Refinishing a Palmer cue

mreightball

mreightball

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Silver Member
Hello Guys & Girls: Maybe someone can give me some ideas on refinishing
a cue stick as all I basicly do is tips, ferrules , and wraps. I have an old palmer that has the finish cracking and peeling.
1 - What is the process for removing the old finish?
2 - What product should the stick be coated with.
I was thinking of an auto clear coat but maybe this isn't the way to go. Any ideas on this will help.
Also when refinishing the cue should it be spinning or could you just hang it and spray it. Also Is there a way of brushing a finish on if you don't have a way to spray it on?
Thanks
Ron
 
i think you should prsctice on a sneeky pete house cue ect. auto clear IMO is the best way. dont mess with uv. you will need alot of equiptment. spray gun compressor ect. and yes you spin it.

also its toxic.

if its just a refinish you want scot at proficient is like 120$ and 10 days.

the finish to me atleast is the hardest part of cuemaking
 
I'm working on a booth that spins the cues, but currently I don't spin them.

If all you want to do is spray one cue though, you will probably be better off paying somebody to do it for you. My gun cost a lot more than what you would pay somebody and I buy the smallest sizes of finish which is about $60 each time.

It's not easy. If you use crappy equipment, it's even harder. Like Dave said, you definitely should practice first.

I was using a $30 gun and thought it was good enough. I'd have out gassing problems on nearly every cue. The gun was never consistent. I got a nice gun and I start sanding with 2000 grit and buff them out and I'm still not spinning the cues when I spray them.
 
Hello again:
I appreciate the input. I own a Body Shop and have all the equipment needed to do the spraying so thanks for the information. What I wanted to know is what is used to strip the material off the cue. Its easy to take things to someone else to do but the challenge is in doing it yourself. I would like answers to the questions I asked.
Thanks again
Ron
 
Ron,
As far as stripping the old finish from the cue, readily available house-hold grade paint strippers work well but keep it away from any plastic components on the cue. The stripper attacks plastic like it does finish. The stripper will soften the finish to a point where it can be removed easily.

There are some on here that will swear by the razor-blade method, where the finish is 'shaved' away while the cue is spinning. I'm NOT one of them nor will I suggest or support this method. It's dangerous to both you and the cue. I've had 2 mis-haps using this method and will never use the razor again. You'll spend days repairing the damage that the razor can cause though it's proponents claim it to be 'quick & easy'. Drawn-out disaster would be my take. Forget the debate, I've learned my lesson.

Now for the finish. The choice of many, including myself, is acrylic-urethane (auto-clear). Since you are in the business of shooting finish, this should be a 'no-brainer' for you. Spin the cue at slow to semi-slow speed and shoot a base coat, let it flash and shoot some more. Try to avoid heavy coats, meaning, don't try and do it all in one session. Several sessions of light coats, wet-sanding btwn. sessions will give you the results you seek. Once cured, buff & polish to your desired gloss.
 
KJ Cues said:
Ron,
As far as stripping the old finish from the cue, readily available house-hold grade paint strippers work well but keep it away from any plastic components on the cue. The stripper attacks plastic like it does finish. The stripper will soften the finish to a point where it can be removed easily.

There are some on here that will swear by the razor-blade method, where the finish is 'shaved' away while the cue is spinning. I'm NOT one of them nor will I suggest or support this method. It's dangerous to both you and the cue. I've had 2 mis-haps using this method and will never use the razor again. You'll spend days repairing the damage that the razor can cause though it's proponents claim it to be 'quick & easy'. Drawn-out disaster would be my take. Forget the debate, I've learned my lesson.

Now for the finish. The choice of many, including myself, is acrylic-urethane (auto-clear). Since you are in the business of shooting finish, this should be a 'no-brainer' for you. Spin the cue at slow to semi-slow speed and shoot a base coat, let it flash and shoot some more. Try to avoid heavy coats, meaning, don't try and do it all in one session. Several sessions of light coats, wet-sanding btwn. sessions will give you the results you seek. Once cured, buff & polish to your desired gloss.
Click to expand...
KJ
Thanks for that pertinent information. Really appreciate it.
Do you find any particular brand clear better then others? I know what works on metal but not on wood. Is a stripper like aircraft stripper good or too strong?
Ron
 
Last edited:
dave sutton said:
i think you should prsctice on a sneeky pete house cue ect. auto clear IMO is the best way. dont mess with uv. you will need alot of equiptment. spray gun compressor ect. and yes you spin it.

also its toxic.

if its just a refinish you want scot at proficient is like 120$ and 10 days.

the finish to me atleast is the hardest part of cuemaking
Click to expand...

Are you familiar with proficient? What does he use to strip the cue finish?
Is he here on AZ? If so what does he go by?
I see your are from NJ what part I used to live in Bayonne.
Thanks Dave
Ron
 
mreightball said:
Are you familiar with proficient? What does he use to strip the cue finish?
Is he here on AZ? If so what does he go by?
I see your are from NJ what part I used to live in Bayonne.
Thanks Dave
Ron
Click to expand...
yes anyone will tell you proficient is great not sure of his method but I can tell you it will be perfect. I use the razorblade method. It does take practice and patience. If you can spray a car you can spray a cue.
 
mreightball said:
KJ
Thanks for that pertinent information. Really appreciate it.
Do you find any particular brand clear better then others? I know what works on metal but not on wood. Is a stripper like aircraft stripper good or too strong?
Ron
Click to expand...

I stripper too strong will also attack epoxy.
 
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