Is snake wood to brittle to make a complete forearm out of it..
Snake wood....
- Thread starter Mowem down
- Start date
Very brittle.
Very few have pulled it off.
One option is to use multiple pieces and laminate it on to a maple core milling each side flat. I wanted to do one once but settled on quilted sapel instead. Still got the look I was after.
Considering the cost of snakewood it can be an expensive failiure, the "panel method" Mr. Webb mentions is probably the safest way and also the most cost effective. An accurate tablesaw or a CNC machine is key as you want those panels to match up perfectly.
I don't know if "brittle" is the correct term.
For instance, to me, ebony would be much more brittle than snakewood, and it is often used for butts and forearms, including by me.
However, (and again, compared with ebony) snakewood is somewhat more unstable and prone to cracking just from sitting around. Like ebony will do if it is not dry. A piece you thought was straight might warp (& also crack) sometime later in life. But snakewood is one tough, hard material.
If you wanted to spend that size chunk of wood in an experiment, I think i still would core it with something not too dense; both to remove internal stress in the snakewood to reduce cracking, and to give some hope for straightness stability. Or you could try a solid piece and report.
For instance, to me, ebony would be much more brittle than snakewood, and it is often used for butts and forearms, including by me.
However, (and again, compared with ebony) snakewood is somewhat more unstable and prone to cracking just from sitting around. Like ebony will do if it is not dry. A piece you thought was straight might warp (& also crack) sometime later in life. But snakewood is one tough, hard material.
If you wanted to spend that size chunk of wood in an experiment, I think i still would core it with something not too dense; both to remove internal stress in the snakewood to reduce cracking, and to give some hope for straightness stability. Or you could try a solid piece and report.
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It must be cored for weight and stability.
It is more fickle to use as a forearm or handle than working with a tusk.
My general plan of attack has always been....
Turn round...let sit for 3-5 yrs and inspect.
Poke coring hole thru smaller (DO NOT allow the drill to heat up) than your final core...let sit for 3-5 yrs and inspect.
Bore to final core size....making sure core is snug but not tight. You will need to bore the core larger than you would for other woods.
Insert core without glue and let it sit for 3-5 yrs occasionally checking for cracks and removing the core to inspect for the core fit.
At any point if you see any checks or cracks you are probably screwed with said piece and may need to start over with a new one.
I usually work multiple pieces to ensure one will be available for the cue.
Glue core in place and say a prayer before installing into a cue butt.
YMMV
It is more fickle to use as a forearm or handle than working with a tusk.
My general plan of attack has always been....
Turn round...let sit for 3-5 yrs and inspect.
Poke coring hole thru smaller (DO NOT allow the drill to heat up) than your final core...let sit for 3-5 yrs and inspect.
Bore to final core size....making sure core is snug but not tight. You will need to bore the core larger than you would for other woods.
Insert core without glue and let it sit for 3-5 yrs occasionally checking for cracks and removing the core to inspect for the core fit.
At any point if you see any checks or cracks you are probably screwed with said piece and may need to start over with a new one.
I usually work multiple pieces to ensure one will be available for the cue.
Glue core in place and say a prayer before installing into a cue butt.
YMMV
You can also get it professionally stabilized....Kand G out of arizona...will stabilize snakewood for you. http://www.kandgstabilizing.com/
Call them and talk with them, they will explain what they do.
Call them and talk with them, they will explain what they do.
Thanks for the info. I had come across this web in the past but I'm not a huge fan of impregnated woods for cues so I never have used them.
I did have a look at what woods they will not except for processing and ironwood is listed on their no go list.
A quick look and snakewood and ironwood are almost identical in density and hardness so I'm not sure how that would work.
I have talked with other wood impregnators and have been told snakewood is a no go as it is too dense and just will not accept any material at any pressure. K and G may have a different material and/or process, not sure.
That is interesting.
A luthier friend gave me some very nicely figured snakewood a while back, but it also includes 3 or 4 boxed hearts. Cracked on 2 or 3 sides of course. But that could give a nice effect filled with dyed stabilizing polymer. They are big enough for forearms. Maybe even 2 forearms each if not FS.
Thank you for the resource.
smt
A luthier friend gave me some very nicely figured snakewood a while back, but it also includes 3 or 4 boxed hearts. Cracked on 2 or 3 sides of course. But that could give a nice effect filled with dyed stabilizing polymer. They are big enough for forearms. Maybe even 2 forearms each if not FS.
Thank you for the resource.
smt
Definitely, prayers before, slow and steady, and thank you prayer after each time you or machine touches it.
I remember Dickie neighbors made a full butt out of snakewood, it came back right away, Dickie was good about it, he remade the cue. I'm not sure if he remade it out of snakewod, but i do know it costs him his time and materials
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
Snakewood is out for me Dave. Once I had an abundance but lately I'm running short on my stash of 3-5 years.
SnakeWood like Ivory has it down sides.
I always try a new wood in a pen to see how it cuts, shapes, finishes, and stays stable.
SnakeWood is hard, brittle, finishes beautifully smooth, has good contrast and detail.
But the stuff I had tended to crack over time.
I always try a new wood in a pen to see how it cuts, shapes, finishes, and stays stable.
SnakeWood is hard, brittle, finishes beautifully smooth, has good contrast and detail.
But the stuff I had tended to crack over time.
Just came across this thread and was also recently at Dishaw's shop picking up a cue where I seen Dan's player. Believe he made it for himself in the early 00's, the forearm and butt sleeve are snakewood with gold/ivory/turquoise rings and leather wrap. Its a beautiful cue!
Thought I had a better picture but the only one I could find was this...its the middle cue!
Thought I had a better picture but the only one I could find was this...its the middle cue!
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I've seen quite a few of Dan's cues and a few of his guitars, nothing but perfection