Run this rack, how?

[renard]

Just curious on how others would attempt to run this rack out.

This is from a league match in which I decided stipes looked like the best bet. After the game concluded I sketched the layout while it was fresh in my mind.

In many eightball games the racks are not spread out for easy run outs. Clusters, interfering balls, and congested areas are usually the norm. Such was this case in that only two balls made it past the midpoint of the table.

I would like to see the ideas from this forum.

Optional:
A lot of times someone suggests to shoot this shot and get position here (indicating perfect position for each and every shot.) We all know in the game of pool sometimes we come up short or too long of that perfect position. Some target zones are large, some are small so keep these thoughts in mind as you suggest your shot selection. Mention what the pitfalls of each shot could be in your explanation and why it’s a better percentage shot for you to choose.

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)END

P.S. I'll break it down in parts of what I did and why.

 

[Solartje]

ill give it a go. (im new so dont expect much)

pot the 12 into the center down pocket, natural angle to place for the 15 (EASY SHOT, BIG TARGET to get position)
pot the 15 into the left upside pocket,with a bit of outside englisch to place for the 13 (straight on it) (EASY SHOT, BIG TARGET to get position)
pot the 13, in the center down pocket, use folow true to get position for the 14, cb close to cusion (EASY SHOT, BIG TARGET to get position,)
pot the 14 in the right down pocket (cut maybe a bit backwards, probably hardest shot), natural position for the 11 (MEDIUM SHOT, BIG TARGET to get position, just DONT overrun the position, beter to stay high on the 11, and use the right cusion for the next position or the 3 ball to stop your shot, or straight draw, many options)
pot the 11 in the right down pocket, draw back for the 9 to get an angle to pot the 10 after.(easy shot, medium position)
pot the 10 in the left upside pocket, draw back for the 8 (medium shot, medium target but not much work to do with the cb so should still be ok)
pot the 8 in the left upper corner, and spam AZB a newcomer C player has just beaten bustamente

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)END

 

[bruin70]

just way too much "stuff" to tell. but i'd start with the 12 first only because i can get a sense of where the cb will go. i can't with the 10.

i like the stripes because of their spread. i suggest getting to the 9 early, so that you have a few options after that. in fact, if i could get to the 10-9 early, that's better still.

there's lots of way to get to the 8 with the remaining balls. if everything goes according to plan,,,,10 first, 11 draw to an angle on the 9, two rails to the 14, roll the cb to the 13, roll the cb to the 15, come off the rail for the 8.

 

[Solartje]

just way too much "stuff" to tell. but i'd start with the 12 first only because i can get a sense of where the cb will go. i can't with the 10.

i like the stripes because of their spread. i suggest getting to the 9 early, so that you have a few options after that. in fact, if i could get to the 10-9 early, that's better still.

there's lots of way to get to the 8 with the remaining balls. if everything goes according to plan,,,,10 first, 11 draw to an angle on the 9, two rails to the 14, roll the cb to the 13, roll the cb to the 15, come off the rail for the 8.

bruin , where do u pot the 10 and how u go to straight on the 11? dont think 10 goes in the lower left pocket, and the upper right is a very hard shot, not sure the 15 is in its way...

 

[bruin70]

bruin , where do u pot the 10 and how u go to straight on the 11? dont think 10 goes in the lower left pocket, and the upper right is a very hard shot, not sure the 15 is in its way...

it is a big assumption, i know, but it looks like the 10 slips by the 8(poster DID NOT say it couldn't) in the upper right. so i stop there for the 11 in the bottom right and draw a little to the 9. so in this perfect world, it would be 12 in the side, down and back for the 10, 11, 9, 14, 13, 15,,,,,8.

after the 12, i could also try for the 15 next, then 10. the 12-15 and the 12-10 are my only options. i need to leave the 13 alone for last(to the 8), or next to last(for the 15) because i don't think i can get to the 8 from the 14. and if i get funny on the 14, the 13 also serves as my insurance shot. once again, imo, i have to get to the 10 and 9 early....at least the 9

i am assuming i'm efren???

