Sanding tip prep for install

northdakotafats

northdakotafats

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've noticed that when I sand a tip for install they turn out convexed. It hasn't been an issue until recently had a Samsara break tip pop off. Is there a trick to sanding it so it is flat. I use 220 grit and go in circle motions but the more I sand the more convexed they get.
 
I would say you are just not putting even pressure, or too much pressure on it when you sand and letting it rock. If you are having trouble with that, just make sure to check after sanding with a straight edge such as an xacto blade edge with a light behind it.
You might try a little less pressure when sanding and when holding the tip, hold it between the thumb and middle finger with the index down on the top. But for me, most of the pressure is on the fingers on ea side not the top. Also, I don't do big circular patterns, but keep it to an inch and a half at most. If you are pressing down on the top the most and doing a bigger circular pattern, the tip is most likely rocking. Tips haven't changed, so it must be you that has.
So, try a different hold, less pressure, and a smaller pattern, and that should help. Also check first before mounting till you are confident in your sanding.
Forgot to say, sometimes I just go side to side an inch or so for a few swipes, then rotate it 90 deg and do that again, and keep doing that till the writing is off.
 
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Since I have a jointer and planer, I can make sure a piece of wood is flat. I put the sandpaper on the wood and use light pressure on the tip to make small circles, both clockwise and counterclockwise. Then I check the tip for flatness on the flat wood. If it rocks or I can see light at the edges, I know I have more work to do. Good luck.
 
Also, make sure the ferrule is FLAT before installing. Goes without saying. I’ve had tips fly off on installing because I didn’t make sure the ferrule was flat.
 
I use 220 grit paper, and the bed of my lathe (best hard and flat surface I have). Push down on the tip and do figure-8. Clean both tip and ferrule with IPA. Lightly score both the ferrule and tip before final glue up. Never lost a tip in hundreds installed.
 
tg_vegas said:
I use 220 grit paper, and the bed of my lathe (best hard and flat surface I have). Push down on the tip and do figure-8. Clean both tip and ferrule with IPA. Lightly score both the ferrule and tip before final glue up. Never lost a tip in hundreds installed.
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exactly, Machinists always sand in a figure 8 motion when flatness is the goal.
 
+1 on the figure 8. I also rotate the tip about 90 degrees every 4 or 5 figure 8s. Make sure your sandpaper is FLAT, if the edges are raised up or curled like with emery cloth, the edges will be sanded more than the middle, causing a convex bottom.

The figure 8 kind of replicates how an orbital sander does, keeps patterns from forming and helps with even sanding.

Emery cloth held flat, figure 8s, and flick the emery cloth every so often to clear out the paper so it cuts. I also watch the bottom of the tip, once it's all matte, it means the sanding is done. This also applies to things like the kamui clear, who wrongly say they don't need sanded. If they didn't need sanded, they would not come out of the box concave, i.e. not flat.


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sanding – The Muse

Posts about sanding written by Christine Cox
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Do this little experiment. Picture a large figure eight on some flat surface near you and slowly rub one finger along it, noting the shift of the pressure on the pad of your finger from front to back and side to side as you complete the course of the symbol.


The same situation happens when you’re sanding. If you sand in a figure eight pattern, you subtly shift your weight from one point to another as you sand along the shape, and therefore the rim stays even. If you just sand back and forth, you’re going to sand a low spot into the rim because you’re putting weight on only limited areas.


It’s such a small change in work habit, but realizing that the change needs to be made is exactly the point where we reach, stretch, and become better smiths and produce better quality work.
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tg_vegas said:
I use 220 grit paper, and the bed of my lathe (best hard and flat surface I have). Push down on the tip and do figure-8. Clean both tip and ferrule with IPA. Lightly score both the ferrule and tip before final glue up. Never lost a tip in hundreds installed.
Click to expand...
exactly, Machinists always sand in a figure 8 motion when flatness is the goal.
 
I use a diamond sharpening stone.

For something as small as a tip, the figure eight is not necessary. I only pull the tip, turning it every stroke. Takes about six strokes.
 
DeeDeeCues said:
I use a diamond sharpening stone.

For something as small as a tip, the figure eight is not necessary. I only pull the tip, turning it every stroke. Takes about six strokes.
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A figure 8 doesn't require turning or 6 strokes,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Renegade_56 said:
A figure 8 doesn't require turning or 6 strokes,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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Depends on the grit used.

Machinist generally use the figure eight on larger items. If you don't know what you are doing, it is easy to rock something as small as a tip, which will create the convex shape the op is describing.

Lapping on a diamond plate is pretty foolproof. The number of strokes isn't really a concern, I have enough stamina and time to spend seven seconds on prepping a tip.
 
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