shaft cleaning

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poolkeumoori

New member
Dear Poolfriends and makers,

I'm a beginning cuesalesman and i'm having a lot of intrest in the maintenance of cues.
Can anyone tell me what the best way is to clean the shaft, to get rid of the dirt and chalk.

Many thanks from holland,

Poolkeumoori
 
clean

I suggest using either q-clean or clorox magic wipes, and then conditionning with a good cue wax if desired, or I use Slip Stic, Some people use sandpaper, but I cringe at the thought of somebody putting sandpaper on one of my shafts. as long as you keep your hands clean the cue should stay clean as well after a good conditioning.
 
For simply cleaning shafts...any good wood paste wax. Rub a generous amount on the shaft with a rag and continue rubbing until it heats up a bit. Then with a clean, soft, dry cloth...rub again. Presto...you're done!
 
Varney Cues said:
For simply cleaning shafts...any good wood paste wax. Rub a generous amount on the shaft with a rag and continue rubbing until it heats up a bit. Then with a clean, soft, dry cloth...rub again. Presto...you're done!
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Varney Cues - Will using paste wax as you recommend remove the chalk embedded in crevices? I've never found anything that removes this chalk except Magic Eraser, and I hesitate to use it again. The one time I used Magic Eraser my shaft absorbed a lot of water - my fault, I'm sure. Wax sounds a lot safer, if it can really get to this chalk. Thanks.
 
Rich93 said:
Varney Cues - Will using paste wax as you recommend remove the chalk embedded in crevices? I've never found anything that removes this chalk except Magic Eraser, and I hesitate to use it again. The one time I used Magic Eraser my shaft absorbed a lot of water - my fault, I'm sure. Wax sounds a lot safer, if it can really get to this chalk. Thanks.
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The wax isn't removing that chalk.

You don't have to use water with Magic Eraser. If you believe in magic eraser cleaning the embedded chalk without damaging the shaft, use it in number 1 below in place of paper towels.

1. Denatured alcohol (or someone's secret shaft cleaning mixture) + paper towels or micro fiber cloths
2. Burnishing with a piece of leather or even a dollar bill
3. A little carnauba wax every now and then (everytime you clean the shaft is not necessary)
4. Buff the wax with some more paper towels/cloth
5. Burnishing again with a piece of leather or even a dollar bill

Everyone has their own idea, you can throw a sealer stage in there, some people use micro fibers cloths... The important things are use a solution to clean that evaporates quickly and the shaft will not absorb, sealer/wax every now and then to seal and fill in between grains and pores and buff the rest off, and then a good burnishing to glaze the surface so the shaft will seal itself to keep it clean longer and very smooth.
Kelly
 
Rich93 said:
I've never found anything that removes this chalk except Magic Eraser, and I hesitate to use it again. The one time I used Magic Eraser my shaft absorbed a lot of water -
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I believe, you can not beat Magic Eraser combined with denatured alcohol. Use it generously and rub in a linear motion (not spinning). When you have it all clean, dry it well, burnish with leather and apply Slip Stik. Your shaft will look and feel great.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I believe, you can not beat Magic Eraser combined with denatured alcohol. Use it generously and rub in a linear motion (not spinning). When you have it all clean, dry it well, burnish with leather and apply Slip Stik. Your shaft will look and feel great.
Tracy
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I agree!!! I've been using it for nearly a year now. It does remove the patina as well though, so if that's a concern, find a different cleaner that's not quite as effective.

Using wax to clean a shaft is not the best idea. All it will do is cover up and seal the chalk and dirt into the pores of the wood.
 
There are many products that clean very well, altough some may be questionable upon whether they should be used for shaft cleaning. How bad the shaft is determains what means are nessesary to get a full on cleaning. I would like to however point out that If You use a wax, It should be used as a final polish. There may be some that I am unaware of, but from My experience once the wax is on, that is as good as sealing, and your cleaning capabilities diminish, or at a minimum decrease considerability. The magic erasers work well in conjuction with other products.
Greg
 
Best method

poolkeumoori said:
Dear Poolfriends and makers,

I'm a beginning cuesalesman and i'm having a lot of intrest in the maintenance of cues.
Can anyone tell me what the best way is to clean the shaft, to get rid of the dirt and chalk.

Many thanks from holland,

Poolkeumoori
Click to expand...
I believe the absolute best method is to take it to a professional and let him do what he does.

Every method I have read here is generally good and effective in the hands of a conscientious user. There is no real way to tell someone how much or how little water to use, how much or how little force to use, how much or how little product to use, etc. Trial and error can do great harm to the shaft of a novice.

My advice...put you shaft and your customers' shafts in the hands of a pro. Create a relationship with a reputable one and then you concentrate on selling. Let HIM clean the hundreds of cues you sell.

Gene
 
poolkeumoori said:
Dear Poolfriends and makers,

I'm a beginning cuesalesman and i'm having a lot of intrest in the maintenance of cues.
Can anyone tell me what the best way is to clean the shaft, to get rid of the dirt and chalk.

Many thanks from holland,

Poolkeumoori
Click to expand...

Hallo daar! A fellow dutchman on the forum. Welcome! I always use denatured alcohol for every day cleaning of my shaft, and use Balbo sponsjes (Dutch product) available at Kruidvat for the intense cleaning, also combined with denatured alcohol. After that burnish with leather or paper.

gr. Dave
 
I use a little powdered Comet cleaner on a dampened clean white kitchen rag and stroke it back and forth briskly a few times until I see most of the color leave. I do this several times using a fresh rag and more cleaner then do it again with a clean damp rag once more to remove any residue. I take another dry clean white towel and repeat to remove moisture and remaining cleaner. I let the shaft stand tip up in a rack vertically until completely dry. I chuck it up in my metal lathe and turn it about 1,400 rpm and start with 400 grit then 600, 1,000, 1,500, and finish with 2,000. Finally I use Porper's Qwax and burnish it with a leather pad. Comes out clean and slick as a whistle every time. Even works on Predator shafts if you use very little moisture. (I know Predator says not to use water!!!)
John
 
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