Shaft collar concentricity

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have noticed on many shafts, both custom and mass produced, that the joint collar is noticeably not concentric with the axis of the shaft. You can sight along the end of the shaft and see that the wall thickness of the collar is not constant around its entire perimeter.

I have come up with two reasons why this is so:

1. The collar is threaded. This would explain the uneven wall thickness because making a flat cut would reveal the major diameter of the thread on one side of the collar and the minor diameter on the other. This would give the appearance of a non-concentric collar, when in fact it actually may be concentric.

2. The collar is not treaded, but it was installed early on in the shaft building process. Then, when the shaft was turned on one of the later setups, it was not centered the same way as it originally was. This would lead to a non-concentric joint collar. ***(This also leads to non-concentric ferrules. I've come across ferrules that I replaced that were WAY off center)

Questions:

1. Is there another reason why the collars would not be concentric with the shaft?

2. Whenever I come across a cue like this, especially from a custom maker, I become extremely disappointed. Do you feel this is an area that can be used to judge the quality of a cuemaker?

3. Do you thread the collars and accept the perceived non-concentricity, or do you not thread them for a symmetric appearance?

4. It would also be possible to thread the collar, except for a lip that would be unthreaded, and would be visible on the end of the shaft. This would give the appearance of concentricity, and a threaded collar. What is your opinions on this?
 
It is not uncommon for cue makers to put the collars on the shafts while they are in the turning stages. Another option would be, not using sanding mandrells, which would explain the fact that if you need another shaft you would have to send the butt back to the maker. Another reason would be the cue maker using a rod sander on his cues. In which case the rod sander will cut into the carbide mandrell thus changing it's outer diameter. I put my collars just before the final cut. My final cut puts me with in .010 to minimize
sanding.
 
I am not quite following your response. What is a "rod sander"? I imagine its some type of automatic feed drum sander???

Just to make sure we are using the same terminology, when you say mandrel, do you mean a turned piece with the joint thread on one end, and a round surface on the other that can be held in the lathe/sanding machine? If this is what you mean, then why would the mandrel need to be carbide? And why would the "rod sander" touch it?
 
sander

iusedtoberich said:
I am not quite following your response. What is a "rod sander"? I imagine its some type of automatic feed drum sander???

Just to make sure we are using the same terminology, when you say mandrel, do you mean a turned piece with the joint thread on one end, and a round surface on the other that can be held in the lathe/sanding machine? If this is what you mean, then why would the mandrel need to be carbide? And why would the "rod sander" touch it?

I see mkie hasn't answered as yet.
A rod or dowel sander is a machinne that will sand the butt or shaft from one end to the other very fast and smooth.. The carbide fittings must be "carbide" so the sander takes down the cue joints to size and you can repeat this with the mandrals many times. The wood does get smaller as you want it to. however the carbide stays the same size.
I have been using these for about 20 years now. I have replaced mine 2 times. They, after 10 or 12 years did get about .002" smaller. So I replaced them. Mike use to make them for cuemakers as i. I still build them for cue makers. if interested, ask me or mike.
blud
 
Thanks Blud, sorry. Been a little busy, I want to leave tonight for the tournament. See you at the expo.
 
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