Room Size

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jpd

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Hi Folks... hope the experts here can help me out. :smile:

I have a 12 X 20 room. One of the 12ft sides has a 5' opening.

I just bought a used 8' Connelly.

I know I am pushing it for spaces needed for this table.

This is a family table and we are amateurs who don't mind using a 52" cue and maybe a shorty one in awhile.

Do you think this this is doable... or will this be a Seinfeld Kramer situation :grin:

Thanks!!
 
easy-e said:
This dimensions leave you just about zero room for a backswing. It’ll only bother you when the cue ball ends up in those tight spots.
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Yes... only when ball is slammed up against rail and shooting perpendicular to table.

Using the actual playing area dimensions and 52 in cue size... I calculate a deficit of 2 inches on either side where wall present (not taking in to consideration of backswing)...

I think having a ball right up against the rail and needing to shoot perpendicularly will not happen too often...
 
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jpd said:
Yes... only when ball is slammed up against rail and shooting perpendicular to table.

Using the actual playing area dimensions and 52 in cue size... I calculate a deficit of 2 inches on either side where wall present (not taking in to consideration of backswing)...

I think having a ball right up against the rail and needing to shoot perpendicularly will not happen too often...
Click to expand...
I go to a neighborhood tavern that has a tight-space table. We all call it "yoga pool" and just laugh about the contortions needed for some shots.
 
garczar said:
I go to a neighborhood tavern that has a tight-space table. We all call it "yoga pool" and just laugh about the contortions needed for some shots.
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lol funny... yes we don't want to do yoga pool too much..

There is an option of widening up that opening at a later date... but then of course the table would have to be moved over a foot... and having someone come out and do that correctly...
 
jpd said:
Yes... only when ball is slammed up against rail and shooting perpendicular to table.

Using the actual playing area dimensions and 52 in cue size... I calculate a deficit of 2 inches on either side where wall present (not taking in to consideration of backswing)...

I think having a ball right up against the rail and needing to shoot perpendicularly will not happen too often...
Click to expand...

I’m not saying it’ll happen often, but if you’re in some competitive practice session, it’ll drive you crazy! I’d still get the table though. :D
 
jpd said:
Hi Folks... hope the experts here can help me out. :smile:

I have a 12 X 20 room. One of the 12ft sides has a 5' opening.

I just bought a used 8' Connelly.

I know I am pushing it for spaces needed for this table.

This is a family table and we are amateurs who don't mind using a 52" cue and maybe a shorty one in awhile.

Do you think this this is doable... or will this be a Seinfeld Kramer situation :grin:

Thanks!!
Click to expand...
The 20' length is plenty - you only need 18'. If the 5' opening is in/near the middle of one of the side walls and adjacent to where one side of the table will be, that will certainly help out quite a bit, but if the 5' opening is closer to either end of the room, it's not much help. You really need 14' width for an 8-foot table, so 12' width means using a 48" cue for many shots when the cue ball is near the side rail and you're shooting perpendicular to the length of the table.
 
I have a 7' table in a 12'x17' room. I have no problems at all with the length. I knew I would have trouble with the width. What I did was set it up so the far side long rail is unobstructed. On the near side long rail I need a short stick for any straight across (side pocket to side pocket type) shots. So 3 sides are fine. It's definitely worth it to practice drills and what have you. And I've gotten used to a short stick (42" Trouble Shooter) rather well.

Good luck and enjoy it no matter what!
 
ChrisinNC said:
The 20' length is plenty - you only need 18'. If the 5' opening is in/near the middle of one of the side walls and adjacent to where one side of the table will be, that will certainly help out quite a bit, but if the 5' opening is closer to either end of the room, it's not much help. You really need 14' width for an 8-foot table, so 12' width means using a 48" cue for many shots when the cue ball is near the side rail and you're shooting perpendicular to the length of the table.
Click to expand...

Yes, the 5' opening is not centered to the room... just off center. So I can move this table so that this opening covers 2/3 length of the table.

I think it's best I mock up a table and move it around to see how to place this table to limit obstruction as much as possible.
 
easy-e said:
I’m not saying it’ll happen often, but if you’re in some competitive practice session, it’ll drive you crazy! I’d still get the table though. :D
Click to expand...