 

[bruin70]

solartje..... with the 4 in the way, i can't see that there's enough angle on the 14 to go off the rail to where you want the 11,,,and you have to get exact on the 11 to draw in between the 8 and 9

 

[renard]

The ten wouldnt go by the eight. Myself I started with the 12 (stop shot)then 15 (with left english only). Sort of going with a 14:1 rationale of picking off the outer most balls of the rack.

The stop shot for me was easier than jacking up over the pocket to draw back and possibly missing the opening shot. Left with such an angle holding up for the 13 would have required a very soft shot. So I chose to get to my trouble ball (14) early with a soft shot on the 15. It ended up not quite on the rail but enough angle to stun over in a target area between the 9, 10, and 11.

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)END

 

[bruin70]

The ten wouldnt go by the eight. Myself I started with the 12 (stop shot)then 15 (with left english only). Sort of going with a 14:1 rationale of picking off the outer most balls of the rack.

)END

does the 10 get by the 15? and you're saying the 12 is straight in?

if the above are true, i'd draw off the 12 to an angle to the 11, drop the 11 and come off the rail to the 10 in the upper left pocket. stop thye cb to the 9-14-13-15

 

[renard]

solartje..... with the 4 in the way, i can't see that there's enough angle on the 14 to go off the rail to where you want the 11,,,and you have to get exact on the 11 to draw in between the 8 and 9

You could if you put yourself on the rail. If not, you had to hit it hard to stun it to a target area between the three stripes.

By the way the 10 was very tight trying to pass by the 15 in the beginning. The wei table doesnt really show you how close all these balls were to respective pockets. I sould have laid that ground work in the original post. Sorry.

 

[bruin70]

then howz about this,,,maybe ,,,,12, roll the cb to the 14,,,draw to the 13, roll to the 15,,,,draw to the 11, comeoff the rail to the 9,,,then 10, then 8

 

[renard]

then howz about this,,,maybe ,,,,12, roll the cb to the 14,,,draw to the 13, roll to the 15,,,,draw to the 11, comeoff the rail to the 9,,,then 10, then 8

That would work. The problem I had with rolling up to 14 with the opening shot was that it was dead straight in. With the target zone so small I was afaid I would follow the 12 with the cueball!

Again thats just my game. After the 12, 15, and 14 my resulting position was here:

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[bruin70]

That would work. The problem I had with rolling up to 14 with the opening shot was that it was dead straight in. With the target zone so small I was afaid I would follow the 12 with the cueball!

Again thats just my game. After the 12, 15, and 14 my resulting position was here:

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i like that. i like the 13 as an insurance ball. i don't like leaving the 10-9 till last,,,but 11-9-10-13 is a plan. or 9-10-11-13. but for me,,,if i jacked up on the 12, i would probably miss by 3 diamonds. i'd rather roll to the 13 if not the 14

 

[renard]

i like that. i like the 13 as an insurance ball. i don't like leaving the 10-9 till last,,,but 11-9-10-13 is a plan. or 9-10-11-13

Well I was thinking the same thing about insurance but I relly wanted to get to the 10 ball next but the position seemed short. Until I really looked at it I realized I could bump the eight clear without even hitting it hard:

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[sjm]

The ten wouldnt go by the eight. Myself I started with the 12 (stop shot)then 15 (with left english only). Sort of going with a 14:1 rationale of picking off the outer most balls of the rack.

The stop shot for me was easier than jacking up over the pocket to draw back and possibly missing the opening shot. Left with such an angle holding up for the 13 would have required a very soft shot. So I chose to get to my trouble ball (14) early with a soft shot on the 15. It ended up not quite on the rail but enough angle to stun over in a target area between the 9, 10, and 11.

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I'd call your approach as good as any available. Nice shooting!

 

[renard]

I'd call your approach as good as any available. Nice shooting!

Thank you!
Even though I ran out afterwards everyone was saying, "I though you would do this and then this instead; but nice out!"

So I thought I would seek another opinion on other ways of tackling the problem. Bruin and Solartje have given me food for thought though

 

[sjm]

Thank you!
Even though I ran out afterwards everyone was saying, "I though you would do this and then this instead; but nice out!"

So I thought I would seek another opinion on other ways of tackling the problem. Bruin and Solartje have given me food for thought though

Bruin and Solartje diefintiely gave some good analysis here. I just happen to approve of prioritizing clearing your rails here. Your straight-pool-esque solution just happened to rub me the right way.

