Random Cuemaker question

USACEMcCoy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Most custom cues come with 2 shafts. I have a cue on order currently. Do any people ever request one pro taper shaft, and one for snooker? Is there anything wrong with having one shaft cut down to a smaller diameter?



The reason I ask, is that I shoot golf, Snooker and a couple other games on snooker tables and I thought it would be kinda handy.
 
You would be much better served with a 3rd shaft. That way you still have an extra for pool games.
 
A fourth shaft (you know 2 of each) would not be unrealistic if you are playing lots of each type of billiard games. Your skill level and pocketbook answers which choice you make. Switching back and forth may be an issue if you gamble on each.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues
 
It depends on how readily available cue repair is too you. If your pool room has a lathe in house, so you can get a tip instantly if you trash the tip on your main shaft then two different shafts is fine. If no local proshop, and if you would never want to be down without a normal pool playing shaft then a third shaft is the better option.
 
As far as handy , you are right. I do lot's of snooker repairs and building and have lot's of requests like this.
Problem is , the thinner you go on your diameter , the more prone to warping the shaft is. That is why you see snooker shafts with the progressive taper on them. Not small and then blow up quickly at the joint. This helps in stablizing the shaft from warping.
I do build them , and use a progressive taper on my shafts as well. Not as drastic as say production snooker cues , but a nice taper to be non warp friendly if you will.
But having a 3rd shaft built is the way to go, but is more cost. But it has to be done the right way. I am sure if you talk to you cuebuilder , he can hook you up, always cheaper to have one built during construction of a new cue. Much easier to match up also.
Thanx,
Jim
 
J&D CUSTOMS said:
As far as handy , you are right. I do lot's of snooker repairs and building and have lot's of requests like this.
Problem is , the thinner you go on your diameter , the more prone to warping the shaft is. That is why you see snooker shafts with the progressive taper on them. Not small and then blow up quickly at the joint. This helps in stablizing the shaft from warping.
I do build them , and use a progressive taper on my shafts as well. Not as drastic as say production snooker cues , but a nice taper to be non warp friendly if you will.
But having a 3rd shaft built is the way to go, but is more cost. But it has to be done the right way. I am sure if you talk to you cuebuilder , he can hook you up, always cheaper to have one built during construction of a new cue. Much easier to match up also.
Thanx,
Jim

Jim I completely agree with what you have said above. But I have made a few snooker shafts from Purple Heart, due to it's stiffness. Some people appear to have no problem with the difference in color. Also by taking it down for Snooker will reduce the over all weight to an aceptable level.
 
Back
Top