Some material to woodwork questions

arknova

arknova

Me like Pool. Mhmm
Silver Member
Hi,

I've a couple of questions regarding hit of cue relating to its materials and stuff. Hope you guys can help!


Ferrule
1) What's the difference between an ivory ferrule and the usual mircata? (perhaps describe in the form of hit)

2) I do see that some people store their ferrules until it's aged before they put it to use. Does the aging process help in any way to stiffen the hit?

3) These days I do see some people constructing ferruleless shafts. A ferrule is suppose to help the transfer of energy from the stick to the CB right? So if it's ferruleless, shouldn't it affect the playability rather than help it?

Shaft
1) Why is the hit of an old growth maple shaft > hard rock maple > normal maple?

2) How does a conical shaped taper differ in hit as a regular pro taper?

Joint
1) I heard that SS joint will hit stiffer than that of a phenolic joint but a phenolic joint tends to produce more English (due to the fact that its joint material is softer, hence bends more during hit and the longer the contact, the more english is produced as a result). Is this true?

2) How does big pin (Radial, ( 3-8/10, 3-8/9)) cues differ from small pins (5/16x14) ? Why do people prefer big pin cues?

3) How does a SS to wood joint differ from SS to SS joint / SS to Brass joint? (Hit, construction etc)

Butt
1) How is a cue really half-spliced and full-spliced? What can the result be between these two splicings in terms of hit?

2) I don't really know where to put this but what constitutes a positive and a negative feedback when you perform a shot? I have a rough idea what a positive feedback is but I really want to hear it from the pros.


Weight (This section probably will be heavily debated)
1) How does a heavier play cue really perform as that to a lighter cue? (E.g 1) Does a heavier cue ensures a more stable stroke because the weight reduces the odds of swaying? (E.g 2) Does a heavier cue produce a better stroke because there's more strength delivered to the CB or a lighter cue because you can stroke faster?

2) Does a heavier/ lighter break cue perform better?

3) How do balance points affect the way you play with the cue? (I.e. Say that rear-weighted vs front weighted cues vs middle balanced cues)


Really appreciate it if someone can answer these qns. :thumbup:

Thanks,
Clarence
 
All of your questions have been discussed at length on this forum. Try using the search function on each issue. You will get lots of information, most of it will be subjective.

good luck

Kim
 
arknova said:
Hi,

I've a couple of questions regarding hit of cue relating to its materials and stuff. Hope you guys can help!


Ferrule
1) What's the difference between an ivory ferrule and the usual mircata? (perhaps describe in the form of hit)

2) I do see that some people store their ferrules until it's aged before they put it to use. Does the aging process help in any way to stiffen the hit?

3) These days I do see some people constructing ferruleless shafts. A ferrule is suppose to help the transfer of energy from the stick to the CB right? So if it's ferruleless, shouldn't it affect the playability rather than help it?

Shaft
1) Why is the hit of an old growth maple shaft > hard rock maple > normal maple?

2) How does a conical shaped taper differ in hit as a regular pro taper?

Joint
1) I heard that SS joint will hit stiffer than that of a phenolic joint but a phenolic joint tends to produce more English (due to the fact that its joint material is softer, hence bends more during hit and the longer the contact, the more english is produced as a result). Is this true?

2) How does big pin (Radial, ( 3-8/10, 3-8/9)) cues differ from small pins (5/16x14) ? Why do people prefer big pin cues?

3) How does a SS to wood joint differ from SS to SS joint / SS to Brass joint? (Hit, construction etc)

Butt
1) How is a cue really half-spliced and full-spliced? What can the result be between these two splicings in terms of hit?

2) I don't really know where to put this but what constitutes a positive and a negative feedback when you perform a shot? I have a rough idea what a positive feedback is but I really want to hear it from the pros.


Weight (This section probably will be heavily debated)
1) How does a heavier play cue really perform as that to a lighter cue? (E.g 1) Does a heavier cue ensures a more stable stroke because the weight reduces the odds of swaying? (E.g 2) Does a heavier cue produce a better stroke because there's more strength delivered to the CB or a lighter cue because you can stroke faster?

2) Does a heavier/ lighter break cue perform better?

3) How do balance points affect the way you play with the cue? (I.e. Say that rear-weighted vs front weighted cues vs middle balanced cues)


Really appreciate it if someone can answer these qns. :thumbup:

Thanks,
Clarence
Click to expand...

I'll answer what I feel I am qualified to answer. Some is opinion. Some are educated guesses. Take it for what it's worth.
-Aging ferrules is primarily for ivory. Synthetics don't require it.
-Ferrules keep the wood from mushrooming. Its position just behind the tip makes it an integral part in how the impact is felt. In my opinion, ferrule or no ferrule is only a change in feel, not playability. It could effect deflection, but concerning spin; I just don't see it.
-Hard Rock Maple (sugar maple) is harder than the soft species of maple (red, silver, big leaf, striped). Therefore it will give a firmer feel.
-A conical taper has much less flex, therefore it will feel firmer upon impact because there is less energy lost to shaft flex.
-The cueball has no idea what kind of joint your cue has, if you're bending your wrist, or even looking at it. The math that figures how much spin you're going to get for a certain hit on the ball has no slot for joint construction. Joint type is feel and preference. Time of contact has nothing to do with spin. If you could get the tip to stay in contact for 5 seconds, would you get more spin? NO, because the cue would be sliding in order to keep contact. That's only a stop shot. It is eccentric impacts that cause spin.
-pin choice is often made depending on machining difficulties. Some pins are just easier to install and maintain quality. Pins that are actually designed to take torque are not as easy to install straight.
-splicing has been heavily discussed recently.
-playing cue weight is being discussed now.
-lighter break cues perform better due to higher cue stick speeds.
-balance is player preference
 
Hi Kim,

Thanks for the reference but I figured it will be much easier for me and everyone to somehow compile all these information and summarize it in 1 thread. Kinda makes things easier if you know what I mean :wink:

Hope there's someone out there that's willing to help and do that!

Thanks,
Clarence
 
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