Secrets to a killer break

[Onepocket73]

How would you recommend breaking on a bar box?

I have tried several methods and havent narrowed it down yet...a lot of methods end up in a ball going off the table...

Side breaks in particular, I cant get those to stay on the table...Does it have to do with the smaller size of the table? A shorter distance between the cb and the rack...?

A bar table isn't big enough to generate the speed that gets generated on a big table.Not enough distance between the Cue Ball and the rack.
The most important aspect of a bar table 9-ball break is hitting the 1 as squarely as possible with center ball.
If I am jumping the cue ball off the table,I immediately reduce my power by 30%.I am trying to get comfortable breaking.Most of the reason for jumping the cue ball is nervousness and fear.This has been true for me.Once I get comfortable breaking at 65% speed,I will go ahead and start laying into it,unless of course,at 65% I am pocketing balls and controlling the cue-ball.Remember,the break is about pocketing balls,not power.Power just helps to pocket balls at times.

 

[Slider]

So... what about the cue?

Not as in what type of cue, or what type of space-age tip, etc, but weight.

I have this theory that a light cue can be brought up to speed faster and therefore delivers a greater/faster blow to the cueball. I have a 16 oz. purpleheart Chudy conversion/sneaker that I use for breaking, and once I got accustomed to the light weight, I am able to break very well with it. Breaking with a light cue does feel peculiar at first, but with a little practice your arm adapts.

Only complaint I have with it, is that on a busy night, it tends to end up doing duty as a house stick for the unwashed masses, and I have to hunt it down.

Ken

 

[Slider]

I think this might be psychological.

A bar table isn't big enough to generate the speed that gets generated on a big table. Not enough distance between the Cue Ball and the rack.

As soon as the cueball leaves the tip of your cue, it starts to slow down, so the closer the cueball and rack are, the more energy will be released in the collision.

I can see where the closeness of the rack might cause the breaker to not follow through as much, or to "pull" his stroke a little, but it doesn't have to be that way.

Ken

 

[Onepocket73]

Oh Definitely!! The stick means a lot.Weight has to be evenly distributed throughout the cue.If the butt is real beefy and the shaft real skinny,I have a hard time controlling the cue ball.Most important for me is how well the Butt fits into my hand.It has to fit comfortably.
Weight isn't really an issue for me,though I do prefer lighter.But 16oz seems like a toothpick!Never tried one that light.Seems like hitting a league ball with a whiffle ball bat......

 

[whitey2]

my comments

Hi,

I believe it is well known that a lighter cue can be brought up
to speed faster. I think I read about it first in Bob Byrne's
Advanced book (I sold the book long ago).

As far as a barbox, I think the difference lies in the fact that
since the table is smaller, the distance between the end rail
and the headstring is smaller, and thus there is less room for
the cue to be brought up to speed. I break with the cue ball
an inch or two to the right of the head spot, and use a closed
bridge as far as I can get back to the end rail, but have my
bridge hand on the table bed, not the rail.

 

[Onepocket73]

As soon as the cueball leaves the tip of your cue, it starts to slow down, so the closer the cueball and rack are, the more energy will be released in the collision.

I can see where the closeness of the rack might cause the breaker to not follow through as much, or to "pull" his stroke a little, but it doesn't have to be that way.

Ken

Very interesting,I wouldn't think that.So you are saying that maximum cue ball speed is at the moment of impact between the tip and cue ball?Is this a known fact?
I am just using my own opinion,well,educated opinion that is

 

[Onepocket73]

Hi,

I believe it is well known that a lighter cue can be brought up
to speed faster. I think I read about it first in Bob Byrne's
Advanced book (I sold the book long ago).

As far as a barbox, I think the difference lies in the fact that
since the table is smaller, the distance between the end rail
and the headstring is smaller, and thus there is less room for
the cue to be brought up to speed. I break with the cue ball
an inch or two to the right of the head spot, and use a closed
bridge as far as I can get back to the end rail, but have my
bridge hand on the table bed, not the rail.

Another aspect of control with the break for me lies in the bridge length.In other words,the distance between the cue ball and my bridging hand.That has to be the right length.If it's too long,I lose control.If it's too short,I lose power.I would say that optimal performance for me is between 6-8 inches.

 

[berlowmj]

Break drill

IMO, the break is all about stroke mechanics and timing of weight transfer. What I like to do is practice with only the cue ball... place it on the headstring and one diamond from a side rail. Get down into position, aim for the first diamond on the short rail you're facing... follow your normal pre- break shot routine and then unload on whitey.

