Shaft Problem

R

RSB-Refugee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I got a new cue a couple weeks ago, Romero sneaky pete. Last night I was playing, I noticed a streak on the shaft it was somewhat blueish. I tried to rub it off, with no luck. I then tried my 3M Microfiber Cloth, which was also unsuccesful. I then licked my thumb to see if a little spit and elbow grease might help. Well if you haven't guessed by now, don't ever try this, it made it almost like a smudge. I should have waited and cleaned it at home. Next I tried to remove the smudge with my thumbnail, which gave it a real rough feel. I know I can get it clean and smooth, but I want to know how to seal it afterwards to slow the eventual discoloration.

Tracy
 
Michael Webb said:
Are you sure it didn't rub on the pocket.
Click to expand...
It was long like that, but not black. It is an old Brunswick t-rail with the leather pockets. It was definitely blue colored, I thought it may have been chalk. Not sure what caused it, I just know I want it gone. ;)

Tracy
 
Just had the wife pick up some Mr. clean magic erasers and it worked great on the bluing. Try it.
 
ATM said:
Just had the wife pick up some Mr. clean magic erasers and it worked great on the bluing. Try it.
Click to expand...
I have Mr Clean ME, I too can recommend it. This was more of a smudge or something. I got rid of it with lighter fluid then smoothed it up. I was mainly concerned with a way to seal after the cleaning and smoothing. I think I am leaning towards a shellac type sealer. Thanks for the tip even if it was not what I was looking for. :) I think the main lesson learned here is, when away from your goodies, don't try to improvise (spit on thumb). ;)

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
I have Mr Clean ME, I too can recommend it. This was more of a smudge or something. I got rid of it with lighter fluid then smoothed it up. I was mainly concerned with a way to seal after the cleaning and smoothing. I think I am leaning towards a shellac type sealer. Thanks for the tip even if it was not what I was looking for. :) I think the main lesson learned here is, when away from your goodies, don't try to improvise (spit on thumb). ;)

Tracy
Click to expand...
No expert here but I usually dont put anything except like cuetec cue cleaner, then burnish the shaft with an undyed piece of leather, I believe the burnishing heats the shaft and seals the pores. Cuemakers chime in here?
 
Take my word for it that there is a 99.9% chance your Romero pete is finished with a wiping lacquer made by the Behlen company called "Woodturners Finish." Costs about $16.00 for a plastic quart bottle and is widely available at woodworking stores and suppliers.

Simply clean shaft with damp and then dry towel, lightly sand with 600 grit, wipe down, tape off ferrule, and apply a coat with a waded rag or paper towel as your rotate the shaft by hand. Remove ferrule tape quickly. Dries to the touch in an hour or less and is completely dry in one day. I usually take 1800 micro mesh to the first 10" of the shaft after the wiping lacquer is dry and then burnish with leather. Hope that helps.

BTW, I highly prefer this type finish on a sneaky pete as you can still feel the wood--automotive high gloss finishes are too slick for me.

Martin


RSB-Refugee said:
I got a new cue a couple weeks ago, Romero sneaky pete. Last night I was playing, I noticed a streak on the shaft it was somewhat blueish. I tried to rub it off, with no luck. I then tried my 3M Microfiber Cloth, which was also unsuccesful. I then licked my thumb to see if a little spit and elbow grease might help. Well if you haven't guessed by now, don't ever try this, it made it almost like a smudge. I should have waited and cleaned it at home. Next I tried to remove the smudge with my thumbnail, which gave it a real rough feel. I know I can get it clean and smooth, but I want to know how to seal it afterwards to slow the eventual discoloration.

Tracy
Click to expand...
 
Tracy,

Do you have a lathe to refinish on? I don't remember reading whether you do or Not. Refinishing the shaft is not as hard as finishing a cue bottom section, but sure you aready know It is best done with the use of atleast a cleaner lathe, and a way to mount the shaft properly in It.

If you don't mind buying a sealer from someone, then there are few people that sell It for cue shafts. That's what I used to use, and worked for me at one time. I know of nothing over the counter so to speak that does not need custom mixed for shaft use, altough there may be something I am not aware of. The sealer I mix up is fast drying, and I just about have to custom mix every batch, because even If I write a mixture down, the next time I still need to ajust It some anyway. For ocasional use the stuff made up for shafts is worth the money to buy, because you will spend more trying to custom mix anyhow, and You have to keep testing the batch till you get It right. I have gotton to the point where I use about three different mixtures now for different players preferences, some dry slower then the other, but most still dry pretty quickly.

I don't know that's what happened, but mike may have a good point there with the pockets. The rubber type will rub off on a shaft leaving a black mark, and the chalk can stick to that giving a blue appearence. If you saw black when you smudged It trying to wipe It off, then that may be a good indication.


Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top