quick question....
- Thread starter seven
- Start date
Just leave the bumper in the cue instead of tearing it up and put your concave live center up against the bumper when spinning the cue in the lathe. If the ferrule is solid capped you can be about 95% sure it is threaded. But to remove the ferrule get a thick piece of leather. Spin the lathe pretty fast in reverse while mashing the leather on the ferrule. This will heat up the glue in about 30 seconds and it will either slip off, melt, or thread off. Then your threads are not filled with glue and ferrule material. Run your tenon threader over the threads to clean them up and you are ready to put the new ferrule on.seven said:how can you tell if a ferulle is threaded or not?
also how do you remove a glued on bumper without ripping it.
I'm about ready to rewrap my cue and I have a glued on bumper. when I try to force it off, it looks like its ripping.
Chris
www.interantionalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
cool.... I'll do that. is this how you would remove a slipped on ferrule also?
reason why I ask is because. I've encountered a couple of shafts that do not have a capped ferrule, but are still threaded. and I could not tell if it was threaded or not just by looking at the end of the shaft (without the tip).
so I proceded with turning down the ferrule only to find out that it was indeed threaded. maybe I could use the heat method to remove all ferrules. just in case. what do you think?
reason why I ask is because. I've encountered a couple of shafts that do not have a capped ferrule, but are still threaded. and I could not tell if it was threaded or not just by looking at the end of the shaft (without the tip).
so I proceded with turning down the ferrule only to find out that it was indeed threaded. maybe I could use the heat method to remove all ferrules. just in case. what do you think?
Chris, off-topic if I may.
Are you planning to make saw taper machines in the future?
Are you planning to make saw taper machines in the future?
No but I am in the process of making a tapering machine that usues the router. It will work on German linear motion rail and American linear motion bottom cross-slide. Been using the proto type for several months and am really happy with it. Too much liability on the saw machine.JoeyInCali said:
CHris
Sounds like a great project.cueman said:
Perski motors are out of the question.
Maybe use a quieter Makita router.
cueman said:
Do you have stepper motors on it? or does it work from a taper bar? What makes a saw machine more liability than a router style one? I have 3 ways of tapering, including a saw machine, and I feel safest using the saw machine. Mostly because I am almost NEVER in the same plane as the blade, where with the router, I am ALWAYS in the plane of the blade.
JoeyInCali said:
Joey,
Here are a few pictures of a saw machine that I am just about finished with.
http://www.murraytucker.com/table_saw_machine.htm
sliprock said:
W.W. Grainger #4Z612. They have several other rpm's in that same line.
I don't want to hijack Seven's thread any more so if anyone has any other questions please pm me or start another thread.
saw/lathe
Hi Slip,
I build and sell a dual-headed saw/lathe.This machine can be mechanical or CNC.
It will turn cut two shafts or two butts at the same time or one each, at the same time. Cycle time is about 6.5 minutes. This can be changed by changing sprockets to be faster or slower.
If you or anyone else is interested, PM me or call me @ 830-232-5991 , and I'll e-mail pictures.. The dual-headed machine sells for $5,500.00.[for the mechanical model]..the CNC sells for $9,500.00.......
It's very quite, and leaves the cue butt or shaft very smooth. No vibration, and no noise.
blud
sliprock said:
Hi Slip,
I build and sell a dual-headed saw/lathe.This machine can be mechanical or CNC.
It will turn cut two shafts or two butts at the same time or one each, at the same time. Cycle time is about 6.5 minutes. This can be changed by changing sprockets to be faster or slower.
If you or anyone else is interested, PM me or call me @ 830-232-5991 , and I'll e-mail pictures.. The dual-headed machine sells for $5,500.00.[for the mechanical model]..the CNC sells for $9,500.00.......
It's very quite, and leaves the cue butt or shaft very smooth. No vibration, and no noise.
blud
sliprock said:
If you're doing any machine building, I would first recommend that you check out the "Surplus Center" www.surpluscenter.com before doing much of the actual planning. You'd be surprised what's available in the way of motors, bearings and other things at a fraction of the normal retail cost. I generally get an idea in my head and design the machine around readily available & surplus parts. You can save a lot of money this way.
I see that you're in Kentucky. Depending on what part, you may be pretty close to me. I'm on the Ohio River just east of Cincinnati. If you're interested in looking at my saw machine or visiting my shop, send me a PM and make an appointment. Don't want to sound huffy, but I work out of my home and don't appreciate unannounced visits. I'm not always in the "shop mode" and like to know in advance if someone's coming by, but I'm pretty flexable. I may even have an extra gear motor or 2 laying around the shop. I bought a couple from Grainger, when I had to have it _then_ , but even with my discount, they're pretty high!
Sherm
sherm@shermcue.com
Fingers. You mess up with your saw machine and you lose them, so I won't build saw machines for anyone but myself. I won't be using the large wing cutters on my router either. 3/4" straight bit with variable speed motors for the spindle and lead screw. And it will use interchangable taper bars.Sheldon said:
cueman said:
I just got an NSK air spindle for my cnc, (55,000 RPM) and putting an inch and seven eighths three wing cutter on it is really scary.
I might try a straight bit, can you get a smooth cut with them? http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5724
does the above page have a bit that you would recommend trying?
Sheldon said:I just got an NSK air spindle for my cnc, (55,000 RPM) and putting an inch and seven eighths three wing cutter on it is really scary.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5724
does the above page have a bit that you would recommend trying?
Sheldon,
I'm not really sure if the bit could handle 55K rpm but I use a straight bit for cutting too. Mine runs approx. 23k-26k rpm and with a slow spindle rpm (60-80) and a slow feed rate I could produce real smooth cuts with it. I use a 1/2 shank. 1/4 shanks are kind of scary.
