Ring on shaft got stuck while repairing

[JSCBP]

Ok, rookie mistake. I am new to cue repair, and I was helping a buddy out by putting a tip on his cue. That went real well. He also had this ring that kept falling off at the end of the shaft. I thought it would be a great idea to just put a couple drops of super glue on it and slide it on. Well, I guess the superglue reacted with the material real fast and it siezed up faster than I could put it on. (Hindsight I should have used wood glue I suppose). All that aside, is there anything I can do to help release it and get a mulligan? I've tried putting a few drops of acetone at the end near the joint with a q-tip... but that doesn't seem to be helping much at all.

What would you guys do? I already feel horrible, it's 2am and I gotta get ahold of him tomorrow to break the news. Before I do anything I'm going to let me decide what he wants to do.

Unless there's a way to break it loose, the only thing I can think of doing (short of completely cutting it off) would be to trim off the portion that's till sticking out kind of like facing off a ferrule and then filling the gap with epoxy or something. And even then I don't know how well that will work since the ring has about .010" taper, so that would mean it wouldn't be flush at the joint.

I've got a home made que lathe, but it's limited in what it can do.

 

[aphelps1]

You could try heating the ring with a heat gun to soften the super glue bond enough to remove and re-seat the ring. But be careful and do it in a very well ventilated space as this can gas out cyanide gas from the glue. If that doesn't work the ring needs to be cut off and replaced. Simple task, but you'll need the correct material and a good repair lathe. A slow set epoxy would be the glue of choice on this.

We learn by our mistakes,
Alan

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Unless there's a way to break it loose, the only thing I can think of doing (short of completely cutting it off) would be to trim off the portion that's till sticking out kind of like facing off a ferrule and then filling the gap with epoxy or something. And even then I don't know how well that will work since the ring has about .010" taper, so that would mean it wouldn't be flush at the joint.

I've got a home made que lathe, but it's limited in what it can do.


View attachment 831530

Leaving that and filling it with epoxy shouldn't even be a consideration. I expect that as @aphelps1 said, you are at the point where you are removing the collar by turning it off to the tenon below. The lucky thing is that you don't have fancy rings to replicate.

 

[JSCBP]

Yea I figured that's what you guys were gonna say. I think I got what it takes to see this one through. That's the route I'm going to suggest. Like I said though, I'm a greenhorn at cue repairs, but plan to shine eventually.

The next thing is terminology sourcing the materials. This joint ring (I guess that's what it's called) seems to be some sort of plastic, but I'm not sure what kind. I'm seeing some phenolic rods that are one inch in diameter over at cue components website that are large enough in diameter to be turned down to fit. Would the idea be to get that and go from there, or are there better options for replacement materials?

I really appreciate the input guys.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

Yea I figured that's what you guys were gonna say. I think I got what it takes to see this one through. That's the route I'm going to suggest. Like I said though, I'm a greenhorn at cue repairs, but plan to shine eventually.

The next thing is terminology sourcing the materials. This joint ring (I guess that's what it's called) seems to be some sort of plastic, but I'm not sure what kind. I'm seeing some phenolic rods that are one inch in diameter over at cue components website that are large enough in diameter to be turned down to fit. Would the idea be to get that and go from there, or are there better options for replacement materials?

I really appreciate the input guys.

What you are working on is a collar more than a ring. A ring would be additional to the collar. Effectively the same thing in this case, but rings can be many places on a cue and tend to be used as a decoration between two segments.

The first thing I would do is to take use a file or coarse sandpaper to remove the finish from part of the collar. Doing this will let you see the base material. If you can see a weave pattern in the base material, you likely have linen based phenolic. If you can't see a weave, you likely have a random thermoset plastic. It's black, so there are likely many materials that will suffice. Juma or Tomahawk are good candidates, stay away from acetals like Delrin. Tomahawk is available from our own @MVPCues in short lengths.

After all is done, you will need to finish the shaft.

As an aside, I applaud your willingness to jump in to this endeavor, but I would strongly suggest spending hours and hours (and hours) reading through the backlog of information in this forum if you wish to continue repairing cues. Everything required for this repair has been posted here ad nauseam for over twenty years, including why we don't use superglue for a repair like this (your results are the same as everyone else's, superglue sets extremely quickly under pressure).

 

[JSCBP]

Absolutely appreciate the advice, I do know a long journey is ahead of me. I've been lurking on here for a while, and the more I have read, the more I realize I need to learn... I feel like this is a right of passage, or at least I'm telling myself that.

I talked to my buddy, and he said he's got trust in my decision and abilities. So I guess that's a blessing if I can pull it off. I even offered to let him have one of my cues in the meantime. With that said, here's my plan. A proper replacement will happen, and here's how (mile high view).

Step 1. Cut off collar with the lathe, leaving the tenon behind just like it was before all this started. (Just minus the collar piece.)
Step 2. Do a quick CAD design in Fusion360 for a replacement collar and 3D print it, slip fit, no glue (This will get him by while I learn).
Step 3. Order the correct material based off of the recommendations above, then practice, practice, practice on one of my personal cues until I am confident.
Step 4. Get my buddy's shaft back, and finish the job right!

 

[Canadian cue]

For future consideration, one of the reasons I avoid CA glue for repair is not just the set time but the squeeze out. It will make a mess of a finished collar in a hurry. Epoxy is much better solution. You have lots of time to work and the squeeze out cleans off with some alcohol. The only disadvantage is you have to wait for it to set before returning it to the customer. I have seen guys use CA to glue slip on ferrules, CA tends to cure really hard making it not as strong in shear. So, ferrules will often loosen up with time. Learning your adhesives and knowing when and where to use them is worth taking the time to study and do your homework on.

 

[Kim Bye]

Super glue is only used to glue on tips. Use epoxy for anything else.

 

[JSCBP]

You all are absolutely right about the correct adhesive, and I should have known better. I've got quite a bit of woodworking experience and deal with PVA (mostly), hide glue, and epoxy some. However superglue is something I just haven't used a lot, other than putting trinkets back together, or using on masking tape to glue templates to things I'm going to route out. Oh well, live and learn...

Anyways, steps 1 and 2 are done in my plan, it actually turned out better than I had planned. I still need to order some material and learn how to do this the correct way.

Here's the results of the removal and 3D printed replacement. I guess we can call it a roadside repair