removing joint pin insert

D

dendweller

Well-known member
I want to remove a 5/16 18 insert from a shaft. I've read some posts about using a bolt and two nuts.
I gave it a try and when a attempt to back it out after heating it the bolt just loosens.

I'm thinking that I either don't have it tight enough or I need to remove a bit of the face so that the nut is only contacting the insert.

I'm definitely missing something in this process, any help would be appreciated.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Drill and bore it out.
Re-plug with a 9/16 phenolic.
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slim123 said:
great idea
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probably is if you have a more heavy duty lathe than I have, I think I'll try to burn that thing our of there. If it doesn't work out I have too many shafts anyway.
I tried drilling one out a few years ago. It didn't go real well, ended up pitching the shaft. That's why the idea of a bolt with two nuts had my interest. I've torched out pins and removed quite a few golf club heads that way, figured it was worth a try.
 
So I did a couple of these, put a 5/16 bolt in the insert, heated with a small torch and turned them out with an easy out.

I may have a chance to buy back an older 314 I sold to someone 20 years ago. It has a 5/16 18 insert that I'd want to remove. My quesiton is, given the prodators are laminated, is there a chance you're going to mess up the glue on the laminations by heating the insert to melt the epoxy.
 
Fold a paper towel into about an inch wide strip and wrap it around the joint. Get it good and wet and it will help keep the wood and trim cool.
I put a pin in a vise and heat it up, then screw the insert onto it to heat the insert. This keeps your torch (if that's what you're using) away from the shaft.
Easy out or a flat screwdriver will let you unscrew it once the glue dissolves. Heat it up somewhat gradually so you don't over do it.
 
dendweller said:
I want to remove a 5/16 18 insert from a shaft. I've read some posts about using a bolt and two nuts.
I gave it a try and when a attempt to back it out after heating it the bolt just loosens.

I'm thinking that I either don't have it tight enough or I need to remove a bit of the face so that the nut is only contacting the insert.

I'm definitely missing something in this process, any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Do you know what the threads on the uniloc joints are?
 
Sheldon said:
Fold a paper towel into about an inch wide strip and wrap it around the joint. Get it good and wet and it will help keep the wood and trim cool.
I put a pin in a vise and heat it up, then screw the insert onto it to heat the insert. This keeps your torch (if that's what you're using) away from the shaft.
Easy out or a flat screwdriver will let you unscrew it once the glue dissolves. Heat it up somewhat gradually so you don't over do it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, your right, heating the pin while it's in was heating the shaft pretty good.
 
tg_vegas said:
Are you boring or reaming to .444"
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I drill the hole to depth with a 3/8" drill. Then bore and ream to .390" back the boring bar out to where the shoulder is and bore that to .444" then thread the inner part of the hole 7/16-20.
Cut a few notches inn the threaded part of the insert with a small end mill and glue the insert in using west epoxy and 404 binding agent. Haven't had a insert come loose yet..
 
I was super bored at work today, so I made a mock up.
Hot tip btw; if you are practicing making blind holes, perspex is a great material to use as it allows you to see what you are doing.
InCollage_20230315_180707609~2.jpg
 
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