Replicating production cue ringwork ?

soyale

Active member
Hello all,

I have a “5280 gem03” that’s been modified with a 5/16x14p ss joint. The cue originally had a wood to wood joint, with some of the butts bocote extending passed the curly maple rings to join with the shaft.

Now, the stainless joint is flush with the ring. This got me thinking it would look pretty spiffy to have the same ring on the end of the shaft.

The reason i concocted this scheme is i’ve just purchased an OB1+ shaft with some damage to that area.

F2106713-D36D-4035-9390-E4BBFD33415E.jpeg


The previous owner used a pair of pliers to remove the shaft when it was stuck to his cue. Here is a photo of the rings on my cue.

09ACD5DE-FBE0-405E-A80E-45BBC44C75B8.png


How difficult/expensive would this task be ? lets assume i seek out and provide the tiny gems. Is this even doable?

Thanks ahead of time for any information on the subject one way or another.

- Geoff
 

soyale

Active member
Good luck with that... It's both difficult and expensive. not worth it for an old beat up OB-1 shaft.
this is the kind of feedback i’m here for. Would you recommend finding somebody to make a custom shaft instead? Or you just personally feel that it’s a waste of money? Thanks
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
this is the kind of feedback i’m here for. Would you recommend finding somebody to make a custom shaft instead? Or you just personally feel that it’s a waste of money? Thanks
That's not for me to say, but seeing it's a starter 5280 cue, have someone change the threads on that OB shaft so it fits your 3/8-10 pin and put aside a few bucks here and there and save up to something that's truly yours. In my experience people tend to tire of those production cues pretty quickly and rather move on to something else. My experience with 5280 brand is limited, but many similar brands starts showing some serious signs of wear after a few years and it's usually not wort repairing, unless the cue holds some serious sentimental value for the owner.
 

soyale

Active member
so it fits your 3/8-10 pin
My post is MOSTLY about how the cue has been modified, with details about exactly how.

May i ask, do you play with a custom cue that is worth several thousand dollars?

unless the cue holds some serious sentimental value for the owner.
my late father gave me this cue when i first developed a serious interest in the game.

I’ve had the weight bolt cut down and the stainless joint has transformed it to be forward weighted, which i very much enjoy.

I currently play with an Ozone O3 shaft. Im hoping the softness of the ob1+ will make the cue play a little less stiff, and more similar to when it was a wood-wood joint, while still retaining the LD properties that i have chosen to become accustomed to after my ten year hiatus from the game. Either way that “beat up old OB” is an upgrade for me.

I’m of the opinion that the butt of the cue means very little and that most if not all of the play comes from the shaft and tip. Thusly, it would be worth it to me up to a certain degree to pay to have a shaft match the butt.

I’m not a cue maker so i have no knowledge about whether such an endeavor is even possible, let alone how much it might cost.

Art is worth however much a man is willing to pay for it.
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
May i ask, do you play with a custom cue that is worth several thousand dollars?
Not at all. I play with a simple merry widow, nothing fancy Purpleheart/BEM. 3/8-10 flat bottom brass pin. Which I obviously made myself.
Not really sure I agree with your statement about the cue butt means very little, there's definently differences in feel and feedback depending on materials used and how it's put together, that's why there's so many variants on the basic concept. Might not be huge differences, but enough that you could feel it. A cue is a sum of all it's parts.

Go ahead play with what your comfortable with, nothing wrong with that, but it usually doesn't make sense to do expensive modifications for starter cues. You'll pay quite alot to have someone make matching ringwork and fit it to a shaft that's allready at final diameter.
 

soyale

Active member
Not at all. I play with a simple merry widow, nothing fancy Purpleheart/BEM. 3/8-10 flat bottom brass pin. Which I obviously made myself.
Not really sure I agree with your statement about the cue butt means very little, there's definently differences in feel and feedback depending on materials used and how it's put together, that's why there's so many variants on the basic concept. Might not be huge differences, but enough that you could feel it. A cue is a sum of all it's parts.

Go ahead play with what your comfortable with, nothing wrong with that, but it usually doesn't make sense to do expensive modifications for starter cues. You'll pay quite alot to have someone make matching ringwork and fit it to a shaft that's allready at final diameter.
Thanks, i was curious about how that works. I agree with you about the butt to a degree, i was using hyperbole. I’m also not a cue maker and haven’t handled nearly as many cues as i’m sure you have, so my opinion is certainly of less value, but i still think that outside of weight and joint material the differences in play will be hard pressed to find, especially among the novice level players such as myself.

Give me five different 19oz with my shaft and im sure i could play with each and every one of them. Change the shaft on my own playing cue and im in trouble.

All that aside, as a cue maker, would you be willing say, in pm if you wish, a rough estimate of what you personally would charge for such a pain in the ass project? Your input is greatly appreciated.
 

CocoboloCowboy

Cowboys are my hero's
Silver Member
Maybe some one can give you Eddie Cohen in California, contact info.

He is IMHO a Ringwork Master, might be able to remanufacture ring on new shaft, if he could order (2) while your at it.

Might have to send but section for as close to perfect a match.

Link could be current, good luck.



 
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