slabbing Ivory

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Staff member
Moderator
Gold Member
Silver Member
I have no dog in this fight but, something needs clearing.

TW did not drag Bob's name.
He was implying so many watch DZ's videos and already think they know a lot.

Speaking of Bob, he does not wrestle with pigs.
But, he did one occasion when someone claimed his joint screw run-out was some .0002" . That's right, 2 tenths.

Is that alot? :grin-square:
 

LGSM3

Jake<built cues for fun
Silver Member
I have no dog in this fight but, something needs clearing.

TW did not drag Bob's name.
He was implying so many watch DZ's videos and already think they know a lot.

Speaking of Bob, he does not wrestle with pigs.
But, he did one occasion when someone claimed his joint screw run-out was some .0002" . That's right, 2 tenths.

Joey is correct, TW very much likes DZ and has for a while
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
Since there is question as to TW's intent, and Lord knows there should be, I won't pursue the matter further.
Given my interpretation of what was presented and in the manner it was, I felt something needed to be said.
I'll go ahead and drag the horse back to the barn now. I thought he was just sleeping. Thanx guys.

KJ
 
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FrantaB

Registered
I have seen two ways how to cut curved piece of ivory:

When the tusk piece is known as solid and clean of any cracks, then using a piece of plywood and gluing the tusk to a position that yields maximum gain-using wooden washers, wedges etc. and using another strap of plywood to clamp it down just for added chatter resistance. No lost material because of sanding.

The other method is not that cheap, but is usefull for even cracked pieces or pieces where there is suspicion for high internal stress because of drying or so.
Dissolve beewax in clean acetone and apply it several times over the tusk and buff it with a cloth realy well. You may choose not to apply on obviously solid parts, which is at times the better choice. Use wooden dovels and wedges to position the piece in a makeshift cardboard or so box, which have about 20-25% of the dia of the tusk clearance to all sides.
The tusk is then suffused by the cheapest resin used in dental replacement mfg. as a supportive and test model material. The beewax is to seal the craks and porosities, to prevent the resin from impregnating the ivory, which at times can happen. The buffing will clean the hard, even surfaces, where the resin will get enough grip.
Spray the blade with water and cut the piece in span of several days or maybe even weeks, to prevent scatter of cut pieces due to suddenly relieved stress.
If there is known crack, take the first cut along it as to get an idea how the crack is propagated and if there are inner, secondary cracks.

This is not my hands-on experience, this comes from old, damn renowned gunmaker.
 

dzcues

newbie
Silver Member
Not insulted

Thank you everyone. I appreciate your support but I didn't see Mr. Wayne's comment as disparaging in any way. Thomas has freely given me advice many times - as recently as yesterday - and should be commended for the advances in technique & innovation that he continues to bring to the cuemaking world.
That said, he does not suffer fools easily nor will he back down from an argument. I see nothing wrong with that.
 

rhinobywilhite

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have seen two ways how to cut curved piece of ivory:

When the tusk piece is known as solid and clean of any cracks, then using a piece of plywood and gluing the tusk to a position that yields maximum gain-using wooden washers, wedges etc. and using another strap of plywood to clamp it down just for added chatter resistance. No lost material because of sanding.

The other method is not that cheap, but is usefull for even cracked pieces or pieces where there is suspicion for high internal stress because of drying or so.
Dissolve beewax in clean acetone and apply it several times over the tusk and buff it with a cloth realy well. You may choose not to apply on obviously solid parts, which is at times the better choice. Use wooden dovels and wedges to position the piece in a makeshift cardboard or so box, which have about 20-25% of the dia of the tusk clearance to all sides.
The tusk is then suffused by the cheapest resin used in dental replacement mfg. as a supportive and test model material. The beewax is to seal the craks and porosities, to prevent the resin from impregnating the ivory, which at times can happen. The buffing will clean the hard, even surfaces, where the resin will get enough grip.
Spray the blade with water and cut the piece in span of several days or maybe even weeks, to prevent scatter of cut pieces due to suddenly relieved stress.
If there is known crack, take the first cut along it as to get an idea how the crack is propagated and if there are inner, secondary cracks.

This is not my hands-on experience, this comes from old, damn renowned gunmaker.

Thank you for the suggestions.
 

pescadoman

Randy
Silver Member
Thank you everyone. I appreciate your support but I didn't see Mr. Wayne's comment as disparaging in any way. Thomas has freely given me advice many times - as recently as yesterday - and should be commended for the advances in technique & innovation that he continues to bring to the cuemaking world.
That said, he does not suffer fools easily nor will he back down from an argument. I see nothing wrong with that.

Well said....
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
Thank you everyone. I appreciate your support but I didn't see Mr. Wayne's comment as disparaging in any way. Thomas has freely given me advice many times - as recently as yesterday - and should be commended for the advances in technique & innovation that he continues to bring to the cuemaking world.
That said, he does not suffer fools easily nor will he back down from an argument. I see nothing wrong with that.

Mr Dzuricky,

Thank You for removing any and all doubt. My suspicion arose from the context of the argument.
You have removed that suspicion and set the record straight. My apologies for you getting involved.
I'm sure you have better things to do than to 'wrestle with pigs'.

KJ
 

KJ Cues

Pro Cue Builder & Repair
Silver Member
I'm doing this additional post separately from my previous one to indicate that I am not speaking
to DZ directly but rather to the forum in general.
It was stated that TW doesn't suffer a fool gladly and doesn't back-down from an argument. That's all well and good.
No one should have to suffer the insults that were thrown about in an attempt to win an argument either.
Many people were insulted needlessly. That's not how you win an argument nor is it how you win friends.
I greatly respect intelligence. It might be the 2nd greatest gift next to life itself.
I can respect it all the way up to the point where it's used as a weapon/bullying tactic, then that gift is being mis-used.
I won't suffer the insults or attacks from someone who believes that intelligence is theirs alone.
Street wisdom will tell you that there's always a faster gun. Eventually, everyone will meet their match.

KJ
 
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