Screw on or Sleeve type Ferrule .... ???

Thanks for the replies guys. I mostly use the pliers because the epoxy squeezeout gets everywhere, including my hands. So I have an old pair of pliers just for that task.

Do you guys also use a clamp for the ferrule, or just rely on the threads to clamp it shut. I use a clamp, but I think I would get the same result without it. And when using a clamp, I'm carefull to center the joint end of the cue and the ferrule end in the clamp's pads, so the force of the clamp doesn't apply uneven pressure to the ferrule. Do you more experienced guys have special clamping setups for ferrules?

Thanks,

Nick
 
Nick:
I have never used a clamp. That's why I thread them, and I only use epoxy for the glue with white pigment.
 
Michael Webb said:
Nick:
I have never used a clamp. That's why I thread them, and I only use epoxy for the glue with white pigment.
Click to expand...
Hey Mike,

I've never used a clamp either. I really don't have to, the way i do it. I use 5 min. epoxy on the threaded part of the tenon only (with white glue on the shoulder, same result as white pigment.) And use a brush for that and on the inside threads in the ferrule. I let them both sit for around 2.5-3.0 minutes, then thread then together, very quickly. As soon as i tighten the ferrule down to the shoulder, you can get it off... so there is no need for a clamp, with that method.
Oh, and it helps to have a "rod" the same size as the weep hole in the ferrule, as you don't want it accidentally plugged up :) .

Thanks,

Jon
 
Mike...epoxy with white pigment....

Before I knew about the trick to heat ferrules with friction to get them off, I used to cut them off (by turning! not "chopping" them off). When I got close to the tenon, I would peel the remaining ferrule and glue off from between the threads with an exacto knife. It worked quite well, and I was left with clean threads. This is because the epoxy would peel right off of the wood.

BUT, there were maybe two ferrule jobs I did that didn't work well at all. The epoxy was bonded to the wood extremely well, and I couldn't "peel" it off. I ended up picking up the thread with my single point threading tool to dig out the epoxy, and preserving the thread. But this epoxy was white in both cases, where as the easy to peel type was always clear.

So does the white you add to your epoxy add strength, or just color. What type of epoxy do you think were the ones I encountered? I understand if you don't want to answer...

Thanks,

Nick
 
I use the G5 by West systems. I also have a 1 gallon dispenser for accurate mixing. I bring it to tournaments also. Makes life much easier and more professional. I use the pigment to avoid a glue line between the ferrule and shaft. I put the epoxy of the tenon as well as inside the ferrule. I adjust the size of the tenon because of the epoxy versus white or yellow glue. Approximate 80 to 85 percent thread. This way I can do all ferrule materials the same way including ivory. When the ferrules are screwed down I give an 1/8 turn. I also hold the shaft while doing this.

Hope this helps.
 
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