Sharpening Bits...Cuesmith Lathe

[Mike Templeton]

I bought a CueSmith lathe from Chris Hightower about 10 years ago. I have used it regualrly since then. I don't set up any longer at tournaments, only doing local work. I'd say that I install 5-10 tips and 1 ferrule per week on average.

My question is, what is the best type of bit to use to stay sharp, or to re-sharpen easily. Should I use a different bit to cut ferrules than I do to face off a ferrule to install a tip? I now use 3% cobalt steel bits 5/16 shank (maybe 1/4 shank). Just square bits that I had sharpened at a machine shop.

What is the best material (steel, carbon, etc) to use and what is the best way to keep the bits sharp?

Mike

 

[Tommy-D]

> What I use is a 3/8 standard AR type tool with the carbide tip brazed on. These will require a special wheel to grind them,so you might be better off taking them to a machine shop for sharpening. I grind them myself now,sharp as I can get them,then take a stone and gently relieve the sharpness with a stone,giving me a smoother cut and a stronger tip. I've been reluctant to try them for doing tips and ferrules,but the huge collection of machinists tools my grandfather gave me had a box of 3/8 solid carbide blanks in it,as well as 5/16 and 1/4. The HSS or Cobalt bits you are using should be fine,but do dull quickly,you might consider buying a whole box of them,have them all sharpened,and change out often. Tommy D.

 

[Fat Ivory]

I bought a CueSmith lathe from Chris Hightower about 10 years ago. I have used it regualrly since then. I don't set up any longer at tournaments, only doing local work. I'd say that I install 5-10 tips and 1 ferrule per week on average.

My question is, what is the best type of bit to use to stay sharp, or to re-sharpen easily. Should I use a different bit to cut ferrules than I do to face off a ferrule to install a tip? I now use 3% cobalt steel bits 5/16 shank (maybe 1/4 shank). Just square bits that I had sharpened at a machine shop.

What is the best material (steel, carbon, etc) to use and what is the best way to keep the bits sharp?

Mike

I'm not a cuemaker, but I do have twenty-some odd years as a prototype machinist, and do replace my own ferrules, so I'll offer this much: Synthetics used in ferrules are pretty abrasive (except for the cheap ones). For turning and facing ferrules using HSS or cobalt HSS I recommend keeping the feed rate up pretty high. This gets the tool out quicker, keeps wear down, and perhaps surprisingly, runs a bit cooler. In order to maintain a good surface finish with the higher feedrate, a slightly larger nose radius is required. Ditto for drilling the ferrule, except of course no corner radius. Remember to touch up the cutting edges by hand with a fine stone afterwards. This just takes a few seconds and is a good practice, saving trips to the grinding wheel.

 

[lamar25]

I bought a CueSmith lathe from Chris Hightower about 10 years ago. I have used it regualrly since then. I don't set up any longer at tournaments, only doing local work. I'd say that I install 5-10 tips and 1 ferrule per week on average.

My question is, what is the best type of bit to use to stay sharp, or to re-sharpen easily. Should I use a different bit to cut ferrules than I do to face off a ferrule to install a tip? I now use 3% cobalt steel bits 5/16 shank (maybe 1/4 shank). Just square bits that I had sharpened at a machine shop.

What is the best material (steel, carbon, etc) to use and what is the best way to keep the bits sharp?

Mike

Why not just ask Chris?????

 

[Mike Templeton]

Why not just ask Chris?????

I was kinda doing that through "Ask the Cue Maker" here. I know he posts here quite a bit. I'm sure I will see him at the Viking event in Atlanta in a few weeks anyway. I just thought some input from other cue makers might be usefull as well.

Mike

 

[DaveK]

My question is, what is the best type of bit to use to stay sharp, or to re-sharpen easily. Should I use a different bit to cut ferrules than I do to face off a ferrule to install a tip? I now use 3% cobalt steel bits 5/16 shank (maybe 1/4 shank). Just square bits that I had sharpened at a machine shop.

What is the best material (steel, carbon, etc) to use and what is the best way to keep the bits sharp?

Dumb question perhaps, but why not just sharpen them yourself ? A standard HSS, 3%Co, or 5%Co bit can be sharpened with a basic grinder, once you understand the angles. While I do no cuemaking I sharpen my own bits for my lathe and shaper, it's pretty simple really. There are lots of resources online to help you get started :

http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm

http://metalworking.com/DropBox/NAVY-repairmans-manual-Chapter05.pdf

Dave

 

[cueman]

If you need to bring it back sharp enough to cut tough ferrules real fast just touch up the edges with a hand diamond dust file like you touch up carbide saw blades with. If you want it like new then you will have to use a grinder. Make sure you hold the bit against the grinder in such a way as to maintain the original angles. Dip in water immediately after sharpening it. The links that you were given should show how to do that much better than I could explain with my limited typing skills.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com