Shaping/scuffing/burnishing a mori/Layered cue tip

christopheradam

christopheradam

Christopher Adams
Silver Member
I read the threads that Tons o fun kindly put links to in one place about cue tips but I couldn not find much information about how to properly care for a layered tip. I got a mori put on my predator sp and want to know how to properly maintain it.
Can I burnish like I do my regular non-layered tip? I usualy wet the sides and then rub the sides against a block of wood to get it hard and shiny and then scuff the top out side edges of the tip so it holds chalk.

I was told by the person who puts tips on for me (who does a great job and has been very reliable in doing all my cue repairs) that you should scuff towards the shaft i.e. dowwards not upwards like you would a regular non layered tip. Does this sound correct. From the other thread I read, Blud mentioned using 220 grit sand paper to roughen up a layered tip. Any certain technique. Also read that using a tip pik is bad because it can cause seperation. I definatly don't want to mess up this tip since its more costly than the lepros and hope to get more life out of it with less mushrooming.

Love the mori medium tip. Hits great.
 
I don't recommend frequent scuffing or shaping and here's why: frequent shaping and scuffing is the surest way to wear out a tip prematurely.

When I install a tip I burnish the sides with a piece of leather and then I apply a couple of small drops of Duro super glue to the sides and do a final burnish with paper towel. For subsequent burnishing I use a leather pad ( I find that leather does the best job).

Remember that chalk is abrasive. Just chalk up before each shot and forget about shaping scuffing.

Just my opinion.
 
I agree with SF. I've had Moori's on my dog cue for well over a year and after initially installing and shaping them, I've shaped and scuffed them... hmmmm... let me count... NEVER! Keep chalk on them and you won't have to mess with them.

Later,
Bob
 
Thanks for the information everyone, much appreciated. Makes sense that chalking should roughen up the tip since chalk is course. Never though about that.
 
Secaucus Fats said:
Remember that chalk is abrasive. Just chalk up before each shot and forget about shaping scuffing.

Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Work wonders, Chalking Before Each Shot, and at $18.00/Gross Chalk is going to last you longer, and do a fine job of Tip Shaping, compaired to a Tip Shaper that can get lost easly.... ;)
 
Bruce S. de Lis said:
Work wonders, Chalking Before Each Shot, and at $18.00/Gross Chalk is going to last you longer, and do a fine job of Tip Shaping, compaired to a Tip Shaper that can get lost easly.... ;)
Click to expand...

Tell me about it, my wife has pulled my tip pic and brad scuffer out of the washer and dryer one to many times :) They are squeeky clean though.

I always have chalked before every shot since I started playing so I am all good.
 
when i first started using Moori Med tips, i had a problem getting chalk to hold well, and was scuffing the tip often. So i asked a buddy of mine who also uses moori tips and told me to just use a tip pick before you begin to play.

So thats what i do, i just use a tip pick and really hit up the tip alot. I dont do it where i twist the pik when jabbing the tip.

and this i find works really well, to hold chalk and i havent had any layers delaminate either.

and i only scuff the tip probably once every other month. and thats just using my Ultimate tip tool nickle size, with a quick scuffing.


dave
 
christopheradam said:
I read the threads that Tons o fun kindly put links to in one place about cue tips but I couldn not find much information about how to properly care for a layered tip. I got a mori put on my predator sp and want to know how to properly maintain it.
Can I burnish like I do my regular non-layered tip? I usualy wet the sides and then rub the sides against a block of wood to get it hard and shiny and then scuff the top out side edges of the tip so it holds chalk.

I was told by the person who puts tips on for me (who does a great job and has been very reliable in doing all my cue repairs) that you should scuff towards the shaft i.e. dowwards not upwards like you would a regular non layered tip. Does this sound correct. From the other thread I read, Blud mentioned using 220 grit sand paper to roughen up a layered tip. Any certain technique. Also read that using a tip pik is bad because it can cause seperation. I definatly don't want to mess up this tip since its more costly than the lepros and hope to get more life out of it with less mushrooming.

Love the mori medium tip. Hits great.
Click to expand...

Best way to care for a moori is take a razor blade and cutt it off your shaft .lol .Just kiding I like tailsman med better they seem to be a little softer and hold chalk a lot better but that is just my 2 cents moori are realy liked a lot by a lot of people. I would get one of those half round tip shapers with the sand paper refills they cost like a buck shape or scuff your tip with that on a downward stroke and your tip should be fine,layer tips are the best no matter what one ya like. but like any tip there is always a dud some where.
 
christopheradam said:
I read the threads that Tons o fun kindly put links to in one place about cue tips but I couldn not find much information about how to properly care for a layered tip. I got a mori put on my predator sp and want to know how to properly maintain it.
Can I burnish like I do my regular non-layered tip? I usualy wet the sides and then rub the sides against a block of wood to get it hard and shiny and then scuff the top out side edges of the tip so it holds chalk.

I was told by the person who puts tips on for me (who does a great job and has been very reliable in doing all my cue repairs) that you should scuff towards the shaft i.e. dowwards not upwards like you would a regular non layered tip. Does this sound correct. From the other thread I read, Blud mentioned using 220 grit sand paper to roughen up a layered tip. Any certain technique. Also read that using a tip pik is bad because it can cause seperation. I definatly don't want to mess up this tip since its more costly than the lepros and hope to get more life out of it with less mushrooming.

Love the mori medium tip. Hits great.
Click to expand...
I have found that a moori works best for me when it is beat up a lot, when I break with it and shoot jump shots to break it in well. Otherwise it is very hard and subject to miscue. I would try not to scuff them much at all, and they will last a very long time, which to me is their biggest advantage.

unknownpro
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top