saw blade

bubsbug

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am still looking for a blade like this one in the attachment. I am getting closer. I have found someone willing to make it if all else fales. His predicted price was only $400. He said the best thing to do was to find something already made and he could alter it accouding, for a lot less.

Anyone know anything about this particular blade.
http://www.toolstoday.com/pc-5270-349-ditec-2000-panel-saw-blades-tc-grind.aspx
 

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bubsbug said:
I am still looking for a blade like this one in the attachment. I am getting closer. I have found someone willing to make it if all else fales. His predicted price was only $400. He said the best thing to do was to find something already made and he could alter it accouding, for a lot less.

Anyone know anything about this particular blade.
http://www.toolstoday.com/pc-5270-349-ditec-2000-panel-saw-blades-tc-grind.aspx

What I believe, is this is what occurs when someone with little or no knowledge, gets an idea from one person, and then in a rush, tries to throw money at a bad idea. This 90 deg. blade at 400.00 and I believe something like 800.00 from Joe, does nothing more than a 25.00 FTG blade or a 12.00 router bit will do just as well.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
What I believe, is this is what occurs when someone with little or no knowledge, gets an idea from one person, and then in a rush, tries to throw money at a bad idea. This 90 deg. blade at 400.00 and I believe something like 800.00 from Joe, does nothing more than a 25.00 FTG blade or a 12.00 router bit will do just as well.

Dick


Perhaps I do have little or no knowledge! Perhaps I am jumping the gun a little but right now it's only research. This makes me more knowledgable. I will say that there are quite a few pm's comming my way concerning this idea. I think that it may be a little presumptious for you to say that it's a bad idea though. maybe a little expensive (please dont make me go there on billiard stuff, everything about billiards cost-$$$$$$$$$$$$) but not necessary a bad idea. I have a table saw that I could use for this one sole purpose, and it only. If I can find one for say $200-$300 im all over it. I have a dato blade that cost $550. One pass in less that one minute and its done. Im just saying right now that it looks to be a winner in my eyes. Send me a clip of something different so that I may see the light as you do!
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, This type of blade would be used to cut the first layers and 'score' the last one so that they can be folded? Sounds very tricky and may waste alot of veneer trying to set it up right. Not to mention, how well does very thin wood fold straight? What if your friend is off say, 1/2 degree? no room to make adjustments then.
I like a method that I believe Dick showed about a month ago where you take a good blade, set the saw for a TRUE 45, then make a jig to hold the veneer flat and straight, then just cut the width you want, then glue the 2 pieces around the point block. I know this is a quick description, there's alot more to it than just this but I think it would be a more accurate method and less waste.
Just my 1/2 cents :)
Dave
 
blade works well

I have to say the way bubs is going isn't a bad way,acually works really well,Joe from cue components does a great demo on the veneer cutting.
 
rhncue said:
What I believe, is this is what occurs when someone with little or no knowledge, gets an idea from one person, and then in a rush, tries to throw money at a bad idea. This 90 deg. blade at 400.00 and I believe something like 800.00 from Joe, does nothing more than a 25.00 FTG blade or a 12.00 router bit will do just as well.

Dick

Hey you got me thinking a little. I could put this router bit on my radial arm saw and use it. I almost forgot about it, It sit in the corner and collects dust. My only concern with using a router bit is tear out on sutch thin material. I would think that a 60 tooth blade would be much cleaner and neater thats all. I could also use the arm saw for many other operations now that I think about it, perhaps I will clean it up some. Thanks
 
bubsbug said:
Hey you got me thinking a little. I could put this router bit on my radial arm saw and use it. I almost forgot about it, It sit in the corner and collects dust. My only concern with using a router bit is tear out on sutch thin material. I would think that a 60 tooth blade would be much cleaner and neater thats all. I could also use the arm saw for many other operations now that I think about it, perhaps I will clean it up some. Thanks

I don't believe I said anything about the 90 deg blade not working, I said there are just as easy and maybe even better ways to get the cut at a much better price. Just because something is the most expensive, certainly does not insure it is the best. If you will look, Your radial arm saw, with the motor tilted at 45 deg, the blade will have the same 90 deg profile that this custom blade has., and will make the exact same 90 deg cut. Why over engineer a very simple operation? The only thing needed is to use a ripping blade as that has a FTG grind so that all teeth have the exact same angle compared to a ATB or such blade which has teeth at different angles.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I don't believe I said anything about the 90 deg blade not working, I said there are just as easy and maybe even better ways to get the cut at a much better price. Just because something is the most expensive, certainly does not insure it is the best. If you will look, Your radial arm saw, with the motor tilted at 45 deg, the blade will have the same 90 deg profile that this custom blade has., and will make the exact same 90 deg cut. Why over engineer a very simple operation? The only thing needed is to use a ripping blade as that has a FTG grind so that all teeth have the exact same angle compared to a ATB or such blade which has teeth at different angles.

Dick
I agree with you the light came on. Do you cut all the way throgh the veneers. repeat the process a second time. You how have two individual peices with 45 degree angles that you butt to one another and glue to have your 90 degree. How do you hold them together? I kept imagining one peice. If you do this, which is possible I find it hard sometimes to make the 2nd cut perfectly in line with where the inside cut lines match up.
 
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