Has anyone determined the pivot points for the various Revo shafts?
REVO Shaft Pivot Point
- Thread starter Tennesseejoe
- Start date
Why do you need to pivot? Why not just use a straight stroke?
Both are just very different methods...use the one you like or both for different situations.
Are you specifically referring to bridge length for using Back Hand English with the Revo?
Respectfully, Matt
(I don’t take myself too seriously. I hope you can return the favor.)
Respectfully, Matt
(I don’t take myself too seriously. I hope you can return the favor.)
I've not tested it the way I have with most others but I would expect both revo pivot point to be closer to joint than not.
I will check it later but if I had to guess, i would say the 12.4 is ballpark of 17" to 18". Just a guess, I've been wrong before.
Rake
I’m not big on BHE because I’m more in the school of dropping my stick into the line of aim with spin considered.
In theory a LD shaft should have a longer bridge for a natural pivot point. Longer bridges compensate less for squirt and LD shafts have less squirt needing to be compensated. In Dr Dave’s latest video he talks about BHE and pivot points. He’s using a Revo in the video.
https://youtu.be/EG29YjLC7aM
Interesting enough, he doesn’t have an exceptionally long bridge. It looks 8-9” to me.
Respectfully, Matt
(I don’t take myself too seriously. I hope you can return the favor.)
In theory a LD shaft should have a longer bridge for a natural pivot point. Longer bridges compensate less for squirt and LD shafts have less squirt needing to be compensated. In Dr Dave’s latest video he talks about BHE and pivot points. He’s using a Revo in the video.
https://youtu.be/EG29YjLC7aM
Interesting enough, he doesn’t have an exceptionally long bridge. It looks 8-9” to me.
Respectfully, Matt
(I don’t take myself too seriously. I hope you can return the favor.)
Using the techniques in the "Got English?" video with the BHE/FHE Calibration Drill, you can use any bridge length you want with any cue.
Regards,
Dave
PS: I usually bridge 11-12" with my Revo (although, my bridge does look a little shorter with the shot in the image you posted), but I don't use pure BHE. I use a combination of BHE and FHE.
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I set an object ball 12" from corner, cue ball 48" from object ball using laser level and white donuts.
I started out at 15" and shot 6 shot for every inch I moved back until the cue ball spun in place. The cue started getting close around 19" and started moving away at 22".
My best results was 20" to 21".
I have the 12.4 revo.
Rake
Knowing the pivot point doesn’t mean one has to be using backhand English. The pivot point number can be used as just the metric to compare one shaft to another in terms of squirt.
Freddie <~~~ in praise of short pivot points
Thanks all for your info...
Old thread, but nevertheless . . .
When the pivot point gets to be something like 20", unless you generally play with a very long bridge, doesn't BHE become essentially unusable? The bad things that can happen as a result of playing with a bridge length that isn't familiar or comfortable - particularly if the taper of the shaft starts coming into play - just seems like too high a price to pay for the predictability.
Pure BHE with the bridge at the natural pivot point of the shaft works only for extremely fast and short shots. To use pure BHE effectively, you would need to use a different bridge length for every combination of shot speed and distance. With my System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS), which uses combinations of BHE and FHE, you can use any cue with any fixed bridge length, and it works over a wide range of shot speeds and distances.
For more info, click on the links above or see:
aim compensation when using sidespin
Enjoy,
Dave
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Would that be "Both Hand English" then?
Sounds good to me, but I think I still like "SAWS" better (especially with my cool circular saw blade 8-ball logo). SAWS works on all shots, even "cut" shots while the CB "spins." :grin-square:
Regards,
Dave
My sentiments exactly. When buying a new shaft one might want to buy a shaft with a similar pivot number so they don't have to make a big adjustment.
Agreed. I wish all cue makes and sellers would report natural pivot lengths so people could make informed purchasing decisions. To me, this is the most important attribute of a cue/shaft, even more important than the weight. I wouldn’t want to buy a cue/shaft that has a natural pivot length different from what I have spent countless years adjusting to. Ain’t nobody got time for that.
Regards,
Dave
Pivot points are tricky. They compensate deflection but they don’t compensate spin-induced throw on the object ball. Pivot points can make a thin cut with spin easier to execute but it’ll respond differently on a full hit, especially slower hits.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
In the System for Aiming With Sidespin (SAWS), I recommend adjusting for throw (CIT or SIT) separately and use the BHE/FHE pivots only to compensate for CB deflection (the combined effects of squirt and swerve).
For those interested, a useful summary of the important things to know for how, when, and how much to adjust for throw can be found at the bottom of the page here:
throw tutorial
and the following page also provides useful relevant resources:
aim compensation when using sidespin
Enjoy,
Dave
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Or collision-induced throw.
Not to mention swerve, which depends on even more variables (distance, speed, ball/cloth condition, butt elevation) - and is a bigger influence.
Even if you adjust for squirt "mechanically" by using your shaft's pivot point, "adjusting the adjustment" for these other variables makes it a mostly-feel thing overall - so I just do it all by feel to keep it "simple".
Not to discount Dave's techniques, which I'm sure make things easier for people who aren't as far down their own rabbit hole as I am.
pj
chgo