Speed Control

T

tonythetiger583

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So, I've notice while at the table, that when I hit the CB about a half tip above center, that is the tip placement that coincides best with the cue ball rolling the distance that I expect it to roll. I seem to get the best speed control by doing this. Working with that as a baseline, I guessed that if I want the cueball to still roll the same distance I think it will, the higher I hit the CB, the softer I need to hit it, and harder for more draw type shots.

Am I on the right track?, and is there any more in depth literature? Is this an okay approach, and what factors do I need to be aware of? Also how does sidespin effect the equation?

Does anyone else have this approach, or a better way?
 
It sounds like you're using top spin as a baseline to predict your cue ball control. I would suggest that you change your approach and use the stop shot to establish a baseline.

The stop shot requires the necessary finesse to calculate speed and spin relative to distance.

Based on the distance between the cue ball and the object ball a proper balance of speed and spin will dictated the outcome. This is also necessary when calculating the angle the cue ball will carom off the object ball when playing angled shots.

Once you master the stop shot (Speed relative to spin) it will be much easier to calculate how much higher or lower you should connect with the cue ball to accurately predict the degree of follow or draw when calculating your position.
 
tonythetiger583 said:
So, I've notice while at the table, that when I hit the CB about a half tip above center, that is the tip placement that coincides best with the cue ball rolling the distance that I expect it to roll. I seem to get the best speed control by doing this. Working with that as a baseline, I guessed that if I want the cueball to still roll the same distance I think it will, the higher I hit the CB, the softer I need to hit it, and harder for more draw type shots.

Am I on the right track?, and is there any more in depth literature? Is this an okay approach, and what factors do I need to be aware of? Also how does sidespin effect the equation?

Does anyone else have this approach, or a better way?
Click to expand...
If the CB is rolling naturally when it hits the OB, then the distance it travels afterward is purely the result of how fast it was going at contact.

You can make the CB roll naturally immediately by hitting it at least 80% of maximum above center (about 40% from center to top). But if you hit it below that it will slide some before starting to roll, which means you have to estimate whether (and how much) it will be rolling when it hits the OB.

So the easiest way to play follow shape is to be sure the CB is rolling naturally immediately and just learn how fast = what follow distance.

A rule of thumb that might help for straight in shots: for a pocket speed shot (OB just barely drops) with the CB rolling naturally, the CB will follow the OB about 1/6 the distance to the pocket.

pj
chgo
 
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tonythetiger583 said:
So, I've notice while at the table, that when I hit the CB about a half tip above center, that is the tip placement that coincides best with the cue ball rolling the distance that I expect it to roll. I seem to get the best speed control by doing this. Working with that as a baseline, I guessed that if I want the cueball to still roll the same distance I think it will, the higher I hit the CB, the softer I need to hit it, and harder for more draw type shots.

Am I on the right track?, and is there any more in depth literature? Is this an okay approach, and what factors do I need to be aware of? Also how does sidespin effect the equation?

Does anyone else have this approach, or a better way?
Click to expand...

Yes, you're on the right track. Spin players do tend to hit the ball softer than players who play close to the center. One of the reasons they prefer to shoot with more spin than force is to maximize ball-pocketing percentages.

For example: Set up a stop shot with 4 feet between the cb and ob. Shoot it with center ball or a half-tip below center and try to get the cb to stop. Then set up the same shot and shoot it 2 tips below center. You will find that you can stop the cue ball with a lot less force.

With side spin, things do get a little more complicated. You will have to account for cue ball squirt and then the swerve back. I think our physics experts here can help you with the details on that --- particularly how much to account for regarding speed, amount of spin applied, and angle of attack.
 
Add to your calculations cloth distance between cue ball and object ball. A stop shot from one foot out is not a stop shot when struck at the same speed and spot on the vertical axis from two feet out.

So--not to be a pedant--and what Fran is saying about being the same four feet out with each shot is my point--know the three controls without english 1) the vertical axis, 2) the speed of the stroke/shot and 3) the distance on the cloth which wears away draw and skid and eventually makes for natural overspin (rolling) and try to change only one of those three variables for each practice mini-session.

Master speed A spin A distance A then change only one of the three and teach yourself...
 
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