shaft saw machine.
- Thread starter macguy
- Start date
I'll take a guess...The half-nut is spring loaded and when it reaches the end of the lead screw it drops down (since there are no threads there). This change in height triggers a switch to turn the machine off.
If my assumption is true, why did you go this way instead of using a limit switch? If my assumption is not true, why did you use a half-nut?
Great looking machine!
If my assumption is true, why did you go this way instead of using a limit switch? If my assumption is not true, why did you use a half-nut?
Great looking machine!
Sheldon said:
Thanks for sharing the pics, they are worth a thousand words. I'll spare you the trouble of having to receive full payment
How much should a person expect to spend on all the parts?Tracy
Sheldon said:
Is the roller bearing that the taper-bar rides on, adjustable and does the rubberband have a purpose.
Thanks,
Tracy
Saw Machine
What is the benefit to a machine like this? I assume that you're still only removing around .030-.050" per cut ,then letting the shaft rest. How long does it take to to make a full pass?
I've heard a lot of cuemakers talking about these machines....is there a benefit over a lathe with a taper attachment??
Mike Pancerny
What is the benefit to a machine like this? I assume that you're still only removing around .030-.050" per cut ,then letting the shaft rest. How long does it take to to make a full pass?
I've heard a lot of cuemakers talking about these machines....is there a benefit over a lathe with a taper attachment??
Mike Pancerny
Pancerny said:
The main benefit is that it keeps your lathe from being tied up whenever you do cut-down passes on your stock and that's often. You will also get smoother cuts on the saw machine as it makes more cuts per inch of travel since a saw blade has more cutting edges touching the work-piece per revolution than a router bit. It normally takes between 6-8 minutes per pass depending on the speed setting on that "Dayton" DC motor speed controller and gearing that's showing in the picture.
An even bigger advantage than the smoothness of cut is the noise factor. It is much quiter. You can get just as smooth of a cut with a router if you slow the cut down to about 8 minutes. The saw takes about 6 minutes to give you equally as smooth of a cut so it is a little faster. The ease of use and noise reduction are it's greatest assets.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
I turn my shaft blanks on the saw machine and it is in the room with me. I turn my butts on a router tapering machine that I have in another room. I can barely hear it. That also keeps the exotic dust in the other room. The box enclosure is a great idea if you don't have much space.
Chris
Chris
Ok, I've been at a tournament all weekend so I have not had a chance to answer questions... I will try to get them all in one post.
The bearing does indeed provide the pivot, and I have no shutoff on the machine. I removed the threads on the leadscrew to make it stop before it crashes.
The spring is sinply to hold the half nut to the threads, and allow for quick dis-engagement. A limit switch might be nice, but I haven't bothered with one yet.
Myself and a good friend built 3 of them at once (they are his design) and 2 of them were for someone else. This person paid for all of the materials, and I got mine for free. At full retail prices the parts come to a little over $1000 for each.
If you are patient and can get some used aluminum and score some bearings on ebay, you might be able to get that price down a bit.
Yes, the bearing is adjustable, and the rubber band is around a micrometer handle. I had the rubber band on it, because before I changed the belt on the saw motor, the vibration from it cause it to spin when I lifted the taper bar off of the bearing. With the new belt on it, there is now no need for it. If anyone has or will have one of these things, I would HIGHLY recommend getting a link belt like these: http://www.fennerindustrial.com/applications/powertwist.html
Mainly the benefit is that it is a dedicated machine.
Also, you CAN make HUGE cuts with it. It can take a 1.5" square of maple and turn it down to under an inch with one pass.
Also, it cuts very smoothly and will make a 31" pass in under 3 minutes.
cueman said:
The bearing does indeed provide the pivot, and I have no shutoff on the machine. I removed the threads on the leadscrew to make it stop before it crashes.
iusedtoberich said:
The spring is sinply to hold the half nut to the threads, and allow for quick dis-engagement. A limit switch might be nice, but I haven't bothered with one yet.
RSB-Refugee said:Thanks for sharing the pics, they are worth a thousand words. I'll spare you the trouble of having to receive full payment
Myself and a good friend built 3 of them at once (they are his design) and 2 of them were for someone else. This person paid for all of the materials, and I got mine for free. At full retail prices the parts come to a little over $1000 for each.
If you are patient and can get some used aluminum and score some bearings on ebay, you might be able to get that price down a bit.
RSB-Refugee said:
Yes, the bearing is adjustable, and the rubber band is around a micrometer handle. I had the rubber band on it, because before I changed the belt on the saw motor, the vibration from it cause it to spin when I lifted the taper bar off of the bearing. With the new belt on it, there is now no need for it. If anyone has or will have one of these things, I would HIGHLY recommend getting a link belt like these: http://www.fennerindustrial.com/applications/powertwist.html
Pancerny said:
Mainly the benefit is that it is a dedicated machine.
Also, you CAN make HUGE cuts with it. It can take a 1.5" square of maple and turn it down to under an inch with one pass.
Also, it cuts very smoothly and will make a 31" pass in under 3 minutes.
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I can't see how this machine works 
Can one of the experts explain it to me? Or post some pics of it in action?
Thanks!
Tim.
Can one of the experts explain it to me? Or post some pics of it in action?
Thanks!
Tim.
cueman said:
Chris,
From the way I see it, tapering is done here by raising or lowering the shaft right? Since the blade is right below the shaft - Is it possible to have a mechanism that will auto adjust the height of the blade (CNC?) tp produce the taper?
I have a design for the shaft saw machine but a little different than Sheldon has. Something similar to a lathe with a carriage that moves along the shaft.
You are right the shaft raises as it runs along the bar. I designed one years ago that would have multiple saw blades cuttign multiple shafts that the taper bar would raise the blades instead of the shafts. Never got aroung to building it, just like a heavier lathe and many other projects I have not had time to do.hadjcues said:
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
timbo.hobo said:I can't see how this machine works
Can one of the experts explain it to me? Or post some pics of it in action?
Thanks!
Tim.
The whole thing pivots (as well as slides) on the bearing at the back. As it travels, the side opposite the bearing rolls along a taper bar that is adjustable.