I know... that is what I'm worried about lol. I should just widen up the opening. I can do this myself. Just a pain... and have to get a dry wall guy (cause I suck at that, and carpet guy). Rest I can do myself. But this is a brand new house... not too excited about doing this at this point.
 
chitownnorth said:
I have a 7' table in a 12'x17' room. I have no problems at all with the length. I knew I would have trouble with the width. What I did was set it up so the far side long rail is unobstructed. On the near side long rail I need a short stick for any straight across (side pocket to side pocket type) shots. So 3 sides are fine. It's definitely worth it to practice drills and what have you. And I've gotten used to a short stick (42" Trouble Shooter) rather well.

Good luck and enjoy it no matter what!
Click to expand...

Yes.. what I have been thinking as well... try to have one long rail unobstructed. But with an 8 footer... this may impact the other side too much.

I have a feeling I will be ripping some of this wall out this weekend :(
 
You will have fun regardless. The game can be changed/modified to where the cue ball can be moved or whatever. My buddy had a table his dinning room. Both long rails were close to the wall. We used a jump stick or shorty(real shorty) for the confined shots.
 
GoldCrown said:
You will have fun regardless. The game can be changed/modified to where the cue ball can be moved or whatever. My buddy had a table his dinning room. Both long rails were close to the wall. We used a jump stick or shorty(real shorty) for the confined shots.
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We have plenty of room in our dining/living room (open concept)... but we really don't want to impact our living space too much and be staring at a pool table at focal point of house.
 
jpd said:
Yes.. what I have been thinking as well... try to have one long rail unobstructed. But with an 8 footer... this may impact the other side too much.

I have a feeling I will be ripping some of this wall out this weekend :(
Click to expand...

That's the reason I chose a seven footer. My corner pockets are 4.5 inches plus I made external shims and covered them to bring my pockets around 3.75 inches. It's a nice table to play on.
 
Cant make up my mind... try table with current room. Or bite the bullet and take part of the wall out now. Maybe I should take a poll?
 
chitownnorth said:
That's the reason I chose a seven footer. My corner pockets are 4.5 inches plus I made external shims and covered them to bring my pockets around 3.75 inches. It's a nice table to play on.
Click to expand...

Yes, my budget was for a used table. And not many 7 footers are listed in our area (like almost none). And I also was limiting myself to only certain brands. This Connelly is one of their upper models and the price was very good. So, I knew what I was getting myself into ... lol.

But if the space is too tight it wont be fun to play on... but I can make that space right tho...
 
jpd said:
Yes, my budget was for a used table. And not many 7 footers are listed in our area (like almost none). And I also was limiting myself to only certain brands. This Connelly is one of their upper models and the price was very good. So, I knew what I was getting myself into ... lol.

But if the space is too tight it wont be fun to play on... but I can make that space right tho...
Click to expand...

I ran into the same issue as well. I bought a used Table and there were hardly any 7-footers. I did not have the luxury of getting a bar table either as you would not make the turn to get into the room. So I made sure that I got a Brunswick with super speed cushions. All in all I am very pleased.

You made a good choice with Connolly.
 
If feasible, and if it won't bother you to look at, consider placing it slightly cockeyed in the space. Doing this I was able to prevent a short-cue situation all the way down one wall, but rather just very small spaces in two corners (3 foot cue), and a third corner (4 foot cue). A little strange to look at, but it did make for more normally-playable table area. In my case, I did have a fairly wide opening on one wall.
 
Cant make up my mind... try table with current room. Or bite the bullet and take part of the wall out now. Maybe I should take a poll?
Click to expand...

Facing same situation with 9' BBC table wife bought in the spring.
Finally finished concrete piers and steel in the cellar to hold the floor up this week.

Now need to decide whether to remove hall wall upstairs adjacent front room where it goes. Same as you - 5' opening, except at the end. Order more steel and some more framing material to take most of the wall out? or live with room 6" too short?

Luckily i can live with it a little longer - room would be big enough if we removed 3' of furniture at the other end. But then again, the hall is kind of "useless" so why not open it have have both options? Except of course for the extra time :( There's always one (or 2 or 3....) more steps in a project than a person really wants to plan for on the direct route.

smt
 
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