Recommended trim router bit

[muskyed]

Just wondering what style of cutter would be the best for me to use to turn sq butt stock round? I have a full assortment of bits in my shop, but mostly 1/2" so will just purchase a new one once I know the style preferred. As some of you may have seen on my other posts I have recently upgraded my Mid America lathe to their professional model and have also just received their power feed with their Bosch trim router and mount. For me this is just another personal challenge that I would like to attempt.
Also,

as to live centers, any idea where I can get a spring loaded one similar looking to this one that Mid America sells? Theirs is not spring loaded and similar ones I have seen on youtube are.

 

[Kim Bye]

3 or 6 wing cutter is definitely most common. Maybe buy some straight two blade cutters for the initial rough passes, so you don't wear out your $60 6 wing cutter so fast.

 

[muskyed]

Thanks, I was thinking that the winged cutters were what to use, but was concerned as to the initial passes. Straight bit makes sense.

 

[tg_vegas]

Thanks, I was thinking that the winged cutters were what to use, but was concerned as to the initial passes. Straight bit makes sense.

It also saves a lot of time, dust, and router bit wear if you knock off the corners of the square with a band saw or table saw, effectively turning the square into an octagon, before you start with the router. Just my two cents.

 

[muskyed]

Guess I could just put the wood on my wood lathe also to knock the corners off. Would just take seconds for me. Don't know why I didnt think of that.
Thanks

 

[slim123]

Don't waste the 6 wing on roughing, i sent you a pm I Use the cheaper str8 2 side bit and i use an indexer to cut the 4 corners, maybe, until i feel they are close, then i turn it until everything is as large as i can keep it, yet round.
If you are good on the wood lathe , that might be your avenue. I was at Wood Crafters the other day, and i saw a gentlemanturn turn an aluminum block to round on a wood lathe.

 

[Hard Knock Cues]

It also saves a lot of time, dust, and router bit wear if you knock off the corners of the square with a band saw or table saw, effectively turning the square into an octagon, before you start with the router. Just my two cents.

I like starting with 2" x 2" stock squared up. Made a sled to hold it and rip the corners off with a table saw and use them for points. Minimal waste and get the most out of nice wood.

 

[slim123]

I like starting with 2" x 2" stock squared up. Made a sled to hold it and rip the corners off with a table saw and use them for points. Minimal waste and get the most out of nice wood.

It is a good idea, but i cut most of my stock from planks and most are 1.5 thick, so i use a doweling sled and make them dowels, takes about 2 minutes

 

[Michael Webb]

It also saves a lot of time, dust, and router bit wear if you knock off the corners of the square with a band saw or table saw, effectively turning the square into an octagon, before you start with the router. Just my two cents.

It all comes down to imagination.
Band saw sled with centers.

 

[muskyed]

Thanks all. As I have a very large lathe setup and am very proficient at it, I will probably try that avenue first. If not, just use a straight bit.
For now this is just a personal challenge for me and if it sparks my interest, would probably make maybe one cue a yr. I can see where your premade sleds and such would be great for your needs.
For shafts I would just be using a shaft from Jacoby as they are close and I really like their shafts.
Besides I'm too old to go through the shaft making process.

 

[Coos Cues]

People say don't waste your 6 blade cutters on roughing. I would take it a step further and say don't waste your money on 6 blade cutters in the first place. @20k rpm 3 blades are more than enough and cost a fraction of the price. Even 3 blade cutters rarely cut even with all three blades much less 6 blade. You generally have a one or two blade cutter with 4 or 5 counter weights.

 

[rack runner]

following. i think most like the multiple wing due to surface finish...but ya like coo and others have said before, unless you can zero all the blades/wings, only a few might actially be cutting. also need to make sure it is concetric around the arbor as well, to throw another monkey in

 

[kgoods]

Also,View attachment 726070 as to live centers, any idea where I can get a spring loaded one similar looking to this one that Mid America sells? Theirs is not spring loaded and similar ones I have seen on youtube are.

As for the spring loaded center.... I use this one https://cuemakersupply.com/spring-loaded-60-live-center/ .

Says it has 3-5 thou runout but I've never actually measured it and haven't had any issues cutting shafts with it. I run a dead center at the headstock holding the joint end and this at the tailstock, makes cutting several shafts much quicker. If I need dead nuts I run a dead center at both ends.

 

[Coos Cues]

As for the spring loaded center.... I use this one https://cuemakersupply.com/spring-loaded-60-live-center/ .

Says it has 3-5 thou runout but I've never actually measured it and haven't had any issues cutting shafts with it. I run a dead center at the headstock holding the joint end and this at the tailstock, makes cutting several shafts much quicker. If I need dead nuts I run a dead center at both ends.

I took mine apart and put a slightly stiffer spring it it. I feel this gives a more consistent pressure throughout the range of travel of the center inside itself.