Does it zing downtable?... and also return to the vicinity of you cue tip???... it should!!!

If if doesn't work on your stroke mechanics and your weight transfer... until you get whitey zinging and coming straight back to your cue tip... repeatably.

Once you get happening, rack 'em up and hit the rack. You should see an improvement.

I intuitively developed your drill, before reading this post. Perhaps it was a function of wisdom or more likely being too lazy to rack the balls each time. 2 questions:

1. Please define "weight transfer."

2. I often find that skilled opponents give me a better rack than I give myself. It is especially difficult when the racking spot is worn off.

Please describe a good procedure for consistently racking the balls, short of using a Sardo rack, which I have only seen in pictures.

 

[Slider]

So you are saying that maximum cue ball speed is at the moment of impact between the tip and cue ball?Is this a known fact?

No, not at the moment of impact, because at that point the tip has yet to compress and impart all of its energy to the cueball, but as soon as the impact is over and the tip and cueball part company, the cueball definitely starts to slow down, just as a bullet fired from a gun starts to slow down and fall to earth as soon as it leaves the barrel. (the bullet thing is a known ballistic fact)

Now, this is a theoretical slowing down, and it is no doubt a very small amount, but it does happen. The difference in the cueball's speed when it hits the rack between a bar table and a 9 footer (cloth, etc being equal) would be very small, and I only tossed it out there for discussion because it exists.

I am just using my own opinion,well,educated opinion that is

Same here. Not being one of the elite pool physicists, this is all seat-of-the-pants theory and opinion that I have picked up over the years. Maybe someone of knowledge and authority could post a definitive answer.

Ken

 

[Onepocket73]

I love discussions about the break.So many different styles out there,yet,velocity is achieved basically the same way.Much,much like a pro golf swing.....all are different looking,but share the same basic fundamentals at the most critical points of the arc,mainly the start of the downswing and positions through hitting area.Study many good swings in slow motion and you will see what I mean.

 

[Slider]

I love discussions about the break.So many different styles out there,yet,velocity is achieved basically the same way.Much,much like a pro golf swing.....all are different looking,but share the same basic fundamentals at the most critical points of the arc,mainly the start of the downswing and positions through hitting area.Study many good swings in slow motion and you will see what I mean.

Yep. I think the art of a good break is a matter of coordinating all of the essential elements; the 'lunge', the stroke, the wrist snap and follow-through, etc. so that they all peak at the optimum moment. Someday I'll be able to do that, I bet...

In the meantime, I'm starting to play again after a 4 year hiatus, and struggling with my one-pocket break on a 9' table. I'm using high-inside, about 4" from the side rail, and keep scratching. I used to make a ball in my pocket every once in a while doing this, but not anymore. Am I hitting too much of the head ball or not enough? Am I too close to the side rail?
The other day I even tried striking the last two corner balls and still scratched. You know it's bad when you win the lag and tell your opponent to break the balls.

Ken

 

[Onepocket73]

Yep. I think the art of a good break is a matter of coordinating all of the essential elements; the 'lunge', the stroke, the wrist snap and follow-through, etc. so that they all peak at the optimum moment. Someday I'll be able to do that, I bet...

In the meantime, I'm starting to play again after a 4 year hiatus, and struggling with my one-pocket break on a 9' table. I'm using high-inside, about 4" from the side rail, and keep scratching. I used to make a ball in my pocket every once in a while doing this, but not anymore. Am I hitting too much of the head ball or not enough? Am I too close to the side rail?
The other day I even tried striking the last two corner balls and still scratched. You know it's bad when you win the lag and tell your opponent to break the balls.

Ken

The One Pocket break is high inside,making sure to just barely brush the head ball.Scratching usually happens when you rack incorrectly.The back corner ball escapes quickly off of the rack causing the cue ball to kiss off of it and into the corner.Hitting the head ball too full or not at all doesn't normally cause a scratch.It's usually just a sell out.Are you scratching off the ball like I said or differently?

 

[icem3n]

stretch your arm in front of you
open up your palmhand
put your hand verticaly (thumbs up)
point your fingers downwards
now CLOSE your hand as fast as you can.

see what the wrist does. thats a wrist whip i think

but its the body who coordinates the whip. its the body who pushes the fingers behind/downwards. it moves some time after the body moves and trails.. (check my post on best break video. it is also explained there)

Yeah, Almost like what Jeff De Luna said when he was demonstrating to one player in "ONE SIDE BILLIARD - pool hall in Philippine". He snap his wrist and his fingers grip the cue tightly just right before hitting the cueball. It is almost like the way you execute a jump shot.