rail work and UPS

[Chili Palmer]

The chances of it getting lost are probably higher than the chance of not finding new ones.

I guarantee RealKingCobra (RKC) would be able to hook you up, if he isn't already involved in your process.

 

[Hoogaar]

Something to consider: many local installers may only be proficient in setting up a table and installing cloth (if anything..). Because of this, many opt to send their rails to a qualified technician, for any number of advanced modification.

As for the modifications:
Pool table cushions are mounted on an angled surface. This angled surface is what controls the nose height of the cushion, which has a huge impact on the way that the balls rebound from the cushion.

Older Brunswick tables, prior to the mid-1970's, used a cushion profile that is no longer made. Because of this, the old rails require a change to this angular surface, in order to accept a modern day cushion profile. Unfortunately, while the change could be made by running the rail down a table saw, it won't necessarily produce the best results.. As such, those of us who perform quality rail modifications will have custom-made tooling, which allow very precise modification.

In addition to changing the angle of the cushion mounting surface, it will also be necessary to adjust the height of the sub-rail (the top side of the cushion mounting block). This provides consistency across the rail set, as they could vary. While the work is performed, the tooling allows for the rails to be bolted down, the same as if they were mounted on a pool table. This ensures that the modifications will be "perfect" when the rails are installed on the table.

After the rails have been modified to accept a modern-day cushion, the pocket work is performed. A good technician will know which angles to cut the ends of the rails, to create the desired play effect.

Lastly, the technician will likely be very proficient in covering rails, with a high level of quality.

These are only the basics....

Keep in mind, many of these old rails could be beat up from repeated recoverings, and poor execution by past installers. It could be necessary to completely replace the sub-rail, which is not a job for amateurs.

Also, most of the technicians performing this level of work will also replace the floating nut inserts (Gold Crown II+) or the figure 8 nut plate (Gold Crown I) with a Stafast threaded insert, which is much more robust.

Lol - awesome. That’s about as good of a reply as I could have hoped for! Thanks for teaching me a little something today. Cheers!

 

[Lawnboy77]

Something to consider: many local installers may only be proficient in setting up a table and installing cloth (if anything..). Because of this, many opt to send their rails to a qualified technician, for any number of advanced modification.

As for the modifications:
Pool table cushions are mounted on an angled surface. This angled surface is what controls the nose height of the cushion, which has a huge impact on the way that the balls rebound from the cushion.

Older Brunswick tables, prior to the mid-1970's, used a cushion profile that is no longer made. Because of this, the old rails require a change to this angular surface, in order to accept a modern day cushion profile. Unfortunately, while the change could be made by running the rail down a table saw, it won't necessarily produce the best results.. As such, those of us who perform quality rail modifications will have custom-made tooling, which allow very precise modification.

In addition to changing the angle of the cushion mounting surface, it will also be necessary to adjust the height of the sub-rail (the top side of the cushion mounting block). This provides consistency across the rail set, as they could vary. While the work is performed, the tooling allows for the rails to be bolted down, the same as if they were mounted on a pool table. This ensures that the modifications will be "perfect" when the rails are installed on the table.

After the rails have been modified to accept a modern-day cushion, the pocket work is performed. A good technician will know which angles to cut the ends of the rails, to create the desired play effect.

Lastly, the technician will likely be very proficient in covering rails, with a high level of quality.

These are only the basics....

Keep in mind, many of these old rails could be beat up from repeated recoverings, and poor execution by past installers. It could be necessary to completely replace the sub-rail, which is not a job for amateurs.

Also, most of the technicians performing this level of work will also replace the floating nut inserts (Gold Crown II+) or the figure 8 nut plate (Gold Crown I) with a Stafast threaded insert, which is much more robust.

Yeah this post deserves more than just an emoji! Most excellent Geoff! Thank you sir!

 

[pocket]

Do you think the UPS clerk knows the value? If you tell them replacement value is $5,000 they will insure for $5,000.

They may insure it for the 5k, doesn't mean they're gonna pay out 5k.

 

[bignick31985]

They may insure it for the 5k, doesn't mean they're gonna pay out 5k.

My argument would be a pool table is worth zero dollars without rails. Whether that'd hold up or not, I hope to never find out, lol.

I know I double boxed, bubble wrapped, double taped until I was certain that box couldn't be destroyed unless it was intentional and everything made it to and from ok.

 

[Timkrieger]

probably a stupid question, but I'll ask anyway. I see a lot of people that have sent their rails in to a few different well regarded guys to "get them done" - what exactly is it that they do that is so special?

I know absolutely nothing about table set up or table mechanics or anything like that. As such, I have a hard time imagining what they could possibly do to for it to be worth the investment. I'm guessing you're looking at close to $1000 for shipping to and fro plus the work? Maybe even more?

Bradsh98 covered this pretty well for sure. I'll add a few before and after pictures of my Centennial rails, this table is nearly 70 years old. My Centennial is a 10 footer. 5" standard original pockets. The table was beautiful in the original condition, but I wanted to fully restore it and while doing that, I wanted to have the rails done to get it to play better and I wanted 4.5" corners and tighter side pockets to make it play tougher. Besides having the subrails rebuilt, pockets tightened, nut plates changed out, I had the rosewood rails fully refinished to match the overall refinish of the table. So, this is now an heirloom quality pool table that will play better than any most anything out there.

 

[fastone371]

Bradsh98 covered this pretty well for sure. I'll add a few before and after pictures of my Centennial rails, this table is nearly 70 years old. My Centennial is a 10 footer. 5" standard original pockets. The table was beautiful in the original condition, but I wanted to fully restore it and while doing that, I wanted to have the rails done to get it to play better and I wanted 4.5" corners and tighter side pockets to make it play tougher. Besides having the subrails rebuilt, pockets tightened, nut plates changed out, I had the rosewood rails fully refinished to match the overall refinish of the table. So, this is now an heirloom quality pool table that will play better than any most anything out there.

Looks fricken beautiful!!!!!!

 

[fastone371]

The chances of it getting lost are probably higher than the chance of not finding new ones.

I guarantee RealKingCobra (RKC) would be able to hook you up, if he isn't already involved in your process.

The problem was at least in my case is how do you find pristine GCI rails??? My table was in a private residence its entire life, the only time the table was even recovered was the one time it was moved. It had very low hours of use, I gotta think a table like this is a pretty rare find much less finding a set of rails like that.

 

[The_JV]

Of course the clerk doesn’t.

They will charge you to insure it for $5000, but when it comes time to make a claim the insurance company/department knows the value…

Just because I insure a box of Kleenex for $10,000, doesn’t mean that when it goes missing that’s what I get paid, even if I paid the cost of $10,000 worth of insurance.

Interesting debate....

So if they lose the rails, for argument sake. What do you think would be cheaper. To have someone hand build you a finished replacement set of rails. ...or replace the table.?

One of the best ways to write off a 'less than new' car these days is to completely destroy the power bucket car seats....lol

 

[dendweller]

My argument would be a pool table is worth zero dollars without rails. Whether that'd hold up or not, I hope to never find out, lol.

I know I double boxed, bubble wrapped, double taped until I was certain that box couldn't be destroyed unless it was intentional and everything made it to and from ok.

I'd think in a case like this they would do some investigating into what the used value of the item is and hopefully stumble over the fact that you can't readily find them, without buying the entire table.