Slight clicking noise on hit..inconsistent

StuartTKelley

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a custom sneaky that hits great and sounds great. Had it for only about two months, was new. 3/8X10 wood to wood... When I screw it together I have to give it an extra turn to get it completely tight which requires some torque. If I don't do this it obviously doesn't hit or play correctly. I have to really turn it hard to get it loose too. I noticed a slight click here and there when hitting a ball harder than usual for a long draw or power follow. Doesn't do it every time though. Aegis ferrule, and Le Pro tip. I don't use this cue to break with. I don;t think it would have a crack in the ferrule. I checked the weight bolt and it's tight.

Could it be the le pro? I'm tempted to have the ferrule and tip replaced when my new shaft arrives.

Any suggestions for preventing this need to torque it to get it completely tight? This might be causing the noise but I don't know. As I said, it's not every single time. Vaseline on the pin ? is this a good trick to try?

Thanks for your input in advance!
 
Like Chris mentioned, the click could be a tip issue.

As far as the joint, it shouldn't require that "extra turn". Have a qualified person check the facings and indicate the pin.

I have a question when you say "indicate the pin", what do you mean by that?


Joe
 
Could also be the ferrule

Likely a partially unglued tip causing the click

I've had customers that like to leave their cues in the trunk of the car. The heat can degrade the glue on the tip and/or ferrule. The result is a slight clicking noise.
 
Checking the pin for run-out with a dial indicator after the cue has been chucked up at the joint and is running true in a lathe.

If the pin has significant run-out, then it's not aligned with the cue's axis, and probably not perpendicular with the joint face. When the shaft goes on, it wants to align with the pin which is off. In this situation, the joint faces don't come together parallel. One side of the face will make contact before the other, and then extra effort is required the get the faces seat flat.

EDIT: for the joint issue, I'd also like to add that the bore in the shaft is suspect to. If it's not on axis or if the tap walked when it was threaded, it would create similar issues.

Although a tip not completely glued on properly can make this noise, in this case, I agree that the joint is the issue. Either the pin is not in straight or the shaft is bored incorrectly, or, the shaft face has been shaved on one side so that the shaft can be pulled into alignment so as to make the cue roll straighter. At present, when the cue is not tightly assembled the shaft and butt are acting like a pair of cymbals.

Dick
 
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