 

[walt]

Jacking up for a light draw stroke on the 12-ball in the side has some big advantages for the added risk on the first shot. It gives you shape to cut the 11 softly between the 7 and 5 and roll the cue ball between the 1 and 3 off the bottom rail for short side shape on the 10, with a slight angle into the long rail. Shoot the 10 up-table and go into the 8 with the cue ball, hard enough to knock it off the side rail and back out of the way, but not beyond the 3 so it still goes in pocket A. This leaves you in good shape for the trouble 9, making the rest of the rack easy-- 9-15-13-14-8.

12)
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11)
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10)
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9)
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15)
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13)
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14)
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[renard]

Jacking up for a light draw stroke on the 12-ball in the side has some big advantages for the added risk on the first shot. It gives you shape to cut the 11 softly between the 7 and 5 and roll the cue ball between the 1 and 3 off the bottom rail for short side shape on the 10, with a slight angle into the long rail. Shoot the 10 up-table and go into the 8 with the cue ball, hard enough to knock it off the side rail and back out of the way, but not beyond the 3 so it still goes in pocket A. This leaves you in good shape for the trouble 9, making the rest of the rack easy-- 9-15-13-14-8.

12)
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11)
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10)
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9)
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15)
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13)
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14)
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The ten was tight passing the 15 ball though the wei table doesnt show that. I would have shot the 10 past the 15 only if I could guarantee very close to straight in position on the 10.

This is a good pattern though. Tuff early shots, easy shots thru to the end. I really debated early on drawing back with that opening shot but just didnt trust being jacked up over the pocket. That and I wanted to make sure I made the first shot to claim the stripes. I'm sure others like yourself would have no qualms with it, I guess that's a shot to practice!

 

[renard]

Bruin and Solartje diefintiely gave some good analysis here. I just happen to approve of prioritizing clearing your rails here. Your straight-pool-esque solution just happened to rub me the right way.

Thanks again. I love to play straight pool but really haven't had much opportunity to play it for a while. One hole and nine ball are king here.

Any way, I too like to clear the rails and trust my short position pretty much. This was one rack that I really had to think out. I was so engrossed with it I didnt really recall anything happening around me. I was told my opponent was talking to me the whole time on and off.

Any way this was my next shot:

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[Solartje]

Renard: i woudnt feel confident drawing on the first shot either. The 12 has to go in the middle pockets, wich are always tough. for more: if u want to draw for the 11 ull need to put some speed on it (at least i do with my barrcue) and we all know how speed and middle pockets never liked eachother. u REALLY dont want to miss the opening shot, and end up with the non stripe balls. wich is why i prefere to just roll the 12 in, and use natural angle for the 15.

bruintje, dont think the 14 is such a problem. (exept potting it maybe, but still a high% pot shot) the position isnt a problem at all. the BIG round area is just where u want to go. doesnt really matter if u are straight on the 11 or not. as long as u are in this circlet u got options enough.

A: to short, pot 11 and just use natural angle to come of one cusion to get position on the 9.
B: straight on , pot the 11 and draw straight between the 8-9
C: to far, pot the 9 first and the use natural angle for the 11.

why i like my rounout:
(i have to tell this, cuz it influences me. i just stared pool, and im playing with barcues: wich means i try to use only natural angles. draw and follow i can play without missing, but as soon as i start using english the barcue makes it very hard to pot a ball)

- many options after the hardest shot = potting the problem ball 14 soon.
- no big distances to roll with the cb = (i play on crappy cloths where i dont got any feel of where my cb is going, so i tend to run out without traveling much. less travel = less chance to run out of position)
- no englisch used = less missing pots for me and my crappy barrcue

im really new to pool, and i like my runouts as easy as possible, as i dont got much control of cb or cloth. solly= poolnoob

here's the picture of why i dont think my runout should be any problem at all.

edit: didnt draw the 9 - 10 - 8 combo not to make it to confusing
edit2: solly very happy, u liked my runout. only playing for 2 months , but doing my best to see what u experts see.
edit3: gonna train after dinnertime, ill do this runout and tell u where i went wrong, or if i did runout