Refinishing skirt on Gold Crown

O

onepocketron

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I finally found a 9 footer in my price range ($700). It was a table that was in a college recreation room. It appears this table (I believe it is a Gold Crown II) has several coats of paint on it (looks like the first was cream, then red, now black). I wanted to strip the paint off to the bar wood. If anyone has any experience in this I would appreciate sharing it with me. Would it make sense to do this before the table is reassembled or just as easy to do it after table is set up.

My second question has to do with the nickel plated tops that go over the corner and side pockets. These are not in great shape, it appears it got so much play that he nickel is worn off almost completely. Does anyone know of a way to recondition them, if not, what would a new set cost (approximately) to just replace them.

Overall the slate, cushions, and the "meat" of the table appear to be in very good condition, as well as the top of the rails are very good as well, cosmetic issues with skirt, legs, and nickel plated corner/side pieces seem to be the only draw back. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
You will have success removing the old paint with a chemical stripper first. Then sand till the wood is smooth and ready to paint or stain. This work should be done while the skirts are not on the table.

The corner castings, may be able to be polished as is, depends on what kind of metal they are. Others on this forum have had success with painting, powder coating or re-chroming the castings. It all depends on your skill, or what vendors you have in your area that can accomplish this.

You can also replace the castings a search on the internet will show options.
 
I sanded my skirts with 80 grit d/a then went to 180 grit after paint was off. The Brunswick paint was pretty tough but it all came off fine. If you plan to stain the skirts you will probably have a tough time getting stain to soak in cause the skirts are Maple. I ended up sanding with 120 grit to take care of stain problem. It turned out to be almost a perfect match between rails and skirts. There are pics of it in my profile.
 
Gold crown II

onepocketron said:
I finally found a 9 footer in my price range ($700). It was a table that was in a college recreation room. It appears this table (I believe it is a Gold Crown II) has several coats of paint on it (looks like the first was cream, then red, now black). I wanted to strip the paint off to the bar wood. If anyone has any experience in this I would appreciate sharing it with me. Would it make sense to do this before the table is reassembled or just as easy to do it after table is set up.

My second question has to do with the nickel plated tops that go over the corner and side pockets. These are not in great shape, it appears it got so much play that he nickel is worn off almost completely. Does anyone know of a way to recondition them, if not, what would a new set cost (approximately) to just replace them.

Overall the slate, cushions, and the "meat" of the table appear to be in very good condition, as well as the top of the rails are very good as well, cosmetic issues with skirt, legs, and nickel plated corner/side pieces seem to be the only draw back. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...


https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=260358

When I redone my table I sanded the skirts with a belt sander and then an orbital sander finishing with a final hand sanding, then unused a pretreatment to moisten the super dry maple skirts and then applied a red mahogany stain. More than happy with the results.

If you are serious about wanting a great playing table then research rail
Calibration. I am sure you have played on shimmed Gold Crowns, that if you play a ball down the rail with speed it jaws. 90 percent of the time it isn't because you hit it bad it is because the mechanic that shimmed the pockets screwed up the angles, that is also the reason for the infamous Olhausen Death Rattle. Their are a handful of mechanics on the forum that can do the rail work required to get your table to play great. Between rechroming and powder coating I went with powder coat as it was less than half for everything to get done, compared to chrome, or even copper which is what I really wanted. Good luck with your project.
 
Last edited:
Poolhalljunkie said:
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=260358

When I redone my table I sanded the skirts with a belt sander and then an orbital sander finishing with a final hand sanding, then unused a pretreatment to moisten the super dry maple skirts and then applied a red mahogany stain. More than happy with the results.

If you are serious about wanting a great playing table then research rail
Calibration. I am sure you have played on shimmed Gold Crowns, that if you play a ball down the rail with speed it jaws. 90 percent of the time it isn't because you hit it bad it is because the mechanic that shimmed the pockets screwed up the angles, that is also the reason for the infamous Olhausen Death Rattle. Their are a handful of mechanics on the forum that can do the rail work required to get your table to play great. Between rechroming and powder coating I went with powder coat as it was less than half for everything to get done, compared to chrome, or even copper which is what I really wanted. Good luck with your project.
Click to expand...

Gold Crown 3 castings you can have them power coated, but if its a 1 or 2 you can take 320 wet/dry sandpaper and wd40 and sand the dings out. then finish off with a 1000 wet/dry and then polish the metal to a bright finish. it will take some work but it will look good. or you can just replace them if you want to spend the money.
 
I used chemical stripper for my gold crown and painted it original baby blue and white. I have casting available with the ash tray for $200 a set.
 
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