the OD. They usually go In nice and straight also. Greg
 
JoeyInCali said:
Yes.
The Uni Loc radial does not fit the imported radial pins. In fact, they shouldn't call them radial at all.
The Uni-lok ones are 3.5mm pitch or 7.257... tpi. I thread and channel the insert too 'coz those radial pins have a large contact surface that can rotate unthreaded inserts.
 
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Another way that I have used before is the same process as described before except I will use Cocobola or Ebony for the plug. After they are tapped, you shouldn't have any problems of these harder woods stripping out.
Chris
 
Stripped Shft

each way that has been talked about here will work well.
Here is what I do. I bore a 7/16 hole in the shaft then using a 1/2X13 bottom tap tap the hole. I then thread some phenolic rod 1/2X13 cut two grooves down the side so the gllue can squeeze through and fill any pockets. Then I use the 30 min epoxy to glue up the plug. What is nice about threading the plug and hole is that you can pull it up tight to the bottom of the hole with no air pockets. Let it dry face it off drill and tap your hole. I find that for the Sledge hammer cues that the 3/8X8 is the tap you need for the job.
This is what works good for me.
David
 
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