removing a pin

[Poulos Cues]

This thread could have been titled a little differently IMO

Like, "What are a few different ways to remove a pin and install a new one? And which do you prefer and why? I have a butt with a bent pin...."

From the info provided, which all are revelvant in their respects, I now have a few different things to try- VERY INFORMATIVE:smile:

The putty around the joint thing sounded real good too...

Won't a soldering iron on the end of a pin work just as well?

Or......You could just straighten the bent pin.
But I guess that would be too simple.
Not enough drama.

Dickie mentioned his way, what is yours?:wink:

Regards,
-Chris

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Won't a soldering iron on the end of a pin work just as well?

Regards,
-Chris

This is the way I've been doing it and like the success I've had.

40W soldering iron....has a one inch long and approx 1/8" dia head....
I cut the pin allowing just enough to grab it with some self locking pliers....
I drill into the end of the pin with a bit just big enough to allow the iron head to slide inside.......
Plug in and wait about 5 minutes.......
What I like about doing it this way is I can pick up the cue and put pressure on the pin while the iron is still inside the hole applying the heat...
After about 5 minutes of just leaving it sit I then apply the pressure approx every 30-45 seconds until it breaks loose.
I believe by doing it this way the heat is transferred from the inside of the pin moving out and one has better control over the amount of heat applied have minimized the possibly of too much heat.
I've done this on cues only with phenolic collars but with the aid of some type of cooling around the collar would not be afraid to attempt it on ivory.
I would only attempt this if straightening it wasn't an option.

 

[rhncue]

I have done many pin removals basically the same way as Berry recommended. The process was first described by Thomas Wayne on RSB in the late nineties. Cut the pin off short, with a sharp bit, Drill a 1/8" hole about half way into the pin, Take the next size drill bit and drill to half the depth of the previous holes depth. Now remove drill bit from chuck, reverse so that shank of bit can slide into the hole, put lathe in reverse and with tail stock released from bed so that it can slide you put a little pressure against the back of the tail stock so that the drills stem makes contact in the bottom of the hole. This will cause friction and heat quickly breaking down the glue. When the bit gets red, release the pressure on the back of the tail stock. When the pressure is released the bit and stud will cool allowing the bit to weld itself to the pin and since the lathe is in reverse and the tail stock is not locked down, the pin will screw itself out.

Since all of this takes place fairly quickly there is not much chance of the heat to transfer to the cue itself so that little if any damage occurs.

Dick

 

[Michael Webb]

For those that choose to drill, I would suggest left handed drill bits, run the lathe in reverse. Usually when the pin is hot enough to break the bond, it comes right out. Like everything else, it has it's danger points.