Shaft Runout / Wobble

ScottR

ScottR

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I apologize if anyone feels this topic is inappropriate in this section, but I feel it relates to buying and selling.

In reading the "New Cue Defects" thread in the Cue Gallery section, cueaddicts (Sean) expressed his opinion about shaft runout or wobble. I happen to agree completely with him and have found very few shafts that did not move at some point. There was also another opinion stated that "acceptable" straightness was dependent on whether you are the buyer or seller.

I realize the difference in acceptable shaft straightness is very subjective. Also, apparent shaft straightness (when rolled on a table) can be a factor of joint facing and have nothing to do with the shaft itself. There are also different criteria among various groupings of cue: old/collectible, new, lower price range, higher cost, etc.

Due to various shaft tapers, quality of the ferrule/tip work, joint facing, etc., and unless you put the shaft on a lathe that is running dead nuts true and measure it with an accurate device, can you really say it's not straight?

What are your thoughts? When does "wobble" become unacceptable? Thanks, in advance.
 
I would say

1/32" would be okay, anything more would not.
Let's see, that is about .003 tolerance, but to be
fair, let's say .005 would be okay (aircraft manufacturer's
normal tolerance level), anything more would not.
 
Snapshot9 said:
1/32" would be okay, anything more would not.
Let's see, that is about .003 tolerance, but to be
fair, let's say .005 would be okay (aircraft manufacturer's
normal tolerance level), anything more would not.
Click to expand...

1/32" is .03, not .003. I believe .03 run out would be on the high end, .01 more the norm.

I believe if you took a used shaft (years of playing) to a lathe, chucked it up at the joint end and measured run out at the tip end with a dial indicator, if it is .005 you have a shaft that after years of use is amazingly straight. I believe most cuesmiths when working on people's shafts notice some run out.

Kelly
 
ScottR said:
I apologize if anyone feels this topic is inappropriate in this section, but I feel it relates to buying and selling.

In reading the "New Cue Defects" thread in the Cue Gallery section, cueaddicts (Sean) expressed his opinion about shaft runout or wobble. I happen to agree completely with him and have found very few shafts that did not move at some point. There was also another opinion stated that "acceptable" straightness was dependent on whether you are the buyer or seller.

I realize the difference in acceptable shaft straightness is very subjective. Also, apparent shaft straightness (when rolled on a table) can be a factor of joint facing and have nothing to do with the shaft itself. There are also different criteria among various groupings of cue: old/collectible, new, lower price range, higher cost, etc.

Due to various shaft tapers, quality of the ferrule/tip work, joint facing, etc., and unless you put the shaft on a lathe that is running dead nuts true and measure it with an accurate device, can you really say it's not straight?

What are your thoughts? When does "wobble" become unacceptable? Thanks, in advance.
Click to expand...

Hey Scott, how's it going buddy?

Your post reminds me of a saying in coin collecting...when a dealer is buying a coin, he undergrades it by 15 points, when he is selling a coin he overgrades it by 15 points...

A lot of times you read a cue for sale that says.. there is some wobble, but it doesn't affect the way it plays... and you think... if I'm buying a cue...I don't want any wobble... right? So in that regard, the poster you alluded to is sort of correct regarding accetable wobble for buying/selling is different.

You say "unless you put the shaft on a lathe that is running dead nuts true and measure it with an accurate device, can you really say it's not straight?"

You can also say "unless you put the shaft on a lathe that is running dead nuts true and measure it with an accurate device, can you really say IT IS straight?"

In my opinion, all you can really do is describe if the cue rolls straight while joined, and if the two pieces roll straight individually. That sometimes can tell you if it could be a facing problem. I believe if the wobble is noticeable at first look when rolling it, you should assume it probably will affect playability. If you have to roll it several times, you think there might be a little wobble but hard to tell, it is probably acceptable.

I personally prefer to hold a cue up to my eye and sight down the length while rotating it to check for straightness. I believe I can do a better job than rolling it on a table.

I believe wobble becomes unacceptable when:

It is significant (affects playability), and can be easily resolved by a competent repairman or readily replaced (a production cue, a custom cue where a new shaft with matching ringwork can be made, etc)

If the cue/shaft cannot be readily replaced (very high dollar custom cue, well known cue maker who is dead with original shaft), then the lack of straightness is acceptable to those who want to own it, but obviously not everyone.

By the way, I define acceptable as when you buy the cue you are not going to do anything to correct it, you are going to leave it as it is. Unacceptable is when you buy the cue, and you know you are going to have it repaired or have the shaft replaced because of the wobble. As long as the cue is described honestly and fairly price compared to like cue that is straight, it is acceptable for sale.

Just my thoughts,
Kelly
 
Last edited:
Good reply, Kelly. I'm doing well and hope you are too. Getting any sleep lately? LOL
 
ScottR said:
Good reply, Kelly. I'm doing well and hope you are too. Getting any sleep lately? LOL
Click to expand...

Funny you should mention that :D didn't get a lot this morning between 3 and 7 :rolleyes:

Kelly
 
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