Shaft question

Palmerfan

AzB Gold Member
Silver Member
I have an old Viking Cue that I have been using lately that has a 5/16 x 18 piloted joint and the shaft for it is slightly warped..not unplayable but noticeable when rolled together on the table (bowed at the taper). I have been shooting with it for about 3 hrs yesterday and 2 hrs a couple of days before that, and was trying out 90/90 aiming and TOI...short and midrange shots were no problem for either but long range shots were way over/under cut with both 90/90 and TOI..not rattling but actually driven into the rails short or long, pretty bad. Wanted to know from the "A" players or better if this is probably the shaft.

Im going to use a different cue tomorrow and see if there is a noticeable change so I'm sure some people would say figure it out for yourself..I basically want to know if its time to trash the shaft..and also can a shaft like that be straightened. Its tough to find a 5/16x18 piloted with the "pearl ring" like some of the palmers have...as this shaft does so would rather save it if possible.

Thanks
 
I'm not claiming to be an A player, so feel free to ignore my opinion if you like.

When I tried 90/90 I noticed the same thing on longer shots. I think it works great if the cue ball and object ball are on the same half of the table. Longer shots require some adjustment. I can't speak for TOI, maybe if you're lucky CJ will see your post.

I don't think it's the shaft. Do you have problems with this shaft when aiming using your usual method?
 
I'm not claiming to be an A player, so feel free to ignore my opinion if you like.

When I tried 90/90 I noticed the same thing on longer shots. I think it works great if the cue ball and object ball are on the same half of the table. Longer shots require some adjustment. I can't speak for TOI, maybe if you're lucky CJ will see your post.

I don't think it's the shaft. Do you have problems with this shaft when aiming using your usual method?

Long shots are tough period, but missing by a bigger margin using this shaft, I PM'd CJ

Thanks
 
Post again after you've tried a different shaft.

Obviously, you understand it COULD be the shaft, but if it's just a slight warp I still don't think I'd blame the shaft especially if the warp is more rearward. There is probably more movement in tip position in the stroke than would be introduced by such a slight warp. Does the tip leave the table when you roll the cue?

Generally, if memory serves, you'd tend to over cut longer shots without adjusting using 90/90. I should also say I didn't get a lesson from Ron on 90/90. I messed around based solely on Cleary's YouTube video (maybe you could try PMing him as well). I assume you're doing the same, so there may be something neither of us is aware of in the system. If I get out tonight I'll play around with it again just to be sure.
 
Is it warped to the left, or to the right? Or, is it warped up, or down? It makes a big difference when aiming. :)
 
Post again after you've tried a different shaft.

Obviously, you understand it COULD be the shaft, but if it's just a slight warp I still don't think I'd blame the shaft especially if the warp is more rearward. There is probably more movement in tip position in the stroke than would be introduced by such a slight warp. Does the tip leave the table when you roll the cue?

Generally, if memory serves, you'd tend to over cut longer shots without adjusting using 90/90. I should also say I didn't get a lesson from Ron on 90/90. I messed around based solely on Cleary's YouTube video (maybe you could try PMing him as well). I assume you're doing the same, so there may be something neither of us is aware of in the system. If I get out tonight I'll play around with it again just to be sure.

Thanks, I took lessons from Ron for 6 months, 2 years ago and stopped playing...just started playing again this month so I'm VERY rusty..but if you find anything let me know, as I'm much more comfortable with 90/90.
 
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