Sealers

Cue Crazy

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
There are certainly a host of different sealers out there to try. I ran accross one that's phenolic resin based. Wondering If anyone has tried them Before? This was a clear sealer according to the description, but I have no idea how clear it goes on and dries to.
Any info would very much be apprietiated If anyone here has tried them before. Thanks, Greg
 
is there a web address?

Many have tried a few sealers but cannot comment if we do not know the name or web address of the product you allude to.
 
Are there alot out there that are phenolic based? The one I saw is made By Pettit, It's called old salem I believe, so not sure how clear It is. It's #2018 clear sealer. It's made for priming wood, and probably marine grade I would imagine, altough I could be wrong. Besides the clarity, there would be many other questions such as how well It sticks to metals and plastic, as well as- how well finishes would bond to it.
 
Why mess around and not use one is tested not to turn yellow and is good?
West with 207 hardener or System III.
:)
 
:rolleyes::D That's another reason I'm asking, Not sure If It's UV, so along with the other stuff, I was wondering exactly what you mention, whether it was worth messing with. It's no sweat, just something I saw, and thought possibly Might have heard mentioned once before, so I was curious. West may be good, but I'm always interested in new things, especially if the prices are good, as well as the product It'self. Maybe others have luck with system three, but can't say It's the perfect sealer for Me. I still have most of a kit of It that I don't even use. It's probably gone bad by now. I like their structural expoxies though, but even those I need to re-up on again, and was thinking of trying something new out this time.
 
Sealer

JoeyInCali said:
Why mess around and not use one is tested not to turn yellow and is good?
West with 207 hardener or System III.
:)
Click to expand...

The system III T-88? Does it work well? Do you just spin it on with a rubber glove?
 
phenolic...

All they're saying is that this is an epoxy type sealer. Many epoxies are phenolics, as they contain the chemical phenol. Epoxy is a thermoset plastic.


Joey, I also like the System-III CC penetrating sealer. It was a little difficult to use at first, but I got my technique down.

A few tips; make sure that your ratio is EXACTLY 1:2 by VOLUME, not weight. Otherwise this product doesn't cure properly. (I now have a set of plastic measuring cups marked "resin" and "hardener" respectively) Also, make sure to put on the absolute thinest coat you can. This stuff does not do well if there is ANY build-up.
 
class act said:
All they're saying is that this is an epoxy type sealer. Many epoxies are phenolics, as they contain the chemical phenol. Epoxy is a thermoset plastic.


Joey, I also like the System-III CC penetrating sealer. It was a little difficult to use at first, but I got my technique down.

A few tips; make sure that your ratio is EXACTLY 1:2 by VOLUME, not weight. Otherwise this product doesn't cure properly. (I now have a set of plastic measuring cups marked "resin" and "hardener" respectively) Also, make sure to put on the absolute thinest coat you can. This stuff does not do well if there is ANY build-up.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the info. I still have some that I was going to try again. Curious what are you applying the sys. 3 clear cote with to get it on thin enough? Rubber gloves seem like they would grab, but then again I have'nt tried them with this stuff yet. I mixed By volume the first time, but may have went too thick on the cote, so I was going to try It thinner as if I was doing a rub application, just have'nt tried It yet.:)

Thanks, Greg
 
the thinner the better

CC-

You can either use a glove or a squeegee. I prefer the glove. Every time I try to use a squeegee of some sort, I get lines from where the edges drag. The best is simply a nitrile glove. The S3 CC is thin enough that it won't be much of a problem.

Just remember the thinner the coat, the better it will cure.
 
class act said:
CC-

You can either use a glove or a squeegee. I prefer the glove. Every time I try to use a squeegee of some sort, I get lines from where the edges drag. The best is simply a nitrile glove. The S3 CC is thin enough that it won't be much of a problem.

Just remember the thinner the coat, the better it will cure.
Click to expand...

Just curious, How long does it take this stuff to dry before scuffing and a finish put over it?

Dick
 
Enduro

Has anyone ever tried or had success with Enduro sanding sealer? I think they got bought out but I was just curious if it was any good for an undercoat.
 
class act said:
CC-

You can either use a glove or a squeegee. I prefer the glove. Every time I try to use a squeegee of some sort, I get lines from where the edges drag. The best is simply a nitrile glove. The S3 CC is thin enough that it won't be much of a problem.

Just remember the thinner the coat, the better it will cure.
Click to expand...




Thanks, I'll give It another try. Maybe if I get It on thin enough It will harden better. Think I'll try It on scrap at first just to be safe. Last time I tried the stuff It did'nt harden very well, and was impossible to prep for finish. I ended up having to strip the stuff off.
 
sounds like...

CC-

Sounds like you had too thick of a coat on... That's a common mistake. The other problem would be an imbalanced mixture of the resin / hardener. The 1:2 ration is very important when dealing with a low viscosity sealer coat like this one.

BTW-> The Sys-III sets up in 20 min. (I wait closer to 30 before ceasing rotation of the cue). Within 24 hours it can be sanded back down to meet your wood grain.

Happy Cueing!
 
class act said:
CC-

Sounds like you had too thick of a coat on... That's a common mistake. The other problem would be an imbalanced mixture of the resin / hardener. The 1:2 ration is very important when dealing with a low viscosity sealer coat like this one.

BTW-> The Sys-III sets up in 20 min. (I wait closer to 30 before ceasing rotation of the cue). Within 24 hours it can be sanded back down to meet your wood grain.

Happy Cueing!
Click to expand...




Thanks, I had the ratio correct, and was really carefull with that. I think I just went on too thick like you say. I'll try a test piece, then give It a shot on one that's just about ready to seal, and see if that makes a difference.

Greg
 
Enduro was bought out by General finishes, so it should be available in the future. I think its a great sealer, just don't put it on too thick. Dries fast and sands perfectly. Won't fill pores like the epoxies. Only thing with the epoxies, and I may be wrong, but a lot of them will yellow with age. I personnally don't like the amber cast from west. If you spin on epoxy, be carefull not to pull colors, especially with rosewoods. That's why I like to spray a light coat of Enduro. Chester Krick was experimenting with their topcoat. Said he was having some pretty good success. Unfortuneately his untimely death ended the experiment. Although a lot of what Joe B.
says can be taken lightly, his experiment with uv light on epoxies is pretty much right on.
 
CK passed away in early December.
I just did some reading about the original sealer listed in this link.
Pettit marine sealer. After reading the PDS on it, I think I would pass.
It's linseed oil based and not good on wood's like teak, so I read that as oily woods. They make a sealer for teak, that is tung oil based, but I'd pass on that also. Another caveat is that it's not good on course grain woods, so looks like it's not what we would be looking for. The best pore filler I have found is UV cured, so that goes into the expensive catagory and is not cost efficient for most cuemakers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top