Router Mount Mod for Headstock Alignment

Dacuban1972

New member
Router Mount Modification to Align with Headstock

Here is how I Modified My Router Bracket to align it with the Headstock chuck on my Lathe for Live tooling. Alignment is Key here and MUST be Tweaked to ensure machining numbers are accurate.

If anyone would like to Order a Router Mount already modified.
Please let me know.
I include the a 2" X 2" piece of Aluminum, The Modded Router Mount and Router Bolt. They Cost $65.00 Shipped to your door.
PM me for PayPal Info.


1.)-Bolt the mount into the carriage with the T-Slot facing the Headstock and center it to the chuck exactly.
.
2.)-Put a 1/2 Mill in the Chuck, center the router mount to the chuck then walk the carriage into the bit slowly until you reach the same depth as the t-slot key way.

3.)-Switch bits to a smaller centering bit in the chuck and make a starter hole in the router mount.

4.)-Switch bits in chuck again.....use a bit that's the same size as the bolt that screws into the router to hold it to the Mount.

5.) Turn the bracket to Normal position and Mount the router to the bracket.

6.)Get a piece of 2" x 2 " 1/8 or 1/4 thick aluminum or steel. Drill a 5/16 hole in center and place it between the mount and the router with the mounting screw through it to make the mount more rigid and help with alignment.

7.)IMPORTANT!!!!!
With a bit in the router. Center the bit inside the Jaws of the headstock. A couple of shims between the rear of the router will help to achieve perfect alignment to the Jaws of your headstock..both horizontally and vertically.

I will post more pictures asap to help.


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Nice idea thanks for sharing. This would also be good for cutting rings and for people who want to use a 4inch straight router bit to bore out our butt sleeves.

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As many times as it's been mentioned and asked about, I can't believe Todd hasn't incorporated this into his already existing mount.
 
As many times as it's been mentioned and asked about, I can't believe Todd hasn't incorporated this into his already existing mount.

I can't speak for Todd, but I am pretty sure this only works on machines that are set up on riser blocks. It will not work on a regular height machines.
 
I can't speak for Todd, but I am pretty sure this only works on machines that are set up on riser blocks. It will not work on a regular height machines.

Chris,

Can you elaborate or explain what you're saying a little better, not quite sure I understand. :confused:

According to Dacuban he is using one of Todd's lathes and also one of Todd's router mounts. I own a lathe from Todd and the only thing on a riser block is the tailstock. I guess the headstock has a riser built into the mount, I dunno, I haven't seen enough variety of these machines to know, but I do know my headstock has no removable riser like my tailstock does.
 
First, I believe that Ed does have his headstock and tailstock on risers. Please see attached photo... Dirtbmw20, what you are calling a riser under the tailstock I believe is just the base of the tailstock. If you are not using a riser under the headstock and the tailstock then you cannot mount a PC or Dewalt trim router parallel to the bedway because the radius of the router is greater than the height of center of the spindle. But there is a way to use the eloh threading tool. If you are interested send me an PM or email at midamericapool@yahoo.com

user61874_pic11811_1383536660.jpg
 
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First, I believe that Ed does have his headstock and tailstock on risers. Please see attached photo... Dirtbmw20, what you are calling a riser under the tailstock I believe is just the base of the tailstock. If you are not using a riser under the headstock and the tailstock then you cannot mount a PC or Dewalt trim router parallel to the bedway because the radius of the router is greater than the height of center of the spindle. But there is a way to use the eloh threading tool. If you are interested send me an PM or email at midamericapool@yahoo.com

View attachment 301720

Todd, I see what you're saying and I understand. You are correct. That is not a riser my tailstock is on, it's just the mount itself.

So I need to put my headstock and tailstock on risers before I can use a router ??

Lee Casto
 
It depends on what you want to do with the router. Send me an email or give me a call and I'll try to answer your questions.

Thanks,
Todd
 
Todd, I see what you're saying and I understand. You are correct. That is not a riser my tailstock is on, it's just the mount itself.

So I need to put my headstock and tailstock on risers before I can use a router ??

Lee Casto



He can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe what he is saying is that the body of the router will hit on the crosslide, before the center of the endmill/router bit, what have ya will center out with the center of the headstock. When Your cutting off the side of the bit, You may get away without them, but if doing a plunge cut such as point grooves, ring billet or thread milling You can't get the center of the router down with the center line of the work piece or headstock & tail stock without raising them up with the risers..
 
He can correct me if I'm wrong but I believe what he is saying is that the body of the router will hit on the crosslide, before the center of the endmill/router bit, what have ya will center out with the center of the headstock. When Your cutting off the side of the bit, You may get away without them, but if doing a plunge cut such as point grooves, ring billet or thread milling You can't get the center of the router down with the center line of the work piece or headstock & tail stock without raising them up with the risers..

Thanks Cue Crazy. I completely understand.

Lee Casto
 
I should add that some of what I mentioned could be done with a side cutting bit, but I believe where You would run into problems is when you have to a plunge cut or mount the router sideways.
 
Here are photos which show how the router mount was originally designed to be used and yes it will cut ring billets, "V" grooves etc. in a horizontal position as shown in photo one and three. Photo 2 show the router mounted vertically for turning. There are other ways to use the router mount including the way eloh has shown.

Router Mount 4.jpg

Router mount 1 a.jpg

Photo 4.jpg

Thanks!!
Todd
 
Chris,

Can you elaborate or explain what you're saying a little better, not quite sure I understand. :confused:

According to Dacuban he is using one of Todd's lathes and also one of Todd's router mounts. I own a lathe from Todd and the only thing on a riser block is the tailstock. I guess the headstock has a riser built into the mount, I dunno, I haven't seen enough variety of these machines to know, but I do know my headstock has no removable riser like my tailstock does.

The body of the PC router is too fat to sit on center when turned across a normal height cross-slide. It has to be put up a little above center. Which will still work for external threading. It appears Todd already has a hole for putting it on center on a regular height lathe. But it will not turn for the router to go across the cross-slide. I wish PC had made their routers just a little thinner.
 
Thanks for all the explanations from everyone. It was explained great and I completely understand.

Here's my other question. .........

If I add a riser block to my headstock and one to my tailstock..... then how do I get my tool/cutter raised to the center of the work piece ??

Lee Casto
 
The body of the PC router is too fat to sit on center when turned across a normal height cross-slide. It has to be put up a little above center. Which will still work for external threading. It appears Todd already has a hole for putting it on center on a regular height lathe. But it will not turn for the router to go across the cross-slide. I wish PC had made their routers just a little thinner.

Hey Chris...I have your deluxe with the spring for tapering. Would a non-spring cross slide like on your midsize sit lower to get the router on center. Does midsize carage work on the deluxe

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Riser Blocks

Yes my lathe has riser blocks on it except when I use live tooling cause the compound on carriage is not secure enough to support the vibration and stress of the router and it is more accurate on just the lower carriage. I do splice work, tapers, turn squares and thread with this setup and found it to be the best setup from my experience.
Hope this cleared up confusion.
 
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