Slate Question

Brickman

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Have any of you guys ever had a table were you can very very slightly feel the slate joints and even feel the balls going across them a little bit? I am a little on the autistic side when I notice something like this and its driving me insane , but I have had it worked on and still its the same thing. Am I just being to "; perfect " or is a little bit of a gap ok. What is the accepted norm, or how much is allowed?
At one time it even affected my shots but not since I had it fixed . Should I replace the slate or just quit being so picky, since it doesnt really affect me any more.....and O yea its an Old table .....maybe 30 years , its an old 8 ft Gandy.

Any help would be great. And thanks in Advance
 

Side Pocket Kid

Poolhall Junkie
Silver Member
I tore the felt off a table just to get a better look.. It drives me insane too... i've gotten to the point were im so paraniod or so, i replaced it.
 

Ronoh

1 brick at a time
Silver Member
You're not being picky. If you own this table that your speaking of, get if fixed ASAP. As the table is, it'll teach you bad habits. It'll throw your LOS (line of sight) off, cause you'll inherently learn to compensate for the "jump" of the ball over the uneven slate just to make a slow straight shot. Else, you'll just start blasting balls to the hole to keep it in line.

I'm not sure how much it's going to cost you to get it fixed, but a 30 year old table should not have done that unless it was in a very wet basement, and the wood swelled to cause the seperation.

I'd probably shim the ends of the table (if the slate is pegless) to get the slate to match up properly.

If the slate is pegged, check to make sure you don't have the slates swapped (you may have the foot slate on the head end, and vica versa). If that's not the case, then tear the table down and reseat it. Use the best wood filler you can find to fill all the peg holes (follow their direction as far as how long it needs to set and in what environment). Find the center lines (side pocket to side pocket, center short rail to center short rail. USE HELP and set the slate(s) (with pegs in place to set indentation marks in the wood) and use something to redrill the holes PRECISELY (plumb) to reset your slates to butt up flush.

All this work maybe only a temporary fix. Just depends how bad the table has bowed. Wether it's been bowed by an uneven floor surface, or moisture for a long period of time (or both), it won't be an easy fix.

I wish you luck on this endever, but I feel that your table will have to be sent back to have the core reflushed to correct this the problem. Even with the redrill, the rest of the surface area that the slate rests on may not be level.
 

Pizza Bob

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Brickman said:
Have any of you guys ever had a table were you can very very slightly feel the slate joints and even feel the balls going across them a little bit? I am a little on the autistic side when I notice something like this and its driving me insane

I'm hoping you mean anal, not autistic - two very different maladies. Regardless, get it fixed. The Behrman's recommend the use of "Liquid Dowels" between unpinned slates to prevent "popping". Don't have any details about where to find it, but I'm sure one of the table mechanics on here could advise. All kinds of pros and cons about seam sealers. The most common are beeswax, plaster of paris and bondo. IMHO, bondo is too permanent and requires sanding the slate and sealer - not good. Beeswax is too subject to temperature changes and not hard enough - my table was done with PofP and has survived slight moves and huge humidity changes (broken water pipe) unscathed. Good luck with your table.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 

Shorty

A banger at best...
Silver Member
I think you should call a lawyer and sue whoever put that faulty table in your house!

*smirk*

Shorty
 

Snapshot9

son of 3 leg 1 eye dog ..
Silver Member
2 things to check ...

Check the supports for the slate (misalignment).
and check the end cut on the slate where the pieces
are butted up against each other (90 degree angle).
If the end cuts are off 1 degree, it will result in a less
than perfect fit butted up together.
 
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