What's the best way to remove the round mother-of-pearl sights?
Restoring '46 Brunswick Anniversary (9ft)
- Thread starter goldcrown4
- Start date
Removing Round Sights
When I had to replace a sight on my Anniversary table I was instructed to use a sharp wood punch, center the punch on the sight, hit it slightly with a hammer and it will crack and can be easily removed.
Glue the new sight in the orgional hole, the next day wrap a ertra fine piece of sand paper around a small block of wood and sand it flat with the rail top. I used 2400 to finish the slight to polish it, my rails are finished with Danish Oil and waxed to a high gloss with a woolen pad.
BBC
When I had to replace a sight on my Anniversary table I was instructed to use a sharp wood punch, center the punch on the sight, hit it slightly with a hammer and it will crack and can be easily removed.
Glue the new sight in the orgional hole, the next day wrap a ertra fine piece of sand paper around a small block of wood and sand it flat with the rail top. I used 2400 to finish the slight to polish it, my rails are finished with Danish Oil and waxed to a high gloss with a woolen pad.
BBC
Thanks for the tip! My rails are about to be stripped to the bare wood. Some previous owner (expletive removed) painted the rails, aprons, and legs baby-poop brown, and left the cream color in the grooves. In all my research, I was convinced the rails were actually made of walnut, hoped the aprons were the same, but am probably about to find out otherwise. In fact, I'm reasonably certain the aprons are poplar or similar after stripping one small section. I planned on using Danish Teak Oil too! I didn't know it could be shined up with a wool pad. If you don't mind, I'd really like to see some close up photos of how your rails turned out. I'm mostly curious as to how dark the natural wood is, and if you were able to determine what kind of "cabinet" wood it really is. I guess "Walnut Finish" doesn't mean walnut wood necessarily. My corner castings are being resurfaced as I type this. Had the chance to do type III hardcoat in black but went natural instead.
Here's my email address: goldcrown4@yahoo.com
Here's my email address: goldcrown4@yahoo.com
@BBC,
Here's basically a progress thread of my restoration efforts thus far if you haven't already read thru some of it: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=239452
Yesterday I bought Watco Danish Oil in both Dark Walnut, and Natural. Word has it, my rails should be genuine walnut, so I figure they will get the Natural, but the Poplar skirts will get the Dark Walnut, and hopefully they will match up. I'll know soon enough as I plug away at this project.
You mentioned you polished up the finish sheen with a woolen pad. Was that effort done by hand? or mechanized? And did you use Watco's Finish Wax over the Danish Oil or polish up the Danish Oil with this method? I bought a can of their wax too, but am not sure it's necessary, though it probably can only help deepen the walnut hues and add protective layers.
Here's basically a progress thread of my restoration efforts thus far if you haven't already read thru some of it: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=239452
Yesterday I bought Watco Danish Oil in both Dark Walnut, and Natural. Word has it, my rails should be genuine walnut, so I figure they will get the Natural, but the Poplar skirts will get the Dark Walnut, and hopefully they will match up. I'll know soon enough as I plug away at this project.
You mentioned you polished up the finish sheen with a woolen pad. Was that effort done by hand? or mechanized? And did you use Watco's Finish Wax over the Danish Oil or polish up the Danish Oil with this method? I bought a can of their wax too, but am not sure it's necessary, though it probably can only help deepen the walnut hues and add protective layers.