Sleeved Ivory Joints

staygoldponyboy

staygoldponyboy

Petree Sneaky Pete
Silver Member
I was wondering what the characteristics of flatfaced sleeved Ivory joints (i.e. hit, feel, durability) versus the characteristics of a solid Ivory joint. I own a solid flatfaced Ivory jointed cue 3/8 10 pin and am curious what the differences are. Any help will be much appreciated Az'ers. Thanks.
 
I've owned both and noticed no real difference in feel of hit. Although I like them both, I actually prefer the sleeve with black phenolic between the wood and ivory (the way Jim Buss does it). I've played with both for years at a time. Never had a cracked ivory anything.

Martin


ILLINOY said:
I was wondering what the characteristics of flatfaced sleeved Ivory joints (i.e. hit, feel, durability) versus the characteristics of a solid Ivory joint. I own a solid flatfaced Ivory jointed cue 3/8 10 pin and am curious what the differences are. Any help will be much appreciated Az'ers. Thanks.
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Ivory Joints

I personally LOVE the look/hit of ivory joints. But I prefer to have more of a "full " ivory joint, whether it be flat faced or piloted. Everyone is different so this is more of a subjective opinion. A thin sleeved ivory collar over phenolic is more of an esthetic joint for someone who wants the look of an ivory joint. Some cuemakers feel that the sleeve is stronger and will be less prone to cracking.

I have two cues that are identical other than one having an full ivory joint and one having a SS joint. Same shaft taper.....very different hit. Feedback is different, and sound is different. Which is better?? I dunno? I don't think there is a better.....just different.

Whatever you do, DON'T break with your expensive ivory jointed cue. Unless you like spending $200+ to get it replaced :eek:
 
skchengdds said:
I have two cues that are identical other than one having an full ivory joint and one having a SS joint. Same shaft taper.....very different hit. Feedback is different, and sound is different. Which is better?? I dunno? I don't think there is a better.....just different.

QUOTE]

It sure is refreshing to know, someone actually gets it.
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Thank you for your input guys, anyone else that can lend some more info would be greatly appreciated so chime on in!
 
ivory joints

ILLINOY said:
Thank you for your input guys, anyone else that can lend some more info would be greatly appreciated so chime on in!
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I make my ivory joints 5/8" long. I build the cue, then install the joint pin, with 1-3/4" of it sticking out of the cue, then I take the ivory joint, drill it grind the threads, cut a reliefe on both faces, screw it down with west systems, [ leaving 1/1/8" out of the face of the ivory], machine of next day, sand, paint, collect the cash about two weeks later..Never had one break, or crack.

I use my collet lathe to hold on to the ivory slug, as so it won't crack when drilling, I step drill it 3 times, to insure I cause no internal cracks.....then grind the threads.....works for me.
blud
 
blud said:
I make my ivory joints 5/8" long. I build the cue, then install the joint pin, with 1-3/4" of it sticking out of the cue, then I take the ivory joint, drill it grind the threads, cut a reliefe on both faces, screw it down with west systems, [ leaving 1/1/8" out of the face of the ivory], machine of next day, sand, paint, collect the cash about two weeks later..Never had one break, or crack.

I use my collet lathe to hold on to the ivory slug, as so it won't crack when drilling, I step drill it 3 times, to insure I cause no internal cracks.....then grind the threads.....works for me.
blud
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Solid joint with no tenon, INTERESTING!
 
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