Hi all, just wondering exactly what I should tell my cue repairer when I need my shaft's taper lengthened. I said lengthen it to xxinch, but keep the same tip diameter and not sand down any unnecessary part. Is that it or he needs more information than that? can you just say "I want the taper this long" kind of stuff? Thanks for help.
Retapering Shaft
- Thread starter gcgaryyoyo
- Start date
You are all over it already.
You can make a closed bridge and feel when the shaft gets prematurely large for your liking, mark it and measure to the tip. Then decide how much farther up the shaft you want that point of increase to be based on your bridge/length of stroke. Then give him those two lengths along with what you already stated.
Kelly
You can make a closed bridge and feel when the shaft gets prematurely large for your liking, mark it and measure to the tip. Then decide how much farther up the shaft you want that point of increase to be based on your bridge/length of stroke. Then give him those two lengths along with what you already stated.
Kelly
The word TAPER is very general. For example a pro taper of a consistant 13mm for 20", would make for a whippy shaft that wouldn't be good for anything more than proping up a window(IMO). On the other hand if the taper is very gradual for the 1st 11-12" & then begins to grow more rapidly can be extended & still maintain a solid hit...JER
nah, I wouldn't go so far as to lengthen it to 20" or so. 12 is adequate for a 13.00mm and some dense wood shaft isn't it? Thanks guys for the above response.
dave sutton
Banned
the middle is what matters. it can be 13mm and longer taper and be very playable
If you know someone with a shaft you like you could bring that shaft and your shaft to a cuemaker and ask him to try to match it as closely as possible. That give both of you a good place to start. Just remember that the two shafts might not play the same as they are diffrent pieces of wood and the denisity or weight and stiffness of the shaft will most likely be different.
I prefer to have some climb in the taper also, and keep checking with My calipers to make sure I'm keeping with that gradual climb. Basically what I would do is pull that taper back to make the transition as smooth as possible. after I'm done It may look like a straight taper to some with the naked eye, but put the calipers to It and It reflects the climb I try to leave in the shaft. I want to make the shaft more comfortable, but as someone already mentioned I try not to beat too much of the taper down, creating a whippy shaft in the process.
If They had something different in mind, A person could be more specific in explaining what they want I guess, but Your description would probably be enough to go on for most people. I agree though, each shaft has a life of their own, so even 2 identical taper shafts could produce different feels. that's just the nature of maple or alot of wood types in general.
Greg
If They had something different in mind, A person could be more specific in explaining what they want I guess, but Your description would probably be enough to go on for most people. I agree though, each shaft has a life of their own, so even 2 identical taper shafts could produce different feels. that's just the nature of maple or alot of wood types in general.
Greg